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Thread: Mitsi g71 quad

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity View Post
    One is faster than the other two, but most of that difference can be adjusted with palette's or my DMX intensity controls.
    Or all these differences could be completely corrected to perfection, independantly from software, with the programmable color correction board I'm currently finalizing the development :-)

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by p1t8ull View Post
    I think it was 30mm from memory Doc, but yes it is under the mounting plate and on top of the housing base.

    These are non-polarising prisms and don't seem to be fussy, although there may be some very small change or effect I didn't do any testing to see.
    Thanks. Do you know where I can get those prisms? Rob has polar-sensitive ones, and I think they might be larger than I want, too. I'll be using a 40mm TEC, not for raw power, just for the extra area, physical strength, and convenience it will give me in my method.

  3. #23
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    Drop Dave a PM and see if he can help.

    Robs are polar sensitive? They are all obviously diode orientation sensitive, in these quads a WP is used to change the polarisation of one diode to be able to overlay a pair of "-" shaped beams in a cube to almost double power density, then use cylinders or prisms to correct that nasty divergence.
    Last edited by p1t8ull; 10-15-2013 at 23:31.
    A little bit werrrr, a little bit weyyyyyy, a little bit arrrrgggghhh

  4. #24
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    I ought to call you Mister Lighting! That was FAST for so early in the morning. DHL could learn some serious lessons.

    Point taken about diode orientation, but the idea is to get those profiles merged precisely, so as you say, halfwave plate prior to one entry into PBS. So resulting two planes of polarisation out of PBS is the problem for polar-sensitive prisms (which are ok for 'edging' beams closely parallel using mirrors)... I might even go with cylindrical lenses, but I'm just thinking ahead till I have the means to do it, and some tests done with the things I can currently afford.

    Edit:
    It's possible I misinterpreted the polar-sensitive aspect to prisms sold by Rob (Stanwax), but I got the idea that the coatings on them were multilayer types, sensitive to wavelength and angle and polarisation.

  5. #25
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    For these fatty reds I prefer cylinders, a bit more fiddly to set up but less losses
    A little bit werrrr, a little bit weyyyyyy, a little bit arrrrgggghhh

  6. #26
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    That would work for me. But what about blue? If I can avoid having to buy different parts for different wavelengths, I will. I'll do it where I must, but when discounts arise for 25, that's a difference between 25 and 50 bits! I have no money tree, I regret to report. If cylinder lenses also work better with blue, I'll use them. I like the symmetry anyway, easier to lay out tiny modules that way. Things like this are more important to me than slight coating losses, though I think made-for-red is the way to go, blue being cheaper to get in high power. Makes me feel weird saying that given that I just bought 405-G-2 lenses for blue, but such is life...

  7. #27
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    had a visit from Mr Mills him self tonight and looks like I (we) are doing an 8 diode g71 build
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  8. #28
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    i hope you will be posting as the build goes ?
    why the p71 ?
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    had a visit from Mr Mills him self tonight and looks like I (we) are doing an 8 diode g71 build
    When God said “Let there be light” he surely must have meant perfectly coherent light.

  9. #29
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    um we will see ;-)

    sorry the 500mw 638 diode
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  10. #30
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    Dave's cylinder's work great for the blues, I found much less loss and lower divergence too.

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