The 120mW 520nm diode is not single mode but it looks like one. For a diode, very good beam profile. If you were brave about overdriving, with good cooling, 150mW would be reasonable.
EDIT: Beat me by 1 minute, Chris!
The 120mW 520nm diode is not single mode but it looks like one. For a diode, very good beam profile. If you were brave about overdriving, with good cooling, 150mW would be reasonable.
EDIT: Beat me by 1 minute, Chris!
If you're the smartest person in the room, then you're in the wrong room.
My first thought was - maybe I should use this case for one of those nifty single-mode projector builds... but then I realized I don't have any free time to do something like that right now. Will probably just set this cheapish projector aside until I can get a hold of something that is as plug-n-play as possible. Is the 520nm a pure diode, i.e. none of this DPSS silliness? Which btw... wonder if these DPSS modules will ever be looked back on with nostalgia... like "remember those crazy days of DPSS and how much effort we use to spend getting a green wavelength?"
Hah.single mode diodes.Still much effort to get higher >200mW power with those.I'd try with LPC 660nm diodes just like andy_con and many others (arctos beam) too much pain less gain.The beam correction is better way with multimode diodes (700 or 7475 greens)
IMO
or
i am not a kvant engineener......
Last edited by epyn; 08-26-2015 at 18:49. Reason: i am not kvant
I have some 808 c-mount diodes. Let me know if you want to try repairing it.
Last edited by DrEvil; 08-29-2015 at 07:02.
thats a good offer bro. You should try fixing it.Might not cost a whole lot .
Would be a great learning experience. You would need some safety glasses thou.
They are handy to have.
Ok... finally had some time this weekend to spend getting this projector back up and running. Thanks to DrEvil for the 808 c mount diode - it was pretty much a drop-in replacement and worked first try.
The easy part was replacing the 808 c mount diode - including soldering the tiny connecting wires... What was NOT easy was the alignment process of the plastic box that I guess to contain the DPSS crystals. There was enough horizontal play in that module with the screws loose for about a 2" of travel on a surface about 6" from the output. Getting it aligned so that full laser was exiting the metal case and aperture proved to be quite frustrating. I would imagine the factory has some sort of jig to help them in the alignment process - I just had to do trial and error - and it took a while - a long while... but everything seems to be mostly back to normal. I still think I have a little bit of the green blocked by the metal housing, but I don't want to touch it any more... it is close enough now.
I fear you went for the difficult route of moving the crystal, SHG, etc.
Often, you can focus the beam correctly by moving the lens on the mount in front of the diode.
Certainly, every DPSS I've had to sort out, I've only ever loosened and gently moved the lens mount.
This is likely why you've had issues with the beam hitting the housing as you've ultimately changed the direction the laser is firing in.
Frikkin Lasers
http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk
You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?
I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.
has anyone exer got even 1,000 hours from a CNI laser at spec power? Anyone?
Phil Bergeron( AKA 142laser)
I know a few folks who have some of the old series 1 watt dpss greens from CNI that are still chugging along after 5 or 6 years of show use. Still making (slightly) above nameplate power, although when they were new they made nearly double their spec'd power.
That being said, I agree that this is the exception, not the rule.
Adam