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Thread: Started building DT40 RGY scanner

  1. #1
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    Default Started building DT40 RGY scanner

    got my dt40's from cruch last week and have started building. what do you guys think?

    bottom layer



    middle layer





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  2. #2
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    I'd suggest that you relocate the power supply that is currently positioned between the galvos and the amps to another location. Otherwise you won't have room to add a blue laser in there later on.

    Also, what's with the fans mounted on the bottom board? Are you going to cut holes in that bottom plate, or are the fans actually going to be sitting vertically and moving air fron the front to the rear of the case?

    Got any pics of it up and running yet, or are you still mounting stuff?

    Adam

  3. #3
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    I really recommend thick aluminum plate as a base. You can drill and tap the holes. Plus you will not need a heat sinks. Just mount the elements with some thermo paste. Also for a case I recommend aluminum as well. So easy to work with plus any machine shop will punch the holes for fans and power cables for less then 20$
    I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!

  4. #4
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    Also aluminum wont absorb water, unlike wood which can warp over time, ruining all your alignment, and possibly shorting equipment out!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Laser View Post
    I really recommend thick aluminum plate as a base. You can drill and tap the holes. Plus you will not need heat sinks
    Agree with that. The other big advantage with using aluminium is that due to the good heat transfer, you can section and seal the optical area to prevent contamination - preserving the mirrors and scanner bearings. The heat is removed by fans/convection on the "dirty" side.
    You can also mount the scanner amps and PSU's upright, if you want to reduce the footprint of the enclosure quite a bit.
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  6. #6
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    When completely enclosing your optical area as you mentioned, what type of material is suitable for a window? I would assume Lexan, but at high enough wattages I am sure that could begin to burn, plus it scratches easily :/


    Quote Originally Posted by p1t8ull View Post
    Agree with that. The other big advantage with using aluminium is that due to the good heat transfer, you can section and seal the optical area to prevent contamination - preserving the mirrors and scanner bearings. The heat is removed by fans/convection on the "dirty" side.
    You can also mount the scanner amps and PSU's upright, if you want to reduce the footprint of the enclosure quite a bit.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mliptack View Post
    what type of material is suitable for a window?
    The way I choose to do it, is to keep windows to a minimum - ie only at the output aperture. Rob (Stanwax) posted a top-tip that regular photographic skylight filters are cheap and readily available options for those.
    If the projector is going to be subjected to some harsh environments, I either enclose the entire laser head with the scanners/mirrors etc (as below) or keep them on the "dirty" side with the PSU's if they like convection (most blues/big greens seem to appreciate it ) then get the beam into the optical side by butting the front of the laser head up to a hole in the dividing section, and use a bit of draught excluder as a seal.

    A little bit werrrr, a little bit weyyyyyy, a little bit arrrrgggghhh

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buffo View Post
    I'd suggest that you relocate the power supply that is currently positioned between the galvos and the amps to another location. Otherwise you won't have room to add a blue laser in there later on.

    Also, what's with the fans mounted on the bottom board? Are you going to cut holes in that bottom plate, or are the fans actually going to be sitting vertically and moving air fron the front to the rear of the case?

    Got any pics of it up and running yet, or are you still mounting stuff?

    Adam
    thanks for all your responces.

    the chance of me getting a blue is so so slim, but i can move it.
    i have drilled all the holes in the bottom layer so the fans will suck air out of the box. i have 4 more fans which i am going to mount in the roof to blow into the box

    no pics of it up and running im waiting for another cable cruch forgot to send.


    ok aluminium....

    i can afford an aluminium plate, i also dont have the tools to work with metal. this is why i have heat sinked everything. i will makes lots of hole in the middle board with the lasers and amps on, so the fans can suck the heat out.
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  9. #9
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    ok i have moved the psu like suggested, encase i ever win the lotter and can afford a blue lol

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  10. #10
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    ok the mirror mounts may not look professional but they work like a treat. im so so pleased with them just need my dichro now




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