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Thread: First Argon

  1. #21
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    Usually, yes. It depends on the mounting skid. If it won't fit, you can always modify the case lid a bit to make it fit. The tubes themselves are nearly identical, both in shape and in power characteristings. The PSU will drive either one. (The 163 is actually designed for slightly lower power operation, usually a max of 8-10 amps vs 12 amps for the 161.)

    Adam

  2. #22
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    Cool. 8) I figured they would. I almost tried to swap em but... :lol: F that... :roll:

  3. #23
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    On another note, I know how much of a pain that the umbilical that you have can become with the 60X. The way it is oriented when attached to the head, makes it difficult to have the head bolted down on a flat surface. There is a way, if you do it carefully, to turn the umbilical connector on the head 90 degrees counter-clock wise so that the umbilical does not get in the way when it is on a flat surface. You have to be careful though, the cabling in that head is probably a bit old now, unless it was rewired, and may be a bit brittle.

    David



  4. #24
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    More Pics!






    I used an old DMX stepper motor to drive the argon with no blinking.

    I found the tube is running about 7.7amp. But all the adjustment screw is turn it down to 5 amps or so. Won't go past 7.8amps.

  5. #25
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    I found the tube is running about 7.7amp. But all the adjustment screw is turn it down to 5 amps or so. Won't go past 7.8amps
    That may be the upper limit for that power supply. I have one that I think will go to 9amps. I use to have an MWK supply that I thought was great and went up to 10amps.

    David

  6. #26
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    Myron;

    Great pics! If you're getting 100 + mw and 5 lines at under 8 amps of tube current, then you've got a lot of life left in that tube. I've seen 60 X tubes run as hot as 14 amps tube current, but it drastically shortens their life! 10-11 amps is usually considered the max, and a little modification to the head and PSU will probably allow you to get a bit more out of it. But 8 amps is a great point to run a 60X, and it looks like you're getting good performance at that level, so I woulnd't change a thing.

    Love the diffraction grating pic! (I've got a few of those 2-D grid gratings myself, and they're lots of fun!)

    How hot is the air coming out of the fan? (It shouldn't ever be more than 130 degrees...)

    Adam

  7. #27
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    Wow that's great to hear. Thanks for all the help guys. This guy doesn't run all that hot. The fan is huge! I'd say the temp blow out is in the 70-80 deg F mark.

    I see in David's 60x the power to the head plugs in horizontal. Mine goes vertical but I'd like it horizontal. Is that as easy as unbolting the jack and moving it?

  8. #28
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    I see in David's 60x the power to the head plugs in horizontal. Mine goes vertical but I'd like it horizontal. Is that as easy as unbolting the jack and moving it?

    On another note, I know how much of a pain that the umbilical that you have can become with the 60X. The way it is oriented when attached to the head, makes it difficult to have the head bolted down on a flat surface. There is a way, if you do it carefully, to turn the umbilical connector on the head 90 degrees counter-clock wise so that the umbilical does not get in the way when it is on a flat surface. You have to be careful though, the cabling in that head is probably a bit old now, unless it was rewired, and may be a bit brittle.

    David

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DjDevNull View Post
    I'd say the temp blow out is in the 70-80 deg F mark.
    ... would that make ambient temp 40 degrees? 80 degree air would feel cold if coming from a fan.

  10. #30
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    The one in the picture is a classic 60X psu with the pass transistors instead of the glenfield-marlin FET gold boxes which only go to 8.5 or so amps

    So yes, you could adjust the upper limit inside the psu, but why? 100 mW is plenty at the tube will live a long time at 7.8 amps.

    BTW, there are usually 4 pots in the psu, and I would not go randomly turning them. ie standby,lower limit, upper limit , and loop gain.

    push the button on the side of the head to get a reading, but do not cross connect the blue-yellow jack pair to the black/red jack pair, or connect either jack pair to case ground, or you WILL blow the power supply.

    blue-yellow is light feedback, red-black is current

    Steve

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