Qs about E=Stops and delayed start

[hakzaw1]

E-Stop Questions


The "Linna' 500RGB projectors recently gotten by ~10 members(both forums)
have a 'remote' jack on the back and although the E Stop is available from LK
only the plug(2 prong) is provided.
Linna tells me that LK sells the rest (looks like it comes with a very long cord, btw)

& She says an E-Stop can be DIY built as well. my question is: Does it necessarily indicate that it is not wired properly if the PJ will work without the plug(w/orw/o) attached?

I have run this projector both ways and N/Ps . . On projectors that come with the complete E stop must it be plugged for the projector to operate? Also have any of you built your own E Stop from parts? I would think it would be an easy project- key switch with key not removable in the 'on' position and a large red button switch that, IIRC, once pressed would require more than just pulling the button to make the PJ work again.

Also I would like to hear some info please about the delayed start- how would one go about modding a working PJ so it would have a delay? & how long does the delay need to be? thanks for any help you can give me......Len

[Displaser]

Having an e-stop that has to close a circuit to make a projector stop is flawed... You wouldn't realize that you had a cable pulled until you tried to shut off your projector. I guess they include the plug to make it easier for you to make your own e-stop. Not much to it - big red mushroom switch, a keyswitch, enclosure.

[dsli_jon]

...Does it necessarily indicate that it is not wired properly if the PJ will work without the plug (w/orw/o) attached?

Yessir, it necessarily-does. The PJ should *not* be able to spit out photons, when the interlock plug is removed / not-connected.. it should be tied to the keyswitch / all part of that same-circuit, and, 'normally-open', so-that, when the interlock-plug - who's original 'purpose' is to be tied to a remote interlock / e-stop (..because, presumably, the pj will be up, out of reach, so the E-stop, tied to that same-circuit, can (and should)-be, right next to the Operator, so he can 'kill it', when need-be...) - is either removed, or that circuit is 'broken' (via e-stop, for example..) the light instantly-terminates, just like if you turned off the keysw..

...But, if the pj *does* work, whether that 'interlock plug' is in or out - that indicates that the interlock circuit, itself (inside- little to do with the plug, itself.. that's just a jumper, for 'local' operation / testing..) is not wired-correctly. Again, when you first turn it on, you should not be *able* to get any light-out, with either the key-off, or the interlock, not closed (connected).

Also I would like to hear some info please about the delayed start- how would one go about modding a working PJ so it would have a delay? & how long does the delay need to be?

Don't have the time to go into the 'chapter and verse'-level of detail, right now, but, basically, there's a few ways it can be done, fairly-simple - though, that's when you're *starting from scratch* - not really a good-idea to 'suggest mods', since we'd need to fully-understand all interconnects / dependencies, within the pj's 'brains', which, most of these 'happy meal' boxes seem to have ('p-trust board (?) etc) these days. But, for new-pj's, great products like this: http://shop.stanwaxlaser.co.uk/ilda-...board-55-p.asp ..make compliance a snap for new-pj's. And, here's a well-written article on the 'whys and wherefores' / rationales behind that reg.. http://www.lvrlimited.com/blog_PushTheButton.htm

..and, it makes perfect sense - best to have the output, only-restore, when a fully-aware operator *positively* closes a button, vs just 'auto-restarting' when the e-stop is pulled-up, etc.. That way, the operator - who is supposed to be fully in-control at all times, of his / her projections - can-be, vs the 'auto-LOLZ' boo-boo boxes..

..anyhoo, more, later.. gotta get back to the salt-mines..
j

[hakzaw1]

THANKS!! understood and will do.

& its not (just one)wired wrong as so far none out of (11 or so) failed to work without or with the plug we were sent.
So it needs to be like a 'dead-mans' switch- pulled for whatever reason kills the boat motor. gotcha-- makes perfect sense(now).

hak
************** edit-(after reading sir Jon's linkages)..
ONE new Q...(J/K)

How many USD is 37 BPS??

and an addition..

& FS --one P-Trust never used make offer

[hakzaw1]

While doing a search for projector E-stops I found this from 2008.
am I correctly understanding what I read here?

http://www.lbl.gov/ehs/safety/lasers...ols/lsp007.pdf


I have no intention to not use the best E-stops I can afford but was not aware that these are more suggested than required, and there are lower cost ways that are OK to use.

The above says the E-stop reg. was mainly needed for Laser cutters and other applications other than projectors. but its 2008 so..

hak

also is the general consensus that the best design is what StanWax offers with db25 -
Is he the only source of these ready-made- +

Brooks KGB gave me one and - I am sold on these.+

thanks for any advice- len