Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Anyone tried the new internal ildaboard from stanwax?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    veenwouden
    Posts
    2,545

    Default Anyone tried the new internal ildaboard from stanwax?

    Hello Guys

    I wondered if anyone has tried the new ildaboard from Stanwax , the internal version shown in the picture.

    I,m concidering to use these instead of the panelmount but i,m kind of hesitating.

    If someone has some experiance with the new one i love to know how they are.

    Thanks guys
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails new ilda board.jpg  


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga USA
    Posts
    425

    Default

    I have. Works great. I have had no issues what so ever. I am going to be purchasing 6 more soon

    I was one of the first people to get one of the new ones. I am not sure of his current stock levels on these since they are totally new.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    worked great for me. Saved a lot of wiring. Get it without the slip on connectors and solder to it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    5,212

    Default

    I would disagree with kecked and say that the headers and connectors are a good idea. I just had to swap out a DS3+ correction board and it was a doddle. If they were all soldered up it would've been a nightmare.

    Is there any documentation available detailing what has changed with the new ones?
    http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems
    http://www.frikkinlazors.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio
    Posts
    2,178

    Default connectors

    Quote Originally Posted by norty303 View Post
    I would disagree with kecked and say that the headers and connectors are a good idea. I just had to swap out a DS3+ correction board and it was a doddle. If they were all soldered up it would've been a nightmare.

    Is there any documentation available detailing what has changed with the new ones?
    I just find that the wires break out of the crimps over time and the connectors are always loose feeling. maybe it's my crimp skill. I even tried to solder the crimp and the tiny wires still break off. Then the crimps fell loose in holder. I have little confidence in the idc connector system.

    This is the type I have issues with http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...891-ND/3340269
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...866-ND/3340251
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...431-ND/1150101

    These aren't exact but similar. The last header is usually a straight row of pins and you break a section off. Maybe the locking ramp might be the solution.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga USA
    Posts
    425

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kecked View Post
    I just find that the wires break out of the crimps over time and the connectors are always loose feeling. maybe it's my crimp skill. I even tried to solder the crimp and the tiny wires still break off. Then the crimps fell loose in holder. I have little confidence in the idc connector system.

    This is the type I have issues with http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...891-ND/3340269
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...866-ND/3340251
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...431-ND/1150101

    These aren't exact but similar. The last header is usually a straight row of pins and you break a section off. Maybe the locking ramp might be the solution.
    I been using his boards and other similar style connectors for years. Never had an issue. What kinda crimp
    tool are you using?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Cleveland Ohio
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    pliers! I guess that explains that. One out of three are good. That's why I decided to solder.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga USA
    Posts
    425

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kecked View Post
    pliers! I guess that explains that. One out of three are good. That's why I decided to solder.
    LOL.. yea.. pliers arent the right tool. lol. Next time you order from Rob.. get the tool. He sells the right one.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
    Posts
    3,372

    Default

    OK Johan, first things first. The board that you are showing is not the same as the panel mount board that you have used in the past, its a whole new design with new features. The panel mount version of this board is 100% identical electronically to the internal one you have shown and as yet they are not available for sale. Thats why there is no means of buying either from the shop.
    I have some under test in my own projectors and there are a couple out to selected users such as drm916, who are giving me feedback in terms of performance and suitability compared to the old style boards, as there is a great deal thats new on these and while I was redesigning I chose to make a dedicated internal version as opposed to the compromise that was the 1.xx internal version.
    So if the panel mount is suitable for you then so will the internal. They are the same. But different physically.

    I will have them for sale once I have tested it thoroughly, and can get a production run completed.

    The new board to be know as S4i & S4p (for internal and panel mount respectivley) has buffered inputs for the XY RGB signals and as well as having an output for a traditional electro mechanical shutter via a relay (for maximum compatibility), it also has solid state shuttering of the RGB signal lines. This will kill laser output in <100uS making it safer than the original 1.xx boards. It still has the relay to kill laser power and uses exactly the same interlock and estop circuitry that has been tried and tested over the last 6 or so years. This also means it is compatible with V1.03 boards (and modified V1.01/1.02) in respect of daisy chaining for a single estop. As well as this there is a new feature in the firmware allowing the user to change the startup delay to a custom value of between 0 and 60 seconds, with the default being the same as v1.xx at 7 seconds, plus a shutter option that will add a delay to the mechanical shutter closing action, to avoid shutter clattering during brief 'no lase routput' situations. This does not affect the shutter operation under e-stop conditions and its an option anyway so if you dont want it you simply dont select it.
    Finally to ensure compatibility the panel mount board is physically compatible with v1.xx so you could replace and old board with a new one if you wanted the new features with the minimum of fuss, the only thing it cant accomodate is the piggy back colourboard that would fit on the old board.

    As for connections - alway use connectors. Soldering everything sux, its so easy to rip things down and swap out if needed when thisng are on connectors whether screws of pushfits.

    I hope this refeshed you memory about the features of the new board Johan a swe have discussed this baord on the phone.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
    Posts
    3,372

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drm916 View Post
    He sells the right one.
    Yes I do sell the correct tool for Molex and compatibles.
    Its not worth not having this tool and I have seen all kinds of abortions of connections with these from badly 'crimped' with pliers to badly soldered.
    Alternatives are understandable if you look at the molex price....which is circa 200 but I sell the compatible one for 30 inc vat and post - not worth farting around for that.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •