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Thread: RGB build seems I do this every year 10w goal

  1. #1
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    Default RGB build seems I do this every year 10w goal

    Gonna hopefully keep my progress of my latest build here. Besides other laser projects I'm now trying to get a 10w build ready for SELEM. This will consist of 4w 638, 4w 445, 1w 405, and 2w of 532.

    Red and blue will be home built, the 532 will be a pair of cubed 1w (if all one pole) should be.

    Realistically after loss of optics and scanners, I expect to land in the 8w+ area out of the scanners.

    Add this to the stepper build, separate red build, 2 beam tables, and a lumia box. Here is to hoping for bad weather so I'm not just outside.


    Last year I wanted 5w and ended at 4.19 off the galvos.
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    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
    Last year I wanted 5w and ended at 4.19 off the galvos.
    And it was still pretty damn impressive!
    "Information not shared, is information lost forever"

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    And ya'll call ME nuts... I'm getting left in the dust with all these multiwatt reds and blues people are building.

  4. #4
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    Looking forward to checking out your build. I'm working on a similar setup, the goal being some outdoor power for the summer festivals.. Aiming for a pair of 10W's, lowest cost without compromising quality, aiming 4W of 445 from a dual, 3W of 532nm and as much as I can get from a quad of mitsus. Just got the first one scanning a few days ago with the 7W (before the scanners) of the green / blue and definitely blown away by the results so far, though still a lot of work ahead

  5. #5
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    I'd say we are building about the same box.
    Here is the beginning of the red testing. I will be doing something abit different here testing some other ideas. I have build 638nm modules at 1W, 1.5W, and 5W before, but am going to be going for a real tight beam with this build. The key to this is using the prisms for knife and stacking. If you don;t you them, you may want to source some as you just cant get close enough with the mirror edge thickness gets in the way.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by m0f View Post
    Looking forward to checking out your build. I'm working on a similar setup, the goal being some outdoor power for the summer festivals.. Aiming for a pair of 10W's, lowest cost without compromising quality, aiming 4W of 445 from a dual, 3W of 532nm and as much as I can get from a quad of mitsus. Just got the first one scanning a few days ago with the 7W (before the scanners) of the green / blue and definitely blown away by the results so far, though still a lot of work ahead
    Not sure your direction, will look for your thread next, but If you want 4w of 445 out of a dual and longevity, you should seriously consider 9mm ones. I have built dual using m140's and there is a ton of loss in PBS and correction optics. A over under stack will yield you the best results and avoid the PBS and give better results unless your going for the cross +

    Also with the P73, consider a TEC, it is the only way to keep the power once they warm it drops like a rock.

    Just my unsolicited advice, no offense meant, just have been working on these solutions for some time.
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  7. #7
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    Always appreciate any input and suggestions.

    I'm using H1600 diode's for the blue that I picked up quite a while ago from DTR. They seem to be fairly efficient compared to the m140's but not quite as nice as the 9mm's. With 1.8 amps I am getting ~2.5 - 2.6W each with 405-g2's. After losses from combining, I am getting around 4.1W using a waveplate, PBS and cylindrical lenses with a nice square beam profile. Though still aiming for a bit more with tuning polarization. Longevity isn't too much of a concern, they're cheap enough that they can replaced (probably with 9mm's) if they do end up dimming, and I've had my use out of them as well as they're recycled from last year's build.

    The red's are a bit new to me having only done single diode mitsu's so far. The plan is to vertically stack two pairs and combine via pbs, then through a set of dave's cylinders. For sure plan to tec it soon after seeing Planter's videos . Though in the interests of getting up and running I'm using an aluminum spacer for now which will be replaced by a tec shortly once I figure out how to get it sealed off from humidity. The underside of the baseplate has several rows of heatsinks, using a blower fan to keep the baseplate at a decent temp. I'm hoping it should be enough to cope with the added heat from the tec(s).

    Ultimately would like as tight a beam as possible, though as I mainly do beam shows I'd be happy with ~1.5 mrad or so to fit 5mm aperture scanners. Will be telescoping the green to match whatever I end up with. I have a feeling the red will be the deciding factor.
    Last edited by m0f; 04-29-2013 at 05:23.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
    I'd say we are building about the same box.
    Here is the beginning of the red testing. I will be doing something abit different here testing some other ideas. I have build 638nm modules at 1W, 1.5W, and 5W before, but am going to be going for a real tight beam with this build. The key to this is using the prisms for knife and stacking. If you don;t you them, you may want to source some as you just cant get close enough with the mirror edge thickness gets in the way.
    Hey mister polishedball,

    are you using the mitsu diodes there?
    If yes, doesn' t the different distance from each collimator to cyl lens pair mess up your beam correction?

    I have found that acceptable results occur only when all the diodes are exaxtly the same distance from the first cyl lens
    "its called character briggs..."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaNeK779 View Post
    Hey mister polishedball,

    are you using the mitsu diodes there?
    If yes, doesn' t the different distance from each collimator to cyl lens pair mess up your beam correction?

    I have found that acceptable results occur only when all the diodes are exaxtly the same distance from the first cyl lens
    I have found that when spaced tightly over under the result is less than a .1mrad difference when using 2 diodes. I'll turn down the powers and try to get a real camera to take a picture of the difference at 50' it is minimal. I guess is is dependent on how you define acceptable. I'm a the enemy of good is better kind of guy. This red will be a 4 diode build, and + across each. Time will tell, but was very happy with the first stack once setup. The build is just a test bed right now once proofed, will then have a the mounts machined.
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  10. #10
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    New TEC control arrived today.

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