Here are some pics of the S-RGB4500 I got. Real product review in a few days. A note about this build it was built in the larger "BOX-G" type. http://shup.com/~picasso/lasers/S-RGB4500/
Here are some pics of the S-RGB4500 I got. Real product review in a few days. A note about this build it was built in the larger "BOX-G" type. http://shup.com/~picasso/lasers/S-RGB4500/
I have back to back Christmas office parties this week, so no chance to assemble, yet.
Same here by the looks, lucky I have good stocks of metric fasteners.2) There don't seem to be any countersunk screws for mounting the baseplate to the standoffs. The hardware is very complete, but these are a notable omission. Of course they can be sourced locally, but it would be nice to have them included when you order a baseplate too.
Ditto. I'd appreciate a photo of how you mounted the handle to the case.3) With the winged adjuster bolts fitted to the yoke endplates, it doesn't fit in the flightcase (too wide). I'll be replacing mine with thinner thumb screws, but it would be a pain to have to remove them after every gig.
Yeah, I received just one. I have a pair with my DMX cards, so you can have mine if you need it.4) I (as it appears Wayne does) have a single DMX address switch block included. Not sure if I got it as an 'extra' or I'm missing one, but something to sort out either way.
Hmmm. Will have to order some feet in!5) There are 4 small holes in the base cover, presumably for rubber feet, but no feet are supplied. Given how comprehensive the hardware kit is, I would kinda assume these would be included.
Agreed. These keyswitches look like they will fall apart on the first turn!6) The keyswitches are not compliant and very poor quality. Mine will be going straight in the bin. For the sake of a few $ it might be worth supplying some decent ones that people can use.
Yeah!Other than that, I'm very happy, finish is good, cases are great, although as Wayne said, they do write on the extrusion in black marker (which I've been at with white spirit and lighter fuel and still can't shift!). Winni, please don't write all over the lovely cases in permanent marker!
TIP: Use steel wool to remove the markings.
This space for rent.
HI Wayne, no opportunity to take pics, but the yoke fixing is pretty straightforward.
The case end plates are threaded, so you use the Allen/hex bolt in the pivot hole of the yoke end plate, and the winged adjuster bolt/thumb screw in the slotted hole of the yoke end plate. No need for nuts. You then pinch up the hex bolt 'just' enough, and use the winged bolt to set the angle, before clamping it up tight.
In my experience, these work best if you can get some thin rubber washers between the case and yoke.
Frikkin Lasers
http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk
You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?
I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.
For the pen on the alu - IPA won't shift the last stain. Use Lynx (Yes, the deo spray - the green one works best) Got it right off even the stuff in the grain of the alu. Sounds nuts, but give it a try, you'll see... God knows what it does to your skin if its this effective on black marker..
Antiperspirant or the normal one?
Frikkin Lasers
http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk
You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?
I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.
That'd be because LYNX/AXE is mostly alcohol based... Hence it burnd so well when you light it
(Don't ask how I know this!)
@Norty Either should do, but the anti-perspiration one has talk in it so might leave a white powdery residue when it dries. Though this might be useful as a mild abrasive agent to shift the marker???
If in doubt... Give it a clout?
I've got loads of Lynx in my drawer as a couple of years ago my armpits decided they didn't like the alcohol. Perhaps I need to move it to the 'cleaning products' shelf in the garage.
BTW, Winni has contacted me and said acetone will shift it.
Frikkin Lasers
http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk
You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?
I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.
I've used africa, it was not as effective as the green one - I'll check on the type when i get home. Just the normal one though
I'd tried everything to solve this problem. Even an acidic based alu cleaner. But a bit of lynx , right off, nothing left.
Strange conversation :-)
brake cleaner usually removes black marker to.
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