One E-Stop, many outs

[norty303]

Well, as there is no standard for these things, that is the first thing you need to find out, before planning on making any changes to it.

[johnmcc]

Yes I will have a look into this before making any changes be easier when I can sit down and draw it out

[norty303]

Ok, so here's my recently finished relay board in the context of the stage box.

It is driven by the interlock socket, which is conected to the estop via cat5 cable. 5V power comes from the USB extender PSU in the stage box.
You can see in the pics how the relays tie into the ILDA 4/17 lines, and also how each run has it's own isolated loop, each switched by its own dedicated switch, even where they are driven by the same DAC.

On the projector side, each projector has an ILDa breakout board (DZE mkIII) that allows me to take off the interlock loop and drive another relay which is connected to one of the interlock headers on my safety board (Guido's from my laserpage.de). I have to do it via a relay as the safety board uses optocouplers, so i made a simple daughterboard that piggy backs on the safty board.

So i hit the estop, the relay in the stage box goes open, the breakout board goes open, which causes the relay driving the safety board interlock to go open, and the lasers stop! Note that the scanner and everything else keep running, as moving scanners are inherently more safe than stopped ones (imho)

For the pass-thru, DZE's board passes through everything apart from the interlock loop. The passthru for this is via another relay, so when you hit the estop, as well as causing this projector to stop, it also opens the relay on the interlock loop for the next projector in the chain (and that projector simply processes the loop going open exactly as the first one, and so on, and so on, up the chain)

I hope that makes sense!


Attachment 44455 Attachment 44456 Attachment 44457

[stanwax]

I have only just seen this thread. The function of my board is explained in detail in the manual that can be downloaded from my main web site.
In short the interlock loop is a 12v feed through a low value resistor for short circuit protection, this loops through ilda lead, keyswitch and remote interlock and if broken will force a hard reset of the chip.
The manual also details how to link multiples, this is done using 3 conductors between the projectors, start, stop and common. The stop line is independant of the previosly described loop but acts on the same reset line. This has the effect of providing a stop function for all the chained projectors, but each projector will still 'stop' itself should for example the ilda lead come off (breaking the projectors own interlock loop), without affecting any others in the chain.
The daisy chain can be a single run, or can Y split anywhere to ease wiring. In the future there will be an accessory option providing the same connections I currently use when Im doing shows, this provides 9-pin to XLR connectors meaning that the projectors can be linked using readily available XLR leads. Also its often possible to get out of one cable run by using house XLR patches to run from stage to FOH - which is nice.
I use a 5 pin cable to link back to the FOH stop but only so I can see the Status LED, and the wiring is done with a convention that if I only have the option of a 3 pin XLR run i keep all the function and loose just the LED.
I hope this helps explain how my system works but please have a look at the boards manual for more info - or drop me an email

Rob

[drm916]

I can attest that the Stanwax v1.3 and later setup works great! Its really nice to have to just run one 9 pin to stage for all the estops. I just ordered a few more stanwax ilda boards 2 days ago so I can upgrade some other projectors.

I might would be interested in the 5pin or 3 pin xlr option. I do however like having the status LED on the estop box.

[Bradfo69]

Grr... I just got all the $100 worth of bits in to try the daisy chaining method for my Pluto's. Splitters, cables in various necessary lengths, etc., and it doesn't work.

As soon as I connect the next projector in line, it allows the first projector to output regardless of e-stop button position. I'm using Lightspace's e-stop. Then their cable to a Y splitter that's plugged into the back of the Pluto. Then to another cable to the next splitter, plugged into the next Pluto. The estop works as it should right up until I plug that end in.

I probably didn't think this through as well as I should.

They all actually need the Stanwax board installed anyway so, maybe not all is lost.

[drm916]

If you have stanwax boards in.. then you have to make a new estop box. The stanwax estop uses a different setup and pin configuration than the plutos. Call me if you have any questions about it. Mine work fine with the stanwax estop pin configuration.

Johnathon

[Draco]

Not sure if this would apply as there is a bit if room for error but they have available wireless relay controllers on fleabay that run in the 400 MHz range, there are multi relay modules that can be set up for a latching mode, the idea is working that into a hard wired system that would still work with a normal e-stop but would have the added function of a wireless panic button that you can carry with you, I have been testing a kit sold by Jaycar , their remote switch seems to be reliable with in 100 feet and transmits on 433MHz.
Not sure if this would apply to your needs but it was a thought

[Colin290]

Great Idea, I've just ordered one of these! say I had 3 projectors, I would use 2 of these splitters in sucession to give me three outputs for the Estop so?

Is this basically the same product?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/280706325316?...&cp=1#shpCntId

Cheers

I daisy chain all my projectors to 1 Estop using DB9 splitters (2 male 1 female) here is a link

http://www.amazon.co.uk/RS232-Serial.../dp/B004C4XPXE

I would really like to know what pins are not used in the Ilda cable to wire through that. I have 2 swisslas units and that's how their Estop works and I find it such a better idea than running a separate cable. I might re wire my other projectors so that they can all work by Estop through ilda.

[dave]

Heres what I do

I have FB4's in or beside all lasers now, run combo power/ethernet to each laser.

The power distro has a KVANT power board built into it to enable a large contactor to supply or kill power to the lasers.

No more ILDA cables, which I loathe! And the combo cable makes setup / packdown so much quicker, as well as meaning there is the bare minimum of cable to forget.

Since the distro uses the KVANT power board, the Estop runs down 3 pin xlr, so I either tap into a audio patch to FOH, or convert to ethernet and run down the spare ethernet cable..