Epoxy and optics

[planters]

I have a number of surplus optics that have been installed in some nice Newport mounts(not looking to destroy the mounts). These mirrors have been secured both with the set screws and with epoxy (I'm guessing) adhesive in little blobs around the circumference of these mirrors and sometimes nearly encircling them. Any suggestion on how to separate these components and remove the material from the surfaces?

[swamidog]

often you can break down epoxy by baking the optics in a toaster oven. i usually do 200-250F at 10-15 minutes.

I have a number of surplus optics that have been installed in some nice Newport mounts(not looking to destroy the mounts). These mirrors have been secured both with the set screws and with epoxy (I'm guessing) adhesive in little blobs around the circumference of these mirrors and sometimes nearly encircling them. Any suggestion on how to separate these components and remove the material from the surfaces?

[steve-o]

I've used a sharpened small flat-head screwdriver and a "tapper" like a very small hammer or implement to gently "chisel" into the epoxy, taking away very small pieces at a time, being careful to stay parallel and not pit/dent/crack the surfaces. Have had reasonable luck except for one melles griot prism-pair which they must have glued on with unobtanium molecular cement. An identical mg pair came off quite easily. They must have changed the glue type between the 2. Those prisms have minor chips now :] (but still usable) .. Good luck !

[GoolGaul]

often you can break down epoxy by baking the optics in a toaster oven. i usually do 200-250F at 10-15 minutes.

Thanks for the tip!

I had been wondering how to do this too. I got one of the assortments you'll find on fleabay, 10 pcs various mounts with mirrors/filters epoxied on, for $25. Not a bad deal, I guess.

[norty303]

Heat the mount gently with a blowtorch (holding it with mole grips or pliers if you don't want to stick to it yourself), when the epoxy starts smelling a bit, pop it out with a screwdriver. Leaves it virtually clean too. I developed that for removing FS mirrors from 3 axis mounts

[planters]

Well it worked!
The mount/mirror went into an oven at 150C for 25 min and with mitts the mirror easily separated from the metal. The small residual on the mount came away with very little pressure from a razor and the residual on the mirror edge was swabbed with methylene chloride gel (stripper) and 10 min later both wiped with acetone and are spotless.
Thanks

[LaNeK779]

anyone had some sort of luck removing "JB Weld kwik" ?

do these general rules here apply?

product info page states

"Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?

A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold."

and it don't look too good to me...

the optic in question is the tiny 2mm lens from dave

[buffo]

In cases where I needed to re-use the optic, I've been able to defeat JB-Kwik with a very sharp X-acto blade and a lot of patience. I've had less success with the longer-curing JB-Weld (because it's much stronger), but sometimes the X-acto knife still works with that stuff too. (Other times I ended up breaking the mirror or dichro.)

If you don't need to save the optic, and are just looking to remove it from the mount, go ahead and force it with a pair of pliers. If it breaks, you can use your dremel tool to grind off the remnants. (Use one of the fiberglass-reinforced oxide cut-off wheels.)

Adam

[LaNeK779]

that's the tough part. the optic has to be re-used... and it is tiny

thanks for the tip adam

[CDBEAM]

Hey Chris...I assume the 2mm Colli is in the brass threaded holder from Dave. If you have a lathe ( Even a drill press and file will do ).. You could machine the brass away from the lens...machining almost all the material away....and for the last few 100ths of a mm.......in a very delicate fashion....using a very small V shape file..and file a grove into the remaining band/material. Do that same file action in 3 or 4 areas around the remaining material perimeter. Eventually... the lens should " Hatch" out from its entombment. Just a thought. BEAM....


Added thought...I do not know if the above procedure will work....I have never tried it ???? !!! But it might ??? Have a cloth under your operation....for the machining vibrations would help the process along....and you would need to catch the 2mm lens....should it suddenly fall from its surround !! Although swarf and precision optics don't mix well....any removal technique may prove challenging !! Heating the glass up to 600F could cause it to crack ??? I would think if you do heat it up....work on it as hot as possible.....and cool it SLOW !!!