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Thread: Single Mode RGB Diode Bundle

  1. #111
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    Aug 2014
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    Spec sheets didn't have aperture information, anyone? DTR doesn't know either. I'm hoping a 10um or smaller for fast axis, need info to calculate divergence.

  2. #112
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    Oct 2007
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    Laser57 there was a guy compiling together the source dimensions/logo's/numbering (on 445's at least)/etc of diodes over at LPF a few years ago.. One of the guys over there with the abilities to do high magnification and measurements. Look for lots of cool photos

  3. #113
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    DTR is a great seller and it is nice to see full descriptions and prices!
    Phil Bergeron( AKA 142laser)

  4. #114
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    Hello
    I seem to be having an issue with the blue and red diode from this kit. I'm tried sending them 200-250ma and they hardly light up, no where near what they should be outputting. I'm using a babpip driver with a 12v Psu. The modules do get warm quickly, is it a heat issue? The green diode works just fine with the same driver and psu.

  5. #115
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    Nov 2013
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    St George UT
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    Quote Originally Posted by f150trk21 View Post
    Hello
    I seem to be having an issue with the blue and red diode from this kit. I'm tried sending them 200-250ma and they hardly light up, no where near what they should be outputting. I'm using a babpip driver with a 12v Psu. The modules do get warm quickly, is it a heat issue? The green diode works just fine with the same driver and psu.
    You probably got me by mistake, but I'll try to help.
    Number one- You have to have more than adequate heat sinking.

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by f150trk21 View Post
    200-250ma
    Firstly, make sure that you have a Lasorb or some type of ESD protection on them. Some of these drivers have a very brief voltage bump on power up which can kill diodes dead. ESD protection is a must!

    Secondly, the Max recommened current for the blue diodes is 165mA so, without proper heatsinking, this can kill them easily. 200mA to 250mA for the blue diodes might be too much current in general. I have found the blue diodes to be EXTREMELY sensitive and very easy to kill.

    The max current for the red is 200mA. At this current level, heatsinking is very important. At 250mA, I would think it could be killed without proper cooling.

    Also, not saying you did, but never adjust the current with the diodes hooked up. Any transients in the adjustment pots (especially with low powered diodes) can kill them pretty fast.

    If the diodes are getting warm and not putting out much light, I hate to say it but, they're probably toast.

    Hope this helps.
    If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.

  7. #117
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    Oct 2007
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    - I hate to say it, but it sounds like the diodes are toast. If you've verified the current is running through them and collimator is focussed or removed and there's barely a glow, then the only thing it can be is the diodes. I only have experience with multi-modes, but I run without lasorbs and have never had a diode quit from ESD, back reflections from optics is another story (mitsu reds are very sensitive ime). Many of the new (at least multi-mode) diodes have built in eds protection, perhaps single modes don't.


    - Did you short the diode leads on the drivers after setting them prior to connecting the diodes ? This I find is one thing that can kill a diode quicker than anything. Drivers often have a capacitor on the output which will hold a charge long after powering it off, and without a diode connected can charge up full and easily be enough to zap a diode.


    - As far as heatsinking, it's important to have good contact to the baseplate, and good mounts, but aside from this I've never found it to be a major issue. Even when dealing with large arrays of diodes, a large heatsink and fan under the baseplate will quickly take care of all heat generated, the only need for tec would be to increase stability (ime not necessary for show lasers, scientific perhaps), or the other reason would be if you wanted to extreme chill to shift wavelength of reds / increase power output. Without tec, power drops off a bit after continous running, only perhaps a few mW, hardly work worrying about. You should definitely get good power output with just heatsinking. The other thing is if it was a heat issue power would at least come up initially and only drop off as it heats up.

    - Edit : Just wanted to add, I'm running a bunch of badpip drivers here and no complaints here. Perhaps only that they don't have enough output for some of the recent higher powered diodes. Haven't toasted any diodes so far with them, running at least 15 diodes between different lasers, no lasorbs.
    Last edited by m0f; 01-17-2016 at 00:07.

  8. #118
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    Oct 2015
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    As you ramp up to that 200mA do they brighten steadily or stay dim way past threshold (somewhere under 80ma) all the way up then suddenly brighten and stay steady after that? If so they've become what the pointer forums call a zombie diode, usually from being driven too hard if I understand right, I did this to a random one I rescued from a DVD burner and it seemed to turn into a little heater in the process so sounds familiar

    Their actual maximums are quite high - there's record of folk driving that blue very hard up to 400mA - but cooling becomes a serious issue and it'd dramatically shorten the lifespan. I didn't need to get that high though to balance the green.

    I'd second the lasorbs as a very good early purchase - static is a harsh mistress. I killed a few diodes in the process of putting all this together and I'm usually very electronics-friendly - not sure i've blown a mosfet in my life.
    Dynamics/EasyLase LC/FD820/RGB 400mW Homebrew w/EMS4ks

  9. #119
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    Nov 2008
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    do you have a signal input to the driver? I think that driver has a blanking function. How are you measuring this current? 400ma into the blue is instant death. Static will kill these diodes easy. I toasted a bunch before I got it right and I still have no idea what I did. I think these diodes are sensitive to the quality of the current you feed them. Once I stopped using the power supply in my breadboard most of the issues went away. Also sudden death seems to occur if you play with the wiring while they are on. As temping as it is make achange add power turn it off make a change add power. What you describe is static damaged diodes in my mind or ones that are going to die soon.

    If you want more power I suggest you change diodes. This worked very well for me. HL63133DG, PLP520-B1, M462 Use telescopes to make the divergence and beam size the same. Add spatial filtering while you are at it. This delivers a balanced 1/2 W of power or a good 2W bluish beam for beams.

    Speaking of spatial filtering, I think we should all make a donation to PL in Planters name for all his work. No one here didn't benefit in some way from his willingness to share. Not saying there aren't others but he has gone over the top. I'm not going to mention others as the list would be long. Here is my point. Regardless of whom did it if you benefited make a donation to PL. In fact we could start a thread where you can say thank you.

  10. #120
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    May 2009
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    CA
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    Thanks for the replies, looks like a fired them. I do know to short the leads on the driver and work on a anti static mat with wrist strap. I didn't use lasorbs with these, but I will in the future.

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