It all starts here...

[TechJunkie]

Check out Planters video here....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMonZHMTra4

He uses what looks to be decent posts. Pre drilled and easily cut. Not sure the tech name for them though.

[WolfMax]

Looks good. What software are you using? Im a little jealous of your power supply and driver models, but cant be bothered to make mine better.

I used DesignSpark Mechanical which is free from RS components. Very easy to learn and RS released it for use with their 3D printers they sell. Works with DesignSpark PCB software (also free) so you can create a circuit board then make a housing for it.

As far as the SS posts go, The idea is to have them machined at the same time as the plates by the same engineering company who should be equipped to deal with the material. I chose SS as mild steel will react with the ally plates and ally posts may strip threads too easily.

If you get DesignSpark, Shoot me a PM with an email address and I'll send you the files for the various bits.

[Nemo222]

I'm a Cad design engineer so I do all my modeling in Solidworks so not much help there. That said people are always asking me about good free cad packages so I'll definitely take a look at design spark

It's true that you can get galvanic corrosion between Al and steel but you really don't have to worry about it unless you plan on setting this thing up permanently outdoors on the coastline, or underwater. I do agree that threading al is not the best option. Tapping into the posts is an alternative though, then you have longer thread engagement and less force on each thread. When you're machine shop gives you a price ask out of curiosity how much different it would be if you were making them of mild steel.

[WolfMax]

I'm a Cad design engineer so I do all my modeling in Solidworks so not much help there. That said people are always asking me about good free cad packages so I'll definitely take a look at design spark

Can SolidWorks import AutoCAD dxf files? If so , I can send you the files in that format (or OBJ, STL or XAML whatever that is!). Just say the word!

[Nemo222]

Dxf is about as standard as it gets, pretty much EVERYTHING supports dxf's. That said dxf Is a 2d file format only. I can take stl files but so much data is lost and there is some wonkynes to contend with. I thank you for the offer but it's alright. Overall size and hole patterns are the only thing that matters and I have that.

[WolfMax]

Check out Planters video here....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMonZHMTra4

He uses what looks to be decent posts. Pre drilled and easily cut. Not sure the tech name for them though.

They look like threaded bar that runs down through the corner posts. And while stainless threaded rod is easily available, it's a lot of mucking around with nuts and washer to get the top deck level and at the correct height.

[WolfMax]

Dxf is about as standard as it gets, pretty much EVERYTHING supports dxf's.

Shame I can only export and not import dxf files. What is the industry standard file format for 3d data files?

[Nemo222]

IGES (international graphics exchange something) and STEP are about as standard as it comes for 3d formats. in both cases there is a lot of variance in exactly HOW software handles the particular model but for the most part they are inter-compatible. This is only in the bulk sense however, In Solidworks and the other parametric modelers all the parametric data is usually lost when saving to non-native formats. Naturally that is done intentionally to prevent cross collaboration between CAD package and lock people to one.

Those corner standoffs used in Planters video are some form of aluminum extrusion that holds the side panels on too. Probably too big and bulky since you already have a case in mind. ( have no idea what I'm going to put mine in. somebody here suggested a lunchbox and that idea kinda stuck. I might just plasma cut one too.) If I were using those I would tap the center hole of the extrusion and drop a socket head cap screw in them instead of using threaded rod which the acorn nut on top definitely implies he is using threaded rod. You could get some generic steel tubing the right size, cut that to length and use them as your standoffs with threaded rod holding everything together. Probably won't come out any cheaper than your machined standoffs though.

Still think your awfully ambitions on the stainless but not my project so I'll just be over here with my aluminum and my toy projector smaller than a sheet of paper.

[WolfMax]

Right. Plans are complete and I am taking them and the materials to a machine shop tomorrow but it might be a couple of weeks before I get it all back.

In the mean time, I will be playing with my LaserScan 170 RGY that's now a 300 RGB and putting a Laserscan 1000 3d RGB controller board in it to give it built in patterns that are RGB instead of the RGY the current board can only do. And as the Laserscan 1000 had ILDA in and out, I hope that ether I can get the controller to detect when I plug an ILDA cable in to disable the 'show' card or the controller has an ILDA option that allows the ILDA signals through it. What ever, I'm going to have fun finding out!

[Nemo222]

I'm going to start machining some of my parts this weekend. I have mirror mounts, the laser block, and my galvo shim ready to go. I cant quite drill my base plate yet until I have some more parts but I will square up the stock and maybe swirl the surface just because I can and it will look awesome.

My lasers are scheduled to arrive Tuesday and my flexmod's later next week. Shipping from within the continent is awesome!

Actually, If somebody was able, I am getting the Diode bundle from DTR too and I would like a very accurate measurement on the diameter of the copper part of the laser housing module, If somebody had a pair of calipers or even better, a micrometer that they could throw on I would appreciate it. They are said to be 12mm, but I want to know is that 12.1 mm, or 11.95mm since it matters for tight fits and heat transfer into my laser block. If I cant get this info Ill just hold out machining my laser block until next week when mine arrive.