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Thread: 9 Pin interlock Pin Outs

  1. #1
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    Default 9 Pin interlock Pin Outs

    Hi,

    I'm making up my own interlock cable. Can anyone tell me what the pin outs are on the 9 pin interlock connector?

    thanks

    Matt

  2. #2
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    As far as I'm aware there is no standard for inlerlock cables or pinouts.

    Each manufacturer got his own plug and pinout. Most chinese manufacturers use cheap 9 pin Dsub connectors, but those interlock systems don't comply with the standards, a simple example is when you pull the power plug from the projector an put it back the projector must never start. Most chinese cases with interlock start after a power restore. this is not complient with En60825.

    So its better to use your own interlock system which is complient with EN 60825

    A better plug to use is the 3 PIN or 5 PIN Neutrik XLR

    I use the ILDA cable to connect the interlock and start button

  3. #3
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    Hey Folks,

    Apologies for dredging up a relatively ancient post, but has a standard interlock 9pin D-sub pin connector been established during the past ~5 years since this question was asked? Just trying to be compliant with any defacto-standard. If not, I'll just pick two pins spaced reasonably far apart and on different rows.

    Thanks in advance!

    -David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

  4. #4
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    Nope, ILDA cares more about giving away awards nowadays then actually do what they supposed to do .....


    Interested in 6-12W RGB projectors with low divergence? Contact me by PM!

  5. #5
    mixedgas's Avatar
    mixedgas is offline Creaky Old Award Winning Bastard Technologist
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    Quote Originally Posted by edison View Post
    Nope, ILDA cares more about giving away awards nowadays then actually do what they supposed to do .....
    I'm glad you are now volunteering to be on the ILDA tech-comm.

    Steve
    Qui habet Christos, habet Vitam!
    I should have rented the space under my name for advertising.
    When I still could have...

  6. #6
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    Funny you should say that, Edison! ILDA actually covered a lot of ground from my view last week on both the technical and safety areas. It is not the second coming of "Laser Jesus", but as I'm sure official announcements are coming, I won't spoil anything.

    -David

    P.S. And considering most of our laser content dates back to the 80's and early 90's, if the ILDA awards encourage people to create fresh and/or innovative material, I think its one of the more important things that ILDA does.
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

  7. #7
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    I'm glad you are now volunteering to be on the ILDA tech-comm.
    Nah i think i will pass. Working with the ILDA team means wasting time on arguing how things should be and after 5 years it clearly shows that not much progress is made here. I probably have to rapport to mr brenner and his consorts and that feels almost like working for an employer. Second, i already picked another team


    Interested in 6-12W RGB projectors with low divergence? Contact me by PM!

  8. #8
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    i converted all my projectors to run Stanwax ilda boards. They dictate what my 9 pin cable layout is. Good thing is that the estops can be daisy chained. So you only need one estop. And you don't need a special estop break out box. Its all built into the stanwax boards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drm916 View Post
    i converted all my projectors to run Stanwax ilda boards. They dictate what my 9 pin cable layout is. Good thing is that the estops can be daisy chained. So you only need one estop. And you don't need a special estop break out box. Its all built into the stanwax boards.
    Yeah, that's probably the right answer, Johnathan. I've got two of these sitting here, but I planned on using at least one of them for my LS Pluto. I should pick up a few more and standardize my environment.

    David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

  10. #10
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    I just spent like $90 for what I thought was a solution with the Pluto's existing 9 pin interlock and discovered it didn't work as I had hoped. I need to switch them all to Stanwax boards anyway so, that should ultimately solve it.

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