First complete test run setup--(Electronically/Mechanically)

[nnasire]

Ran into another wall, might have the solution in Monday when the Alias 8 MIDI controller arrives? Until then, hmm..

Prior to any communication inputs, my red,green, and blue lasers were functioning fine. Had a nice 3W white beam.

Once I plugged everything in to eachother (DAC-[EasylaseII], ILDA board, LSX[basic], RGB Lasers) I began to struggle to produce a beam/image/color/projection.

However, the galvanometers ARE vibrating @40Kpps to what ever is on the timeline in LSX. Color Buffers seem to be in the same channel.. I'm not sure what I'm missing?

I'll be glad to include anything I missed in the 3 images that lacks visual and/or informational detail..

Thanks in advance

[dnar]

I can't lay my hands on the PT trust board manual, but I do see you don't have the DIP switch board connected. I recall you must set switch one on for ILDA mode.

[dkumpula]

I can't lay my hands on the PT trust board manual, but I do see you don't have the DIP switch board connected. I recall you must set switch one on for ILDA mode.

Here's a link to the PT-iTrust board: http://www.te-lighting.com/eng/suppo...how%20card.pdf

I believe Dnar is correct about needing the dip switches connected. Flipping switch 10 to On tells it go to DMX mode - which will then default to ILDA when a cable and DAC are connected to it.

Also, I think I see that you have the red wires going to ground and the black wires going to + on your iTrust board. Diode drivers use the color code convention the other way around. That would account for the scanners doing what they should but the lasers not lasing.

[kl79]

Hello,

Also, I think I see that you have the red wires going to ground and the black wires going to + on your iTrust board.

That´s it, reverse the wire of output modulation and it will be ok.
And you dont need anything else, as you plug a dac, the board will split into "ilda mode"
If you unplug it, it goes into " demo mode"
Mickael

[nnasire]

You're all saints, thank you so much. After just graduating college, the potential education in these threads exceeds most, if not many college courses.

Somehow during the process, my red laser decided to take a rest and not spit out any red light. Fans attached the laser module are spinning nice and fast. This is how the driver looks when everything is turned on: http://i.imgur.com/8Y4lQ77.jpg
Might be difficult to see, but the laser driver has 2 light indicators adjacent to each other, however only one of them is on.. hmm
I also placed a strip of black electrical tape over the top of one of the batteries(this is because I noticed a little battery leakage seeping out the top, hope I've done enough McGyver-ing to it?

I'll triple check all the cable management just to be safe, not sure what went wrong..perhaps a trained eye can tell?

I can post more pictures if necessary..


edit: I forgot to mention the red laser beam itself is more like a 'square' laser beam. semi-thick..(fills most area surface of the Dichroic mirror). I remember reading a thread about laser-beam-thickness issues? Trying to throw as much information out that I have that might address the issue..

[Galvonaut]

Any leakage of the capacitor that has the tape on is bad. I would stop using it until you have replaced it. They are cheap and easy to replace if you can solder. Just be aware that the circuit board looks multilayer, so be careful not to damage the platings and make sure that the solder flows right through the board (watch for bubbling as it sucks though).

[edit] I've just had another look at your picture and noticed it might be sat in potting compound. If it is, it might be harder to fix. I would probably do a Heath Robinson-like repair myself. [/edit]

Damaged capacitors can cause all sorts of problems.

Keith

[kl79]

And you can use the analogue input on the driver, the easylase will do the job.

[nnasire]

I would probably do a Heath Robinson-like repair myself.

Damaged capacitors can cause all sorts of problems.

http://i.imgur.com/GuEtzjH.jpg forgot to include an image key for indications.. but hopefully it is suffice-- would having such long exposed capacitor +/- 'legs' work? Potting compound for circuit boards seems so silly..

[Galvonaut]

http://i.imgur.com/GuEtzjH.jpg forgot to include an image key for indications.. but hopefully it is suffice-- would having such long exposed capacitor +/- 'legs' work? Potting compound for circuit boards seems so silly..

Not silly for manufacturers - it usually guarantees that people can't copy or repair their goods, meaning more sales. For the rest of us, it's a pain in the arse!

I would probably repair it as you suggested. I would carefully cut the capacitor can with cutters to ensure maximum leg length (be careful of nasty, smelly capacitor juice and fluff) then cut the legs on the new capacitor to make them as short as you can and still solder it on ok. I don't know if the extra leg length would cause any problems - I doubt it. Just be careful that they aren't so long that they will short.

Keith

[nnasire]

Surgery is finished, still no favorable results :/

http://i.imgur.com/qXIIRwS.jpg

There's a good amount of solder wire guts..for extra security. Even switched back and forth from Analog+ to TTL inputs..

I noticed inside LSX, my lasers wont project any unique colors[teal, purple, etc] primarily ONLY Green and Blue at the moment.

Should I screen shot every option page in LSX?
Maybe redo the +/- soldering job of the capacitor?

Last resort would be to re-order the driver board.. d'oh.. not another 3 weeks of shipping..