Yes.. Yes, you Can 'be green' with an Ion..

[dsli_jon]

...thought that would be 'ambiguous-enough' to get some clicks..

The 'real Title' / subject, here is: How to 'DIY' a very-efficient Heat Exchanger for running a mid-frame Ion laser - closed-loop - without a hi-power' / very heavy / expensive 'chiller'...
Here's the set-up:



- Core-Components: 1x 30 Gallon 'Baytec' closed-drum barrel, w/ optional 3/4" drain-port (inlet) fitting in base; 1x Little Giant Pump Co. 'Marine / Large-Aquarium' Pump; PVC-plumbing / valves, as-shown; 2x Lytron 6340G2 (or equivalent..) Radiator / Fan HEx-units, in-series, Housing / dressing, build-up as-shown, or as-per-choice.. Everything - including Pump - all runs off 110V, nice and clean.. No heavy / costly / 220Vsucking / nasty-Freon-drinking 'chillers' need-apply. I am happy to supply more-specific details for anyone that is actually / seriously interested in building one of these, but.. for the moment, just wanted to a) show the 'overview' of the sys / setup, and b) testify how well it works..

..Right now, we're running a Coherent Purelight (I-70 tube..) at the 'DMNS', at a full 42-45A, for 8 hrs a show-nite, and this thing barely breaks a sweat.. not even *close* to 'hot'.. I'm pretty-sure you could run a Lexxie 88 or similar small-frame off of only one of the two HEx-units.. And, this set-up has been in the past with a tube as large as an I-90 MRA (..as long as you can keep the 'ambient' under about 80˚, and allow plenty of 'breathing-room'..) and also an American 909.. but I bet it would even handle a Lex 95 or SP Chroma10.. maybe even an I-200.. But, those are less-likely to still be in-use by anyone in this community.. The small / mid-frame WL's, however, seem to still be in-use by some..

..So, now, there's no more excuses for crappy beam-quality at those 'outdoor EDM-fests', eh?? ......Whats that? 'Why still use an Ion WL'??...

..Duuuh!

Sure, even with this closed-loop rig, you still have the '3Ø-needs' for the Laser, but.. nothing a few hundred hamster-driven genny-wheels and a small cap-farm can't handle.. (..then, you'd be 100% 'green', but... I suppose you'd prolly get 'PETA' all-up yer..

fwiw..
j

PS - Also, put to use at DMNS, these Magnet-bases (Master Magnetics #7223, ie: http://hardwareonlinestore.com/index...FQYGvAodl4IAng)
..work *great* for mounting bounce-mirrors on any steel / iron posts / beams / otherwise hard to 'clamp-to' surfaces. Even on an all-alum truss corner-box or surface w/ no steel, etc, just get yerself a 'standard electrical junction-box' cover-plate, and you can screw that to / ziptie-strap-to your surface, and *ka-chunk* - instant, quick-adjust mir-mount, via the mag-base.. Great for SELEMs, n such..
fwiw

[Photonbeam]

That looks great Jon! I don't know about the Coherents or Lexels, but be careful trying this with the old Spectra Physics 164/165 or 171 series ions. The cooling water is in direct contact with the anode and needs to be de-ionized. I learned this the hard ($$) way.

[Laserhobbit]

Hi Photonbeam,

Really surprised about your comment re the SP 164/171 etc. I have run these on plain old Uk tap water for the last 30 years and have never had an issue, must have run into hundreds of shows. Has anyone else ever had an issue, I have begun to worry now, have I just been lucky ???

Cheers

Steve

[Photonbeam]

Steve - Tap water through the laser and then down the drain is fine. But in a closed circuit recirculating system the water continuously in contact with the anode can build up ions and eventually become conductive enough to arc through the water. -Steve

[dave]

What about all that power the ion is drawing? Solar panels maybe!

[mixedgas]

I circulate a rust and scale remover through old 164/165s. Often results in a lower tube current for a given output power as a cooler anode seal is a happier anode seal. The trick is to not pick a material that eats the Kovar metal. I use a recirculating loop with diluted, warm, CLR solution , and then flush with ample water for about 20 mins before firing the tube. If there is a problem, you'll see a initial pile of "Gunk" in the bottom of the pump bucket in 1-2 minutes.

Usually if the Cathode Bell cooling is cloudy, its time to flush the anode.

On a truly closed loop system, for long term use, Coherent uses(ed) a Oxygen Removal filter, but you do not want a Deionized water loop for a Ion laser. SP and Coho manuals warn against that. Distilled water is preferred.

In some places, tap water is just fine. (Except most of Florida!, I've had huge problems with Florida lasers)

CLR:

http://tinyurl.com/pbnc7r9

Steve

[gashead]

IHave been looking into building something similar for a while now to run at uklem. Mainly because we are paranoid about how much aqua you can put thru an ion over a three day (and night) weekend !

So thanks Jon, my 168 doesn't run very hot anyway so I suspected something like this would work.

You can't buy CLR here, and on my last trip stateside I forgot to buy some and pack into my second bag that the company paid for me to bring back. (Containing lucky charms, fruit loops,reese's pieces cereal) you know all the good stuff you can't buy in the UK because EU law prohibits it being called breakfast foods!

Damnit.

[dsli_jon]

...You can't buy CLR here, and on my last trip stateside I forgot ...

..If'n yer willing to put-in for a 'bit o' xtra shipp'n', I'll gladly send ya some " fog juice " *coff coff, wink wink* with yer other little package (..very-soon to sail, btw.. mid-July.. finally
You did order a '1/2 gallon of fog juice' didn't ya, Nige? ...And I doubt UK customs will break out the gas-chromatograph, ya?

Lemme know.
j

[DZ]

"ONE LASER, have a nice day..."

HAHAHA! I love it!