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Thread: FB3 USB over CAT5e Pelican Case

  1. #1
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    Aug 2013
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    Default FB3 USB over CAT5e Pelican Case

    Well after some consideration, and inspiration from other members (Norty303 & FourDee), I have decided to take this on and build my own remote fb3 box. It will be built into a very small 1150 Pelican Case with a USB over cat5e extender

    It will have Dual DB25 outputs for each FB3, Neutrik Power in, and Neutrik EtherCon in.

    I have two ideas.. but i doubt i will be able to fit a usb hub and its power supply inside the case for a 5th external fb3 via Neutrik USB panel mount

    Attachment 44198

    Attachment 44199

    Designed in FrontPanelExpress. Id be happy to share the project file with anyone wanting to do the same




    Insipred by FourDee's creation
    Attachment 44201
    Attachment 44200

    Parts:

    D-Sub parts and ribbon cable acquired from Aletx.com for $70
    Neutrik EtherCon and PowerCon acquired from FullCompassSystems.com for $17
    1150 Pelican Case and Panel Frame Kit acquired from Pelican-Cases.com for $61
    StarTech USB2004EXT2 4 port USB 2.0 over CAT5e Extender Acquired from Newegg.com for $326
    Front Panel from Frontpanelexpress.com $75

    Total $549 including taxes and shipping

    Attachment 44202Attachment 44203Attachment 44204Attachment 44205
    Last edited by JD3; 07-30-2014 at 06:36.
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  2. #2
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    Default

    I left a bit of space below the DB25 connectors so i can use my label maker to add the serial number of the FB3. Just so its not permanent
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  3. #3
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    Default

    I like this idea except that the lid has to be open the whole time. If the lid somehow gets closed then it crimps all the connections. Other than that.. I really like this idea.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by drm916 View Post
    I like this idea except that the lid has to be open the whole time. If the lid somehow gets closed then it crimps all the connections. Other than that.. I really like this idea.
    haha yea, I would be sure to locate the box somewhere that wouldn't happen
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD3 View Post
    haha yea, I would be sure to locate the box somewhere that wouldn't happen
    too bad there isn't an easy way to remove the lid.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by drm916 View Post
    too bad there isn't an easy way to remove the lid.
    i could incorporate some type of hinged lid support/prop
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  7. #7
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    Default

    I can recommend adding 1 or 2 external USB connectors for a number of reasons. With the addition of a USB to DVI/HDMI adaptor you suddenly have EMULaser outputs at the stage too

    Regarding the lid, personally i would look for one that is deep enough (the lid) to accommodate the cables with the lid shut. All you need to do then is create a slot for the cables to exit, dense rubberised foam around the aperture, and suddenly your ILDA box is IP rated

    Also, think about estops, like we discussed. I'll be getting a proper relay PCB board made up for mine, and I'll probably have to have 10 made, so can send one over when they're done.
    Frikkin Lasers
    http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  8. #8
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    Atlanta Ga USA
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    I like the idea of the USB to HDMI. I am going to use that idea when I build mine.

    And I really like that panel from frontpanelexpress. I am going to have to look into that.

  9. #9
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    Houston
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    Alright im going to try the external usb option.
    I might have to rip apart the power supply for the usb hub and solder some wires from the powercon to it. to save space.
    I dont know if i can squeeze a 2nd usb port on that panel...
    I might consider putting the powercon on the back side of the pelican case. they have waterproof/airtight ones.
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  10. #10
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    Location
    Houston
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    Attachment 44206

    hows this look?

    2 cutouts for usb, 1 for powercon, 1 for ethercon
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

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