Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: How to open a GSI Lumonics G120DT laser scanner?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    3,316

    Default

    Finally recieved the proper allen wrench. It was 0.050inch for me and not 1/16
    I am pretty sure this is what they mean with a broken torsion bar.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1699.JPG 
Views:	18 
Size:	1.61 MB 
ID:	45587

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    1 hr from everything in SoCal
    Posts
    2,764

    Default

    That would be it. And it is also typical for where it broke too. They normally break right at the base of the rotor. Not sure it is from thermal stress or from the wobble and jitter. Regardless, every broken spring from a G-series galvo that i have seen has always been right at the rotor.
    If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.

  3. #23
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is online now Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,902

    Default

    Make a circular tool that fits over the shaft. Push the top bearing down thru the galvo. It only goes out thru the hub, do not try to push it out the top. See if there is a silver solder joint on the rotor. If there is, and if there is a silver solder joint on the base, with care, a new torsion wire may be formed from the proper high tension piano wire.

    Perhaps some day I'll walk you thru it. The rezeroing process is quite involved. Best to get a new one.

    Steve
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    3,316

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mixedgas View Post
    Make a circular tool that fits over the shaft. Push the top bearing down thru the galvo. It only goes out thru the hub, do not try to push it out the top. See if there is a silver solder joint on the rotor. If there is, and if there is a silver solder joint on the base, with care, a new torsion wire may be formed from the proper high tension piano wire.

    Perhaps some day I'll walk you thru it. The rezeroing process is quite involved. Best to get a new one.

    Steve
    I got a working one underway that I can use along with the already working one I have.
    (Thank you so much DZ!)

    I had opened up the unit *without breaking it further for learning from it* and had talked to Brian Bennington about the process. I tried to grip on the shaft to pull it out at first but with a bit of carefull trying I assumed that this wasn't possible.

    I had a tool which perfectly fit to push/tap out the entire shaft assembly (the antenna of a cheap portable FM radio) and put it back together for storing purposes.. you never know really and spare parts are never a miss.
    I heard about a piano string before as well but had never seen it when I removed the back cover to take a look what was inside.
    * removed the glue bond with a small flathead screwdriver scraping away the glue on each side.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1704.JPG 
Views:	20 
Size:	1.13 MB 
ID:	45594 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1712.JPG 
Views:	18 
Size:	1.44 MB 
ID:	45595
    Last edited by masterpj; 12-09-2014 at 16:19.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    3,316

    Default

    I'm looking in ways to see if both ends can be joined back together.. maybe one of the jewelry welding methods would work?
    Right now I'm thinking of micro tig welding or laser welding... though both methods likely are very expensive.. but it's an interesting thought.


    I think the enviroment and tools needed are factory level though.. I think it should unlikely to get a hold off but it would be cool to weld a whole bunch of torsion bars and have those as spares or parts to repair others.

    Possibly welding on some kind of jig could work. I'm just brainstorming for something I might try sometime with a homebuild setup.
    Last edited by masterpj; 12-10-2014 at 12:46. Reason: adding more to the thought + reconsideration + even more input

  6. #26
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is online now Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,902

    Default

    Welding them at the break is bad, it adds many extra resonances to the scanner. BTDTGTS.

    Ordinary butane-air or propane-air torch melts the silver solder just fine.

    The Wire is common and easily replaced. You straighten it by hanging a weight from it, over night.
    Then you solder it in.

    Steve
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    3,316

    Default

    With the wire you mean the snapped off piece from the torsion bar?...
    Wait so the torsion bar is attached with solder? Its not actually snapping off it's the solder joint breaking?
    If so that's rather interesting!!!

    Edit: removing torsion bar again to look for silver joint

    Edit #2: I think I know what the silver joint is.. its not a very small blob but rather a very precise circular part where the thin metal "wire" is soldered into but perfectly straight.
    I hope I'm not completely mistaken here.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	wire.png 
Views:	15 
Size:	1.99 MB 
ID:	45631
    Last edited by masterpj; 12-10-2014 at 15:46. Reason: more info + added image

  8. #28
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is online now Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
    Infinitus Excellentia Ion Laser Dominatus
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    A lab with some dripping water on the floor.
    Posts
    9,902

    Default

    Its silver soldered at the rotor and either welded or silver soldered at the hub. You grasp the rotor with a heat sink when soldering, so you do not cook the oil in the bearing. All that is required is symmetry, when installed the torsion bar is under moderate tension.

    Steve
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    3,316

    Default

    Thanks I get it now!
    I will give this a go later today! But first: time to get some sleep.
    I really apreciate your time and patience Steve I owe you bigtime for this.
    Last edited by masterpj; 12-11-2014 at 16:55.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •