Help for laser show DiY

[juanma666]

Thank you.

The first question, is that I connect TTL of the blue module and it doesn't work, but the diode is correct, without connecting TTL the diode if it emits light.
For that reason my question on the jumpers of the Show Card and the correct form of connecting them so that it illuminates the blue.

The jumpers, is for defect like in the figure nº 14



Best Regards.
Juanma.

[colouredmirrorball]

Ah, I see now.

The jumper J1 is to switch between a LCD screen or the DIP switches/addresscode. I believe you better set this to Addresscode, so add a jumper between the middle pin and L (the right pin).
The jumper J2 is for when you have a RGY laser, so that you can make the blue signal connect to the green output. On the board, all animations are programmed in three colours: red, green and blue. But the creators of the board have thought of a way so that you can use the same board for lasers that have only one or two colours. If your laser only had one colour, then you can connect the modulation input of the laser to the Intensity output of the board, so that the whole image is displayed. If your laser had two colours (which would be red and green, which makes yellow together, so it's called RGY, the design of this board dates from when blue was still insanely expensive), then you can use jumper J2 to map the blue output to the green output, so that the whole image is also displayed, even though there is no blue laser.

So for your RGB laser you need to set it to RGB, thus connect the middle pin of J2 to H (the left one).

[juanma666]

It is this way like I have configured the card.

J1 with addresscode
and
J2 with H

But the blue laser is always out.



Thank you.
Juanma.

[colouredmirrorball]

Ok. Try swapping J2 to L and see what happens. Maybe there is an error in the user manual. This shouldn't hurt anything.
Also, try connecting the blue modulation input to the red or green modulation output on the board, to see if the problem is with the modulation of the blue laser.

When you leave the modulation wires unconnected, do you then have output on the blue lasers? Some TTL lasers work in reverse: they are on when the modulation signal is off, and they go off when the modulation signal is on. This is because people bought the laser and didn't know they had to apply a modulation signal, and then sent the laser back thinking the laser was defect. So if your laser is on when there is no signal, and goes off when you put 5 V on the modulation wires, then you must reverse the modulation signal of the blue. You can do this in software. But since there is no output at all I doubt this is the problem.

[juanma666]

Thank you, I will prove as you it recommends.

Juanma.

[juanma666]

Ok. Try swapping J2 to L and see what happens. Maybe there is an error in the user manual. This shouldn't hurt anything.
Also, try connecting the blue modulation input to the red or green modulation output on the board, to see if the problem is with the modulation of the blue laser.

When you leave the modulation wires unconnected, do you then have output on the blue lasers? Some TTL lasers work in reverse: they are on when the modulation signal is off, and they go off when the modulation signal is on. This is because people bought the laser and didn't know they had to apply a modulation signal, and then sent the laser back thinking the laser was defect. So if your laser is on when there is no signal, and goes off when you put 5 V on the modulation wires, then you must reverse the modulation signal of the blue. You can do this in software. But since there is no output at all I doubt this is the problem.

Hello.

You had reason.
I have changed the polarity of TTL and now it lights.

Very grateful for the help.


Best Regards.

Juanma.

[colouredmirrorball]

Great! Keep us updated. Glad I could be of use

[juanma666]

I they am very grateful for the help.
If it interests them, I will maintain them up-to-date on my projector DIY.
If somebody knows the language... I go writing here (in Spanish):

http://highfidelity.es.tl/Proyector-l%E1ser-RGB.htm


I need a red diode that doesn't have too much divergence, to prove it in the projector. Can it be worth this?

http://www.ebay.es/itm/261012590095?...ht_2973wt_1166

With this lens:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/650nm-660nm-2...ht_1298wt_1166



Best Regards.

Juanma.

[juanma666]

Hello! friends.

Is it completely necessary that the mirror "X" are at 45º with the base?
What is the problem if the mirrors are not at 45º... does it lose brightness or does it deform the projection?
Mirror "Y", should it also be at 45º?


Best Regards.
Juanma.

[Fenechlaser]

Hello! friends.

Is it completely necessary that the mirror "X" are at 45º with the base?
What is the problem if the mirrors are not at 45º... does it lose brightness or does it deform the projection?
Mirror "Y", should it also be at 45º?


Best Regards.
Juanma.

Normally, the X mirror is set to 45 degrees with base to make sure that it hits the Y mirror in the middle so that the beams do not spill over the y mirror at a large scan angle, so yes an X mirror not at 45 degrees may deform the projection, in that for example, the extreme left or right side would look a bit dimmer since part of the beam is lost. With the Y mirror it is not so important, it is used mainly to aim the final projection (I set mine at say 48 degrees so that the beams project a bit higher than at 45).

What I usually do is make sure the X mirror is at 45 degrees by loosening the bolt on the galvo mount and turn the galvo until it is almost 45 degrees (perfectly upright). Then after tightening it, I loosen the Y galvo bolt, and adjust the galvo by pushing it in or pulling it out so that the beam from the X mirror is exactly half way along the LENGTH of the Y mirror, and then turn the Y galvo to adjust the mirror angle (what I usually set at 48 degrees). The main aim for all of this is to make sure the beams always hit the mirrors and not spill or hit the shaft/glue of the galvo (in both cases the image appears dim on the largest angle of one side).

Hope this helps, and congrats on your build Glad my dissection of the green laser was of help