China RGB laser modules: worth it?

[colouredmirrorball]

He offered me a case + green laser module with bad focus as a starting project. I already have a blue laser so red should be a pretty easy step (I hope).
This makes it not worthy anymore to buy the laser bricks, as it would be unnecessary and another big investment in a relatively short time.
But if you need like a quick RGB option, this is perfect. And your vid shows it performs pretty well too.

[PhantomRage]

ok I see. I thought you might have had one and it did some funky stuff...

I will keep running this one, and see how it lasts. It if catches fire, or let's out the magic smoke I will for sure post reports.

[2tall]

Hey PhantomRage could you please, PLEASE post some photos of the wiring of your setup. I have the same setup as you but I did something wrong with a 200mW module I have and fried two IC chips on the driver board. The red, blue and green diodes inside still work. It's just the driver board. So I purchased a 400mW module but I am reluctant to connect the modulation inputs. I really need to see how you have yours connected. This is the only thing keeping me from finishing this part of my projector. Next I'll be looking into the software part. Many thanks.

[Gmunu]

I just got the 400 mW one today. There is absolutly no instructions or any kind of paperwork with it. I think I figured where to hook up the 12 Volts but I'm afraid to touch the TTLs without some idea about what I'm doing. If I leave the 3 TTLs unconnected, will all three lasers come on or do I short them, connect 5 Volts or what?

Thanks for any help.

[2tall]

Gmunu, yes it will work with just the 12 volts connected. Just make sure you have the polarity right and it's DC not AC. You will get a nice "white" beam. Be careful because it will burn. I wish there was some kind of paperwork with this thing too. A schematic of the driver circuit board would be nice.

[Gmunu]

I sent a question to Laserlands by way of eBay asking what these statements in their add mean:

3. please add soft washer in the space.

4. please adjust the screw to make it for the best working condition. we guruantee that all three laser can work before shipping. but since the shipping, it may loose. please adjust them by yourselves.

Add soft washer to what space? Adjust what screw?

I hope they answer. It sure would have been nice if they gave some kind of drawing or schematic with it.

[2tall]

I sent a question to Laserlands by way of eBay asking what these statements in their add mean:

3. please add soft washer in the space.

4. please adjust the screw to make it for the best working condition. we guruantee that all three laser can work before shipping. but since the shipping, it may loose. please adjust them by yourselves.

Add soft washer to what space? Adjust what screw?

I hope they answer. It sure would have been nice if they gave some kind of drawing or schematic with it.

I hope you get a reply from them. It's a shame they don't provide some type of documentation with them.

[PhantomRage]

Ok sorry, been away from the computer...

Let me get the kids to school and I will post my build with this brick.

[PhantomRage]

Here we go....

The RGB Brick is 12VDC to 13.8VDC (that is the range I tested it at) The Yellow wire is + (positive) the black wire is - (negative) IF this is the wired plug that came with your brick, the colors may differ. If you look at the board, it will be printed 12VDC and each pin will be labeled +12V and GND. This is the plug next to the Green lasers TTL plug.

The TTL plugs are the colored plugs that are not connected, Green, Red, Blue. If you look at the PCB in front of the plug, each pin is labeled. - and + so it looks like this in front of the pins ( - G + )

The PT-ITURS show card from Phenix Technology has a set of plugs, (pins) for each laser color, being that they are TTL. The one labeled intensity blanking is a analog output and used for some china systems that state they are analog, but only green and blue are the analog colors used.

So, from the PT show card (will start with the blue jack or pins) The ones labeled as the COLOR are the + (positive) pins. GND labeled ones are ground.

So it would go like this,

PT Card --> White Brick
Blue --> + of blue plug
GND --> - of blue plug

Green --> + of green plug
GND --> - of green plug

Red --> + of red plug
GND --> - of red plug

Hope this helps.

The other labels GND y- y+ and GND x- x+ and for the scanners,
the board gets its power from the 3 pin plug +15 GND -15
work led, and power led, are for status LEDs, not to be confused with laser TTL signals.

I will try to post photos of my build if time allows, but for now. back to kids, and house duty...

[Gmunu]

Thanks PhantomRage.

I hooked mine up to a 12 v regulated supply. I measured 750 mA at start up and 525 mA after about 30 seconds or so. The beam is mostly white. The colors seperate some after a few feet.

I got some answers from the seller, the first was:

1. soft washer is inlucded in the package, when you receive it, you can find it 2. there are screws on the back of the module, you can rotate it to adjust it Merry

I asked again, then got this response:

the soft washer is installed between the driver and the laser body. if the driver is tight, you can choose not to use it Merry