MG PERYB-643-A02 with no key

[SoulFeast]

So I got this in today, and as I was looking at the PSU to find the ports to jump for the remote, I noticed no key was included.

I've been told to wait on a spare key, and I've also been told to hot wire it.

However, 4 white wires, so I can't even begin to guess what they go to. Thoughts?

[SoulFeast]

So the key is in, and I'm getting power now.

Without a remote, I had to jumper 3 connections to get lasing.

Beam Interlock
Safety Interlock
Light Control Mode

So when power is plugged in, and key in, under "off" position. I get 3 of 4 status lights on.

AC Connected
Safety Interlock Open
Beam Interlock Open

This is good, and this is what is supposed to happen. However, immediately when I turn the key from "off" to "on" the Beam Interlick Open light turns off.

This is the quote from the manual on what this interlock is used for:

"This is one of two interlock circuits in the Series 543 or 643 laser system. It will not allow high voltage to be applied to the laser tube unless the laser cable is firmly in place, the cooling fans are connected, and pins 1 and 3 on the REMOTE P2 connector are shorted. If the interlock connections are broken, then restored, the laser will automatically begin lasing as soon as its 35-second warm-up cycle has been completed. "

So based on the fact that it only goes out once I switch power to the head, this tells me that this is where the faulty lies. I have checked the umbilical cord connections, and I've checked the 3 jumpers for the remote, all are golden.

However, since I don't have a 230VAC fan, I have the interlocks for the fan jumpered, and I am running a 115VAC fan external. Though I take it the head is not happy with this.

The P3 connection (fan) consists of 7 ports (only 6 pins used).

I have pins 19 and 21 jumepred, these are the interlock. Pins 16 and 20 are 115CAV neutral/hot to head fan [respectively]. The remaining two, pins 3 and 4, are safety ground and 230VAC to fan [respectively].

So because the fan connection is what is acting up here, I wasn't sure if there was a workaround beyond getting 230VAC fans.

Though I was thinking about plugging in the 115VAC fan to the 115VAC pins, and interlock, but I don't know if the PSU would be able to power it, on top of that, if said power would be 115VAC.

I doubt it, since there's no neutral going to the PSU in the first place.

So Unless someone has any good ideas, I'll be dropping a c-note on 2 230VAC fans.

[LightningStalker]

Well I was going to say call a locksmith, but it looks like you have that part figured out.

You could try connecting two 115VAC fans in series. Unless there is a current transformer
shunt, or something else to actually detect the presence of the motor coils, I don't see how
this could be the problem.

Is there a schematic for the PSU? It would be most helpful.

[SoulFeast]

A while ago I picked up a small (heh) air-cooled ArKr whitelight. A Melles Griot PERYB-6343-A02. Came with PSU, head, umbilical cord, and thick aluminum plate that it just happens to be mounted to. No key, and I had to get a 208V power cord for it, and wire up a 208V spider box to get 208V from separate off-phase legs.

Once I got the key and power cord it, it was time for the moment of truth.

For a few hours, I doubted whether it was even functional. Kept getting errors, wouldn't light, interlock issues, etc. Many a dozen emails back and forth with Sam.

When suddenly..it just..worked.

It was after I tested voltages across the various pins for the P3 (fan) connector. I was stumped. Getting 0V across the board. Figured maybe the interlock needed to be in to trick the PSU into even feeding the connector.

Boom. That's when it all clicked. I didn't do anything different, the interlock being taken out, and put back in, seems to have started it.

Either way, it fired up.

I had hot air spewing out of the fan like no tomorrow, and the PSU's fan had finally decided to play.

No output.

What??

Well it seems there's a beam shutter. Ha ha... ok ... Nice one Bloom. Spend all day thinking of ways to build a CuBr, and forget to check the shutter.

So I open the shutter, and I see maybe half a mW of blue. Well that's disappointing. Perhaps out of alignment? I go to check the front of the laser. There was a ton of optical equipment screwed into the laser, by chance I lifted some of it. Aligned the laser, bright white.

We're finally in business. Houston, we have photons!

So frantically, I align the laser to my liking, and remove all this junk.

(reflecting on that, I may need to remount the "junk", misalign it, then realign it after removing it. Currently it's aligned to the position it was in when the junk was added. Will think about this more later tonight.)

