dpss fail modes

[Draco]

Hello i may have posted thins in the wrong area so please forgive me if i did, i have a chinese made pointer that failed when i ran it on a power supply , i met every condition that o could think of and even ised it's simplistic controller and had at lest 80% fa;; on visible power, from saw 300 mw to less then 20 and the same input current, i think the pimp diode is the part at fault , the device was limited on current and the head only hit about 110F before the bean died off, are dpss the narrow in fail mode or did i do something wrong. more so is this something i can fix, the c mount pump diode still over ranges my shitty meter, and non of the optics or crystal look damaged. any help would be direly needed as this was my most powerful laser. if i can rebuild it, i will be a very happy creature indeed. it uses a C type mounted diode

[buffo]

Being that it's a pointer, the KTP and Vanadate are most likely bonded together in a single unit. So if you need to replace either one you have to replace both. Also, the damage may be very hard to see due to the small size.

If the pump diode is dead, it can be replaced, but there's no guarantee that you'll get the same power out.

A brand-new 300 mw bench-top green laser module can be had for ~ $150, so it's hard to justify repairing a pointer, unless you really need the pointer form factor...

Adam

[Draco]

that you for the input, i was able to inspect the ktp and it's over kill, from what i can gather its about 3mm square, don't know how deep. I did get a bench top laser as a replacement but that is giving me an odd problem, i get about 40-50mw at start up intermittently, I had ordered a TTL controlled device but they may have sent me an analog one, when it starts at 40mw and i pull the TTL to ground the beam blanks and when the ground is removed it runs at 200mw and seems to be stable, it may just be the controller wanting the correct temp from the TEC, i have been trying to contact the vendor. I am unable to draw a schematic of the controller because the manufacture sanded off the markings on all the important bits, Crystalaser did that as well on some units, they stopped doing that so i was able to make a schematic and repair the one unit that originally started this mess