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Thread: Noob in need of help upgrading crappy RGY unit

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Frederick, Maryland USA
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    Default Noob in need of help upgrading crappy RGY unit

    All...first I want to say how thrilled I am to find others with the same addiction. Mine exploded with my recent unemployment...lots of time to tinker..but not so much cash. I have a P.O.S. Shinp CL-16RGY which is next to worthless. Looking for guidance on turning it into something better. Planning on using this lesson to help me undertake a full build next...after I find a new job

    All help much appreiciated!

    F7

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Athens, Greece
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    Default

    could you post a few pics of the internals and some dimensions?
    it would help others understand

    it would also help if you told us how much you could spend at this time for parts


    however, many times what seems costlier now, is proved cheaper in the long run. so maybe it would be better to scrap this unit, keep any usefull parts and start planning ahead for a full colour rgb on a proper baseplate spacious enough, even if you only put one colour and cheap galvos on it for the time being
    Last edited by LaNeK779; 11-30-2011 at 01:00.
    "its called character briggs..."

  3. #3
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    Blue is cheap enough to add if you self build and have room.

    What's more you could transfer any blue you made to any subsequent projector.

    Can't advise you myself, but there are many on here who can tell you how to build a blue module and some even sell mounts and kits.

  4. #4
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    Frederick, Maryland USA
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    Default

    Wow..that was quick. I had no idea help would arrive so soon...so i guess i'm a bit unprepared, but thank you! I'll attach some pictures shortly.

    I think for this unit, I'd like to convert it into a simple 100mW green...or a better quality RGY. All of the gobos and even the test "+" pattern are wavy lines. The only straight lines it produces are when it does horiz or vert line beams. I'd like to keep costs to a minimum for the time being...but rest assured, I'll be right back at it to get my RGB done.

    Back in a bit...and thanks!

    T7

  5. #5
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    well, seems like your galvo motors have some "issues" (if they are galvos and not simple stepper motors)
    would something like this be too expensive? http://shop.spacelas.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=242

    in any case, let's wait for the pics
    "its called character briggs..."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Frederick, Maryland USA
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    Default

    They are def steppers...and BAD ones at that. When talking with the company...we determined that it must have been badly abused by the shipping company. DMX channels dont work, one of those huge mirrors was broken off and running around loose in the cabinet, colors mix when they shouldnt; their supposed to be sending new mirrors and a new chip. I did my best to re-glue in the horiz mirror and align the beams, but its just crappy. Your link didn't work but to answer your question, i'd like to keep this as cheap as possible while still making it better. Maybe a couple of hundred bucks if at all possible but i know how these things work...once you dive in, its hard not to go for the next best, more expensive option.

    Here are the pics...dont laugh :-)


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    This should be fun...can I ask you advise on a unit i may purchase from Megalase?

    You have no idea how much i appreiciate this...thak you.

    Best

    F7

  7. #7
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    Nov 2011
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    Frederick, Maryland USA
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    Default

    Got the link to work...i'd love 30kpps...but rather wait for the RGB for that. I think a 20kpps with 100mW of green as a single...or...upgrade the red too and keep it as RGY. I'll listen to your advice on all accounts.

  8. #8
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    Upgrading the red could be the only cheap part. get an LPC 826 for like 12-15 usd, get an optima lens for red for another 18 usd, a diode mount and a lens barrel and you are good to go

    from what i see however, i would suggest not to touch the lasers, leave them as they are for the time being and invest some money towards galvos. then you can start saving for a dac and software and then you can start the quest for full colour and more power. power is insignificant to begin with.

    just my 2c
    "its called character briggs..."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Frederick, Maryland USA
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    Okay...makes sence.

    Is the power supply the same for all diodes...can you just plug and play? I doubt it. The galvos get their info (gobo shape, etc) from the other board or chip, correct. Can I change out the programming too? New chip or board? I know im probably not making any sence...a bit clueless.

    Where would I go for step by step instruction for these mods (galvos & diode replacement)...youtube? a book? I know I cant be walked through it here...that would be a lot to ask of anyone.

    Thanks for all your help.

    F7

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Churchill(hour S from Houston)
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    Default

    Although Shinp is one of the better of the cheap china sellers- that money spent on it could have been better used on parts.

    IIRC some china PJ makers save money but not having any QC- none- they slap them together and ship them out as-is.
    I guess the thinking is that the customer will do the QC. and its cheaper that way- not caring at all about thier rep. and you in most cases have to pay the return shippoing on bad units and maybe only to get a replacement no better than the one you returned.(remember NO QC)

    There is a thread on upgrading these type of PJ someplace at one of the laser forums- IIRC it had a lot of helpful tips and pics. Try doing a serch.. GL.

    ps nice to see you here--WELCOME from Hak(something about your avatar is familiar but I cant put my finger on it??)

    and...
    if you want to buy a used scanset do it from one of the members of the laser forums- better results every time IMO
    Posting a WTB thread is a smart move.

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