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Thread: Laserwave 1 watt OEM V-S

  1. #21
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    Dec 2007
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    Hi Everybody.

    I like to share some experiance we have made over the last 18 years, and not much have change on the heat and cool qustions. We have in the winter normally -10 to +5 degrees here, like in other contryes like Edison also sayed.
    And if you want a stable laser in a large temptatur range, the heat and cool is a much on all DPSS laser.

    We never seen a (china) system running at spec / rated output power if all temp isn't in place before you add 5 volt to you blanking pins. I also talked Bridge many times about the heat and cool driver is a must. Cooling ain't enougth.
    It is not the right way to do things, that the laser beam must be "warm" things up to working temperature before it is properly set point is reached.
    I my world it normal logic that you need H & C in you driver. One think is power stability CW or modualtion. But another thing is if the temperature is aroun 7-8 degrees, where the humidity is lets say it is not good for laser optics, it will also be condensate or moisture on the optical parts. and if you expect to have a laser which will have a long life with many hours of operation. It doesn't help you if your laser head is without any control of the operating temperature on all parts LD + 1 or two crystals depending the laser head you have. And it's normal here with this low temps in winter time. Let say i would take one of our Jenlas laser 5 or 8 watt green laser without heat and cool (of cause i would never do that). But it would not be a great to turn it on at 5 degrees with 20+ watts IR on the optical parts when everything ain't at work temp. It is like peeing in your pants, it lasts only a short time. :-)

    One thing we also notes is if you modulate a laser (china without heat and cool) at low temperatur outside in cold conditions, it will never come up to the rated output power. So if you have a 1 watt green DPSS, you are lucky if you have half the output from it. Because you are way below the "correct" set points and the laser do a lots of mode jumps while you move uncontrolled around in temp's.

    But i like to see a test from any china manufactor the can show a test spec with a sweep -5 to 30 degrees, and offcause at power up at -5 degrees with and without modulation. That they have a stable system and you have the output power you have payed for. :-) I will start sell there laser also.

    We also added Pico drivers from Laserparts.ch on some 1 watt CNI laser and they just run perfect. Better stability, better blanking better output (at all time) can only say it a win win with heat and cool.

    It surprise me really much, when there is so much to gain. Why not have the option for the customer. Only CNI have the option up to 2 watts with a H-bridge (heat and cool) solution. Strangely it is not certainly better the higher you are coming up in powerlevel. Hihi...

    It is certainly not my intention to sound arrogant or so, but we've just seen so many not well constructed DPSS driver over the the years from the china.

    Greetings
    Poul
    Denmark
    Last edited by Laserpower; 10-24-2013 at 21:40.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by planters View Post
    ...I would kill about a dozen birds with one stone and provide the entire projector with a resistance heater, say thermal epoxied to the base plate and controlled with a simple uni directional relay control.
    So would I. Got to admit I just limited the context to one laser partly because that's all I can aim to make right now anyway, and if it's going into contexts beyond my control I didn't think of trying to change those. One thing might be worth doing if you're heating the entire projector, and that's a PWM drive for either resistor or TEC. Old idea, but specifically useful in this case because it can respond to changes in wind, humidity, anything that suddenly changes the thermal transfer rate. Using a relay might be like trying to manouvre a space capsule by 'banging' it with on-off thrusters. Could cause as much instability as it tries to fix.

    Edit: Best heaters I can think of are those big 100W bolt-on anodised thingers, like used for RF dummy loads and linear current limits in cheap gas laser current limits. And they look cool as hell too.

    More edit: It occurred to me that even if just one or two lasers in a projector had resistors to heat, TEC's to cool, the extra heat waste might go a long way to providing the heat to keep the rest of the projector warm enough. It doesn't solve the regulation, but it does mean that the total heat and energy required should be the same either way. And if the 'torque' of this method in an individual laser gives some extra stability against its own modulated power variations, it could still be a narrow win. Either way might make a system harder to use in a hot club though.... I like Edison's fanned baseplate, it looks like a giant GPU cooler heatsink, probably capable of handling large ambient variation.
    Last edited by The_Doctor; 10-25-2013 at 01:00.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Peking
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    Thanks for everyone in this topic.
    maybe we can do a vote about heat and cooling.
    1) want add heat and cooling and would, can accept driver sizes increasing, can accept PSU bigger because of this, like pay some more for laser had heat funcation.
    2) no need heat at all, only cooling is ok, I never face heat problems, because for power below 5W I only using indoor or my places is hot even in winter
    Thanks for your reply and answer first.
    Best regards!
    Bridge
    3)
    Laser-wave can supply:
    Green 532nm, 4W, 10W, 15W
    blue 445nm, 2W, 3.5W, 6W, 10W
    blue 462nm, 2W
    Red 638nm, 500mW, 1W,2W, 4W, 5W, 6W, 8W, 10W
    All diodes, All optics, All mount, All laser base and housing for yourselves building lasers.
    Speical products, 532nm, OEM-V-SS, 4W, 98mm*46mm*48mm; OEM-H, 10W, 250mm*88mm*70mm
    www.laser-wave.com or www.laser-wave.net
    bridge@laser-wave.com or 463366312@qq.com
    We Chat: 463366312, Laserwave-Bridge

