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Thread: NUGM01T-520nm

  1. #1
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    Default NUGM01T-520nm

    Any one else try these yet? To me it appears to correct better and cleaner than the normal 1W 520nm. Power is very similar maybe slightly less at same current. I am wondering if the can plays into this correction as I did decan these.

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  2. #2
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    Lazeerer has done some testing on them. Power test shows them to be able to be pushed close to the same as the NDG7475 though the datasheet says they need more current to get to 1W on these vs the NDG7475 and rated max input is 2A where it was only 1.8A. They do have one less bond wire than the NDG7475 which I thought was interesting since the max current is higher on these.

  3. #3
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    Did he post the data somewhere? I am getting much better correction with 4x lens with this diode compared to 7475 (assuming that's the standard 1W).


    Quote Originally Posted by DTR View Post
    Lazeerer has done some testing on them. Power test shows them to be able to be pushed close to the same as the NDG7475 though the datasheet says they need more current to get to 1W on these vs the NDG7475 and rated max input is 2A where it was only 1.8A. They do have one less bond wire than the NDG7475 which I thought was interesting since the max current is higher on these.
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  4. #4
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    Hey Polishedball,

    How are you getting on with these diodes, do they come with the lens attached as shown on DTRs site, if so do they take a lot to remove, I'm just about to by 2 green diodes, and unsurw if I should try a pair of these of use the 7475 again, what lenses are you using, sorry for all the questions,

    Cheers Tony.
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  5. #5
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    The power ends up a little lower for these. The beam quality is very good using 4x lens. I was able to snap off the front lens very easy using the same method as on the 465nm blues.

    I use the g2 glass lens on them, but have switched to a new method on the 465nm that I want to try on the green, but can't yet as I need to buy another. What you do is leave on the factory lens and then just use the ccyclinder lens to set the final focus and correction. I hope that made sense. It works well on the blue.
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  6. #6
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    Thanks you, Looks like I better get a pair ordered up, the lower output will be offset by the better beam quality, Ill look up the technique for removing the factory lens,

    Tony
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyaztec View Post
    Thanks you, Looks like I better get a pair ordered up, the lower output will be offset by the better beam quality, Ill look up the technique for removing the factory lens,

    Tony
    Post 21 in this thread. http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...-9W-Diode-Test
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
    Lovely, nice and easy, Thanks again, Ill order a pair later and a couple of M462's to replace some older M140's
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyaztec View Post
    Lovely, nice and easy, Thanks again, Ill order a pair later and a couple of M462's to replace some older M140's
    Just use a good vice and lineman pliers and don't be shy.

    As I mentioned you might want to test with the factory leNs left on and then final focus and correct with the ccyclinder pair
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  10. #10
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    What sort of power difference did you see against the 7475? the last pair I had peaked at 1.51w with a G2 lens,
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