Laserscope Modification

[Lightstream]

I've had a laserscope ktp/532 800 series sitting in storage since I bought it some time ago, and I've recently decided its time to modify the beast for show applications. Doing shows was a hobby of mine over 10 years ago but I've been out of the game for some time and I've only worked with med-large argons (2w - 16w), so this will be my first foray into the land of laserscopes.

In all the research I've been doing online and in these forums, it seems like detailed descriptions of how to modify these things are closely kept secrets. I can only imagine this is to keep the price of used systems down and to protect people from playing with extremely powerful lasers so that they do not hurt themselves, or worse, others. As much as I like to see information shared freely, I can understand and respect this.

That said, I could really use some information and pointers to help me with this project. My end goal is to remove unnecessary optics and interlocks, get it setup with a pair of galvos, and probably a third for blanking (It sounds like using the qswitch for blanking is a recipe for disaster), and also remove the onboard computer and replace it with my own computer/software that I am capable of creating. Additionally, if it is practical to feed a a remote scan head via fiber, I may add the necessary optics for this. However, between the power levels and divergence, I'm not sure if this practicable.

So would anyone be willing to share some information on procedures to go about the following:

1. Good way to test the system before doing any modifications.
2. Alignment / Optics cleaning
3. Removing / replacing computer control system
4. Removing unnecessary optics
5. Managing interlocks (how many are there, which can be defeated, which should remain)
6. Isolation transformer: Keep it or toss it?
7. Collimator setup - getting a tight beam

Any other tips, feedback, suggestions etc would be much appreciated.

Thank You!

[dsli_jon]

Hi LS,

Gotta jet, but please give shoot me a PM with a best time to call you (Ie: what time zone you are in..) tomorrow, and we'll chat / go from there...

cheers..
j

[mixedgas]

We had one disaster here with an individual. There are a couple of Youtube Videos we can show you if you want to see some imbecility. My favorite has the baby in the high chair in the room with the beams.

Not so much about keeping people down as keeping people safe. None of us are so naïve to think we can totally stop proliferation.

Jon can help you. Keep in mind there is a serious error or two with the on-line hack schematics. And no, "We" as a group did not insert the error in the poorly drawn schematic. Its that, a poorly drawn schematic. Rather bare bones, as the optocouplers really should be powered with 1.75$ 30 mA two terminal constant current chips instead of resistors. Its fairly easy to roast the inputs to the ALE and Qswitch.

Do keep the two overtemp, low water level, and both (if installed) flow sensors. There is a definite startup sequence / shutdown sequence and minimum lamp current you should respect. Try not to remove the intracavity shutter, its darn useful. The shutter needs a current limit applied. Also, don't ditch the variable polarizer.

If you can afford it, install a 200$ Go/No Go DI water sensor as well. Some of the modern "clone" DI carts are really bad.

I have a factory test fiber simulator I can sell you for cheap.

Steve

[turbohead]

If you can afford it, install a 200$ Go/No Go DI water sensor as well. Some of the modern "clone" DI carts are really bad.
Steve

Can you please expand on that DI water sensor? Perhaps provide a part number, website, or picture?

[mixedgas]

Can you please expand on that DI water sensor? Perhaps provide a part number, website, or picture?

This is actually a difficult measurement without spending some money. Perfect water is ~18.2 MegOhm/ Centimeters.

The problem is just sticking two metal probes in does not make a measurement. Good sensors use a AC bridge or capacitance based circuit to avoid electrochemistry effects from the metal probes that occur if you take a DC based measurement.
Even a fingerprint or slightly dissimilar metals on a DC based probe will mess you up. Thus this is an expensive sensor.
However if it saves you a ALE repair, its worth every penny.

One PLer does do a quick test with a DMM, but he's lucky and his personal DMM uses AC excitation.

Let me dig tomorrow and see what I can find. I'm working on scanner amps that need to ship right now.

Steve