1x8W RGB 2x3W G
3x12W RGB (in progres)
M2.0 M3.0
You have it set up all wrong , i suggest you read this thread ( all of it ) http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ght=Holy+grail
You will be needing additional parts , pbs cube and wavplate ,another set of cylinder lens
Those reds need to be stacked in pairs ,and then pbs/waveplate them together
And all distances for reds are critical also i would not try building a quad without using 2mm fl lens
And daves adjustable mounts
I built a quad p73 and the holy grail thread showed me how to get it right![]()
When God said “Let there be light” he surely must have meant perfectly coherent light.
Shot to admin- you have my agree for delate my post.
1x8W RGB 2x3W G
3x12W RGB (in progres)
M2.0 M3.0
I was hoping if we could spend some time on the Mitsu diodes? I really like them, a lot.
But seriously, Bolo raises a good question that is diode independent and that is near field and far field alignment. Forget the telescopes and prisms for now and visualize what is happening when two diodes are co-aligned.
The knife edges are not used to bring the beams toward convergence because if they do then the beams are farther apart than they could be near field and will inevitably diverge away from each other as they progress away from the projector. The angle adjustment for the knife is only to adjust the beams to be parallel to each other while the POSITION of the knife edge determines where the two parallel beams lie relative to each other. First, adjust the diodes in their housings to be parallel and if say 2cm apart in the projector then they should be 2cm apart @ 5M. Then, intercept the beams with the knives. Fix one knife and slide the other carefully on the base plate while watching the far-field spots. It is OK here (for now) to overlap these spots. You will quickly see that there is a limit to how close you can place the movable knife in toward the first beam before you begin to shadow the first beam. This limit is at its lowest when the second diode is as close to the edge of its knife as it can be without light failing to strike the mirror.
A big help here is to project the whole array on a large mirror that is 1/2 the distance of your typical, anticipated projection distance when the projector is complete. The reflection from this mirror can be adjusted to strike a screen close to your projector so that as you make these adjustments you can see both the "far field" spots and what you are adjusting in the same field of view.
If additional optics are used they will be added and work best if this basic alignment is done first
Last edited by planters; 08-26-2013 at 17:13.