Cheap analog driver??

[djeric68]

I see all three headers. GM RM and BM inputs are there. It's the green laser output that is not apparent. It's there, though. If you zoom in on the second pic, you can see +G- on the 6-pin header next to the red. I have to say, I think it's cool that they put outputs for cooling fans too.

Now that I looked closer at the picture I see that it is for green. But why 6 pins? And what is the TS for, temp switch?

Looking at the board, I realized it looks very similar to the driver for a cheap RGB brick I have. That might explain the TS, since the green in my brick has an RTD glued into the heat sink for temperature feedback. But why not make the header green like the red & blue? Also on my brick the green header is a two pin green plastic header (not 6), and the RTD has its own header. The brick also has separate headers for fans like this board has. My brick is TTL modulation, not analog.

I look forward to hearing your experience with the driver once you get it and get a chance to play around with it. I hope it works as advertised and everyone can benefit. I would buy a few if it turns out to be a good option.

[Elektrotechniker]

I just got a reply from the seller. They claim the modulation bandwidth is 20KHz

[absolom7691]

Now that I looked closer at the picture I see that it is for green. But why 6 pins? And what is the TS for, temp switch?

Looking at the board, I realized it looks very similar to the driver for a cheap RGB brick I have. That might explain the TS, since the green in my brick has an RTD glued into the heat sink for temperature feedback. But why not make the header green like the red & blue? Also on my brick the green header is a two pin green plastic header (not 6), and the RTD has its own header. The brick also has separate headers for fans like this board has. My brick is TTL modulation, not analog.

I look forward to hearing your experience with the driver once you get it and get a chance to play around with it. I hope it works as advertised and everyone can benefit. I would buy a few if it turns out to be a good option.

Not sure why 6 pins. I was wondering the same thing. I am going to try this out on my single-mode rig and see how it performs. If it doesn't do too well, it is going to end up in my lumia. I will be sure to let you guys know what I find. I don't have an o-scope so, I can't really give any readings outside of how it performs, visually.

[Datsurb]

Not sure why 6 pins. I was wondering the same thing. I am going to try this out on my single-mode rig and see how it performs. If it doesn't do too well, it is going to end up in my lumia. I will be sure to let you guys know what I find. I don't have an o-scope so, I can't really give any readings outside of how it performs, visually.

Bevare that all theese drivers, made for 532nm modules, and as i recall that is 3v output, but the singlemode osram 520 diode requires 7-8 volt. I now that diodes are driven by the current, but the green diodes are to expensive to blow on a cheap driver not made for the task.

My guess for why the green output has 6pins, is that it also is used for tec cooling. I Often see 6-8 wires used on small cheap green chinamodules- Power - mod - fan - tec.

[dkumpula]

Good points, Datsurb.

I have to comment on your signature though. Specifically the last line "Nobody told me that this hobby was going to be a bottomless money pit".

To the best of my knowledge, it is MANDATORY for PL as a group to greet new posters with

(1) A warm welcome and
(2) A stern warning to abandon all hope for yee who enters the caverns of coherent light that there is no financial salvation to be had.

Perhaps you need another copy of that memo!

David

[Elektrotechniker]

any updates on this ?

[absolom7691]

It's funny that you posted here. I am actually wiring it up right now to give it a test. I am going to test on a 1W LED first though. I don't want to blow and LDs on this thing. It came with ZERO literature so, I'll be flying blind.

[absolom7691]

Okay, these are analog but they have no 0ma bias pot. If you're looking for a cheap, and I mean cheap (in all aspects of the word), this would suit you fine. It seems pretty stable. The fact that there is no 0 bias, really makes it unsuitable for projector use outside of "TTL" with the ability to attenuate, in-software. I haven't checked the green channel yet on it though. This will probably suit my needs for my lumia as I don't need precision modulation. I am just going to be fading in and out slowly.

It's getting late I need to get to bed. I'll post a video tomorrow.

[WolfMax]

You could use a Stanwax colour correction board with one of these. Set up the driver for full power from the lasers, then use the Offset and Gain controls on the colour board to set the lower and upper limits. The board also has tuning for matching the lasers rising/falling signal edges when blanking to reduce tails on the colours. It comes as a daughter board for Stanwax's ILDA interface board or as a stand alone board.

[LaserCo]

I found a site with better clues of what hooksup to what on this item


same board, this one says it is TTL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/637nm-638nm-...item35e07d6e61

This one is analogo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/637nm-638nm-...item35e07d9df1