I stick a grating in front of it, and 5 lines! Currently at maybe 25-30%, so that is excellent news indeed!

3 blues (not exactly sure which just yet, need to pull up some tables), 568nm coming in strong (actually the "white" is a bit yellow heavy) and 647 bringing up the rear.

All-in-all, I am VERY overjoyed about this laser. Nothing could make me happier than snagging an air-cooled ArKr for $165, and actually having it work

Once the new fan comes in, I will be able to really put it to the test. With about 25mW, anf 5 lines at 30%.... I am greatly looking forward to 75%

Post shutter lifting:



Post realignment (no good camera :



Post grating:

[mixedgas]

Go retune it, your missing at least two lines.

Steve

[mixedgas]

Well I was going to say call a locksmith, but it looks like you have that part figured out.
Quote:
You could try connecting two 115VAC fans in series. Unless there is a current transformer
shunt, or something else to actually detect the presence of the motor coils, I don't see how
this could be the problem.
End Quote"

There is a current shunt, looking for a minimum size fan, on more modern MGs, on ILTs, and some of the JDSUs. With modern fans, connecting in series is ill advised. Its actually looking for a very large impedance.

There is no schematic for the modern PSUs, and we are unlikely to ever get one. Most laser Power Supplies now come from LaserDrive, and their policy is no schematics. Just getting a connector pinout from them can take 2-3 days, and you need to prove to them why you need it.

Most MG Ion, Medical, Coherent Lasers use a "A126" Key by Cherry-switch. I keep a pile of them around the lab.

Steve

[LightningStalker]

Go retune it, your missing at least two lines.

It's only running at 25mW.

[SoulFeast]

Well I was going to say call a locksmith, but it looks like you have that part figured out.
Quote:
You could try connecting two 115VAC fans in series. Unless there is a current transformer
shunt, or something else to actually detect the presence of the motor coils, I don't see how
this could be the problem.
End Quote"

There is a current shunt, looking for a minimum size fan, on more modern MGs, on ILTs, and some of the JDSUs. With modern fans, connecting in series is ill advised. Its actually looking for a very large impedance.

There is no schematic for the modern PSUs, and we are unlikely to ever get one. Most laser Power Supplies now come from LaserDrive, and their policy is no schematics. Just getting a connector pinout from them can take 2-3 days, and you need to prove to them why you need it.

Most MG Ion, Medical, Coherent Lasers use a "A126" Key by Cherry-switch. I keep a pile of them around the lab.

Steve

I've got it all figured out.

Using a key from Sam, will get a copy and send it back. This is the one ion PSU key that's different from the bunch, including 230, and 115VAC PSUs.

Still getting a proper fan for it for around $25+shipping just to have it "proper" and have a fan for it that is meant for it, so I don't need to worry about an underpowered fan. Only then will I crank it up higher.

It's only running at 25mW.

Yes, this. It's at around 25-30% power right now, as I am not feeling comfortable with running any higher with this fan. Near idle, about 10%, I am getting yellow and some blue in. A very yellow heavy "white".

Even at higher powers, the other lines that aren't in have a <4mW gain, so I wouldn't expect them at currents this low. Yes, currently missing 3 blue lines, but I also suspect an alignment issue. The highest gain line, the 657 (rated 25mW) is outputting as low as the 483 (<8mW rated). So that's bothersome.

I fire it up in phases, bring it to 25%, and let it run for whatever I need to do for around 10-15mins, then I power it off, letting the fun run to cool it down. Once I feel cool air for a bit, I do the same. This allows me to make whatever adjustments that I need to without jeopardizing the health of the tube.

Also, there is no way in hell that I would return this... It's from eBay anyway, sold for parts. A working air-cooled whitelight for $165 shipped...yeah, no, I am happy with this, more than ecstatic. I've wanted one of these for a couple years now. Low output is greatly outweighed by the white light that it emits.

[Galvonaut]

SoulFeast: I thought you were in the military? I'd have been on a charge for dust like that in my room

[SoulFeast]

I am!

I must admit, when projects like these arise, little petty tasks like cleaning, eating, and sleeping, fall to lower priorities than they should be

Weren't you at SELEM? I was that skinny ass, tall redhead that showed up the first day in uniform. Didn't have time to change