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Further information, Please visit www.laser-wave.net
or email us: salesteam2@laser-wave.com
Last edited by laserwave123; 09-28-2015 at 22:43.
I can't really tell what is going on in the photos.
Unless the loss is really severe, I'm becoming less convinced about the quality of dichros really making a big difference with the typical powers everyone is using these days. In an RGB projector if you set two of them side by side and one had 511mW of red and the other had 496mW or red I seriously doubt anyone looking at them would see the difference. Especially when other variables like divergence come into play.
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Part of my logic for this is how often we now say that the difference in putting a 6 watt next to a 3 watt is nearly imperceptible - unless you're really far back from the projector or outside.
PM Sent...
I'd say it depends. An 11% difference on the green is significant to my single mode builds as I'm dealing with lower powers and trying to match power/colors between several projectors. One crappy dichro is enough to make a difference with these limitations/goals.
That said, the most trouble I've had is migrating blues (473nm to 450nm) and now the greens (532nm to 520nm and now 515nm). I've taken to testing all my dichros acquired over the years and sorting them into 'works well with 520nm' and 'works well with 450nm'. I write what passes and what reflects on the bottom edge of each dichro (where I would adhere it to a brass mount) for quick reference with a sharpie.
What I find interesting is how resilient the coatings on most dichros are. I've soaked dichros in mineral spirits and even exposed some to paint stripper. I've baked them innumerable times (150F for 10 minutes) to remove 2-part epoxy mounted dichros. I have fully expected to damage them, but they seem to be none worse for the wear. I make no guarantees, though!
<edit> At the risk of getting flamed here, I also don't get the associated discussions with cleaning dichros. A Q-tip with a *tiny* bit of neutral soap and clean water followed by a damp Q-tip, a dry Q-tip along with a bright flashlight to ensure I didn't miss a smudge or leave behind a cotton thread has always done the job for me. Fancy cleaners or other chemicals just don't seem to be justified. I've seen no degradation of dichro performance, no build-up of any sort or evidence of still-dirty dichros post cleaning. Is there a difference for those of you who clean your dichros frequently (weekly/monthly) or those of you working in environments where air pollutants are heavier (e.g. bars where people smoke, oil based haze, beer spills, bodily fluids (!!!) )?
-David
Last edited by dkumpula; 09-29-2015 at 06:23.
"Help, help, I'm being repressed!"
If your design limits you to using the dichros only at a 45 degree angle, then it is what it is. If you design your optical system around the optimum angle of the dichro that gives the best efficiency, you can get better results combining close wavelengths The angle of polarization will also have an effect.
" 15 characters"
Last edited by Laser Wizardry; 11-13-2015 at 12:57.
Thanks, Karl, that's a great explanation. It sounds like my dichros in my low power builds are safe on their current cleaning cycle. Other than finger-prints at the initial mounting, a bit of dust and the occasional spider web are my only known issues.
Now back to our intended thread:
I have several Laserwave dichros and like them. I've had better results with them than cheapies or even Kvant dichros.
-David
"Help, help, I'm being repressed!"
For another example of dirty optics ruining a laser you can watch the movie Weird Science.
Edit: Actually, that wasn't Weird Science. Who knows the name of that movie where they create the death ray in college and point it at the house full of popcorn?
suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.
" 15 characters"
Last edited by Laser Wizardry; 11-13-2015 at 12:58.