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Essex, UK
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    one of our first laser meets at surfleet was very cold, the village hall had no heating.

    this was back in the day of 473 no 445. everyones dpss modules were really struggling to heat up as it was so cold. bridge rob was there and have the same problems as the rest of us.

    you dont have to be outside to need to heat your dpss

    if its good enough for opsl its good enough for me
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  5. #25
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    Feb 2011
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    New Hampshire
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    I think bridge has it right. This can be done, but it will involve some compromises ie cost, PSU capacity and a rework of the drivers. OK, fine, but I would like to step back for a moment to my earlier post and consider where this issue stands relative other consequences of cold operation of a projector. No one seems to be saying that these lasers (any of them ) fail to perform well if the environment is within a comfortable range for the audience. I for one have invested a lot more in time and money to construct my projectors than the purchase and installation of the single DPSS component. Once you are looking at cold weather operation of the projector system AS A WHOLE then it will work better if it is thermally protected from the extremes of the environment. If it is dusty and smoky then an exit window and a non ventilated enclosure is a good idea. If it is cold or it is a condensing environment then warming the base plate should be done. So, even if there was bi-phasic thermal control, I would still do these other things if I planed to use a projector in a more hostel environment.

    I believe the major advantage of a +/- thermal control would be the quick warm up to full output that now takes a couple of minuets. I also think that if Laserwave proceeded to make such an upgraded driver available in the future, I would be happy to assist in the installation/adjusting of the new board to avoid the need to return the laser to China.

  6. #26
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    Dec 2008
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    veenwouden
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    I think its worth every penny but i think a heat and cool driver is only a must with 2 watt and up since those powers are used for outdoor projectors. I mean there is no point in having these modules that are below 2 watt with a fancy driver. If the linearity and stabbillity is good from the OEM-V-S and does the job for indoor a fancy driver is not needed and its a waste of money.

    I hope that the 2 watt and up will be available with a heat and cool driver just like CNI and others are doing. That way laserwave keeps up with the rest.

    Tempted to try one......


    Interested in 6-12W RGB projectors with low divergence? Contact me by PM!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Vancouver, Canada
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    First I must say I'm really impressed with Laserwave, it's not often the manufacturer is available to discuss potential improvements and options and to consider customers input.

    Cold weather aside, another one my show scenario's, is sometimes the lasers are only used for 2 minutes or less during the entire show.

    One example was at a local superbowl party where the client wanted a quick beam show and their logos projected in sync with when their commercial was aired. The lasers were idling all day but outputting for a total of 30 seconds. As well something that's often desired with concerts, often the lasers are only desired during a certain peak during one particular song. It's so often desirable to have the laser at close to full power in an instant, usually in sync with the lighting and video going dark, etc.

    There are work arounds, often involving using other colours initially and working mixes of green into the show, but it's not perfect as can be limiting.

    So for myself I would certainly be happy to pay a bit more for bi-directional tec for the crystal as an option. Though I often look for a bargain, when something can improve functionality for my application potentially in a big way, it's often well worth the difference in cost to me. Driver size is not usually a major concern for me personally.

    because for power below 5W I only using indoor or my places is hot even in winter
    When space is not an issue, I will sometimes combine 2x smaller lasers via PBS cube. The biggest reason is redundancy, so that if one fails or is trouble, I can still finish the show at a reduced brightness. Another reason is cost, it's often much more economical to combine two smaller lasers than purchase one big one. So it's something I think smaller lasers could benefit from as well if it can be implemented without too much extra cost.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Peking
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    Thanks for all of you kindly reply and advise. your reply is very important for us and we know your kindly reply is want us do better and better.
    I wish there will be more attend and communications about our OEM-V-S, OEM-V, if you had used our those lasers, that will be better.
    Also I will communication with our engineer and see what we can do.
    Best regards!
    Bridge
    Laser-wave can supply:
    Green 532nm, 4W, 10W, 15W
    blue 445nm, 2W, 3.5W, 6W, 10W
    blue 462nm, 2W
    Red 638nm, 500mW, 1W,2W, 4W, 5W, 6W, 8W, 10W
    All diodes, All optics, All mount, All laser base and housing for yourselves building lasers.
    Speical products, 532nm, OEM-V-SS, 4W, 98mm*46mm*48mm; OEM-H, 10W, 250mm*88mm*70mm
    www.laser-wave.com or www.laser-wave.net
    bridge@laser-wave.com or 463366312@qq.com
    We Chat: 463366312, Laserwave-Bridge

  9. #29
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    Jun 2010
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    Australia
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    Dear Bridge, did you see my PM seeking costs for 532nm?
    This space for rent.

  10. #30
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    Jun 2010
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    Australia
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    Once the direct lasing green diodes are available at decent powers, profile and cost all these issues will be a thing of the past... Bring it on!
    This space for rent.

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