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Thread: DT30 riser plate.

  1. #21
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    Thank you men.
    “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” ― Bernard M. Baruch

    "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    ― Benjamin Franklin; stairwell plaque in the Statue of Liberty

    "And so shines a good deed in a weary world." - Willy Wonka

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  2. #22
    swamidog's Avatar
    swamidog is online now Jr. Woodchuckington Janitor III, Esq.
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    this is a nice feature. it is kind of a pain to directly mount the scanner blocks. i've used dave's risers in a couple of my builds. they are recommended.

    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    The second function it has is to allow the scanners to be fitted from above, rather than having to do a acre up from underneath the table.

    Dave
    suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.

  3. #23
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    How's this for a rule of thumb:

    Measure (to the nearest what ever the thickness of the beams are) the general height of all the laser beams with the modules sitting on the base and make a note of the differences if any (we'll use these figures later). See where the highest one hits the galvo block in relation to the lowest galvo mirror centre with the block also sitting on the base. If it's (a) too high, measure the general difference and make a shim for the galvo block that size. Or (b) too low, measure the general difference and make a shim that size to raise the laser module (remember this value).
    For situation (a), Use the values you got from the beginning and make a shim for each of the two lowest beams the thickness of the difference between it and the highest beam.
    For situation (b), do the same but add the value you remembered (you did remember right?). You should now have all the beams roughly parallel and hitting the lower galvo mirror in the middle, then just use the mirrors to do the fine tuning.

    How accurate you want to be with the shims is up to you. Obviously the more accurate the less you will need to do with the mirrors but the more difficult they will be to make.

    Any use or am I trying to teach egg sucking etc?
    Cheers

    Colin.

    Anyone wanting to be a politician, should automatically be excluded from being one!

  4. #24
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    Very clear, thanks Colin. Shims are a lot cheaper than mirror mounts.

    Mark
    “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” ― Bernard M. Baruch

    "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    ― Benjamin Franklin; stairwell plaque in the Statue of Liberty

    "And so shines a good deed in a weary world." - Willy Wonka

    6 Steps To Prevent You From Getting SCAMMED On The Internet CLICK

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechJunkie View Post
    Very clear, thanks Colin. Shims are a lot cheaper than mirror mounts.

    Mark
    You will still need adjustable mirror mounts to get the mirror angles precise. It's just if you have a level playing field to start with, it makes things a lot easier.
    Cheers

    Colin.

    Anyone wanting to be a politician, should automatically be excluded from being one!

  6. #26
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    I do have 3 mounts. One bounce, and 2 MM1 dicro mounts.

    Now I just need the scanners.
    “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” ― Bernard M. Baruch

    "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    ― Benjamin Franklin; stairwell plaque in the Statue of Liberty

    "And so shines a good deed in a weary world." - Willy Wonka

    6 Steps To Prevent You From Getting SCAMMED On The Internet CLICK

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