FB3 Question: Connecting RGB pins together to maximize single-color projector output

[Humphry]

Hi all.

I am doing lasers for a friends party and am faced with a problem. I have the following:
1x RGB projector (2W total)
1x G projector (1W 532nm CNI)
1x FB3


Obviously I want the best of both worlds (don't we all!) by having full control of my RGB color palette AND having the green linked to the R+, G+ and B+ channels so that it doesn't only go on when I use green on Quickshow (maybe there is another way to achieve this?).


Does anyone have any experience or ideas to maximize the usage of the single-color green projector WHILE having a full RGB color selection for the other projector on a single FB3?


Just a half-baked idea:
I could run parallel ILDA from the RGB to the G-only projector, with a diode in series of each color channel to prevent short-circuit (I don't mind the voltage drop) and then connect the other end of each to the green projector's analog in? I realize this is far from ideal (and not ILDA-standard!), but would it work as a temporary solution till I finish by second projector?


Thanks in advance!
Fabaian

[chad]

You could do a diode if you don't mind the voltage drop, should work. A better way would be a couple of op-amps...

Chad

[VJ AIWAZ]

use the intensity pin on the ilda connector pin 3+ pin 16-
i dont know the fb3 well but it should put out on both the RGB and intensity simultaneously


http://www.taiserver.com/ilda.shtml

[Humphry]

use the intensity pin on the ilda connector pin 3+ pin 16-
i dont know the fb3 well but it should put out on both the RGB and intensity simultaneously


http://www.taiserver.com/ilda.shtml

Intensity pin works like a bomb, thanks for the help!

[Badpip]

Note that the intensity output is TTL...

/Thomas

[Humphry]

Another question - I am about to start on a projector case.

I can get a 2.5m x 1m of 4.5mm al plate for about $150. Now I assume this would be an ideal thickness for the sides and 'shelf' (could someone confirm this assumption, could it be thinner?) but obviously too thin for the baseplate.
For the baseplate: *Could I* simply bolt two of these 4.5mm plates together and get sufficient stability?
I was thinking about this and realised that one could actually have a single 4.5mm baseplate and then bolt on a smaller 4.5mm plate for the optics, possibly isolating much of the mechanical warping to the bottom plate?

Any thoughts (even if you are unsure) would be much appreciated as I have absolutely no experience with this.

And thanks Thomas for that info!

[swamidog]

no.

use cast aluminum tooling plate, at least 1/4" (6.35mm) thick for your optical baseplate. if you can't get tooling plate, or it's too expensive, use 6061 Al, also at least 1/4"

Another question - I am about to start on a projector case.

I can get a 2.5m x 1m of 4.5mm al plate for about $150. Now I assume this would be an ideal thickness for the sides and 'shelf' (could someone confirm this assumption, could it be thinner?) but obviously too thin for the baseplate.
For the baseplate: *Could I* simply bolt two of these 4.5mm plates together and get sufficient stability?
I was thinking about this and realised that one could actually have a single 4.5mm baseplate and then bolt on a smaller 4.5mm plate for the optics, possibly isolating much of the mechanical warping to the bottom plate?

Any thoughts (even if you are unsure) would be much appreciated as I have absolutely no experience with this.

And thanks Thomas for that info!

[Humphry]

Thank you.

Considering I am no longer using the 4.5mm plate in anything other than the case, can I aim for something thinner or is 4.5mm about right?

no.

use cast aluminum tooling plate, at least 1/4" (6.35mm) thick for your optical baseplate. if you can't get tooling plate, or it's too expensive, use 6061 Al, also at least 1/4"

[swamidog]

no. use at least 6.35mm.

Thank you.

Considering I am no longer using the 4.5mm plate in anything other than the case, can I aim for something thinner or is 4.5mm about right?