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Thread: 6W RGB Laser Build - UK

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Kenilworth, UK
    Posts
    44

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    New plan based on the excellent advice above, easier and cheaper too! Slight change to the diodes based on the advice from Norty, Daniel and Planters:

    Oclaro HL63193MG 638nm Red * 2 (1.4W)
    NDG 7475 520nm Green * 1 (1W)
    M462 462nm Blue * 1 (2W)

    And a new layout:

    Laser layout V1 by Simon Redfearn, on Flickr

    Thanks everyone, great community here.

    Dupe...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    8,615

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    as has been said, beams need to enter correction optics at the same length otherwise you will get different end results
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat


    Aluminium Optic Mounts

    http://www.laser-man.co.uk/opticmounts/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    2,787

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    Going against what Norty said, but I'll be rebellious like that

    Putting the red modules at 90˚ will give you a hard time aligning the two reds perfectly; also your case will also be bigger than it needs to be as a result.
    I'd strongly go with your first red setup.

    When building / aligning: start with your top red module and align the first train of optics around that. Then align your 2nd red; but you will really need the bounce mirror to position it accurately on the cube perfectly (to get your near field alignment as good as possible) ; then tweak the cube to get the rest of the alignment done right).

    Decent mounts do not go out of alignment.

    Also: take care to ensure all lasers are the exact same beam height throughout!
    - There is no such word as "can't" -
    - 60% of the time it works every time -

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Kenilworth, UK
    Posts
    44

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    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    as has been said, beams need to enter correction optics at the same length otherwise you will get different end results
    Just to clarify, are you talking about the PBS cubes or the correction lenses in general? I can see why its important for PBS, but not so for general correction?

    Just had a look at your mounts, look nice, this maybe a stupid question, but how do people attach the optics to mounts? I assume epoxy or cyanoacrylate glue? I actually tested the new formula RS cyanoacrylate glue a few weeks ago, its slightly stiffer than than the old version and still holds a 3.5g mass solidly to around 4kHz, slightly higher if you take care.

    Dupe...
    Last edited by djdulux; 01-15-2016 at 02:24.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Kenilworth, UK
    Posts
    44

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    Quote Originally Posted by danielbriggs View Post
    Going against what Norty said, but I'll be rebellious like that

    Putting the red modules at 90˚ will give you a hard time aligning the two reds perfectly; also your case will also be bigger than it needs to be as a result.
    I'd strongly go with your first red setup.

    When building / aligning: start with your top red module and align the first train of optics around that. Then align your 2nd red; but you will really need the bounce mirror to position it accurately on the cube perfectly (to get your near field alignment as good as possible) ; then tweak the cube to get the rest of the alignment done right).

    Decent mounts do not go out of alignment.

    Also: take care to ensure all lasers are the exact same beam height throughout!
    I can still leave the mirror in and get the paths the same length, just checked so will update. I was a bit worried about lack of a mirror so I will leave both options open. I still can not believe you can get over 4W of laser on a 250*150 plate, size is not a huge factor so will make sure I leave space for changes and upgrades.

    Dupe...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    5,203

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    Actually, I wasn't suggesting the red should move around, just that the beam paths should be the same.
    Also, it is possible to combine the green and blue pre-prisms and correct both at the same time. I've got combined green/blue modules like this that make the final dichro combining much simpler.
    http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems
    http://www.frikkinlazors.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Guildford, UK
    Posts
    165

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    Never cyanoacrylate IIRC - I think it's the vapours it gives off condense on surfaces leaving a white bloom, deadly for optics I'd think

    Will be watching with interest as you're doing what's next for me! Can you not leave the reds side by side but offset them to get the lengths of travel right? I've seen setups with the combining optics extremely closely packed - with the mounts the right way around I'd think you can get the bounce mirror and PBS cube right by each other

    Very interested in how tightly you can pack the shutter and filter. Have fun
    Dynamics/EasyLase LC/FD820/RGB 400mW Homebrew w/EMS4ks

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Preston, Lancashire UK
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    1,063

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    Quote Originally Posted by djdulux View Post
    Just to clarify, are you talking about the PBS cubes or the correction lenses in general? I can see why its important for PBS, but not so for general correction?

    Just had a look at your mounts, look nice, this maybe a stupid question, but how do people attach the optics to mounts? I assume epoxy or cyanoacrylate glue? I actually tested the new formula RS cyanoacrylate glue a few weeks ago, its slightly stiffer than than the old version and still holds a 3.5g mass solidly to around 4kHz, slightly higher if you take care.

    Dupe...
    For attaching optics to mounts I would suggest a UV cured glue for glass to metal. I use a product called "Nano 470" and use a UV LED key ring tourch to set the glue. The manufacture claims it can also be cured with white light as well but not had much luck my self but is great with UV.

    Carl
    Last edited by Carl B; 01-15-2016 at 08:40.
    2 x Stanwax Laser 2.5W RGB's
    Pangolin FB3QS + Live Pro
    1.3W Laser Harp

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,513

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    I attach optics to aluminum with hardware store RTV. The gel is thixotropic. This is the neat property that allows you to spread it but like tooth paste will not flow while it cures. This protects the important clear aperture from drips. This adhesive bonds both surfaces well, but not so aggressively that you cant extract a part with real firm finger pressure. I've never had a component bond fail.

    Actually, I wasn't suggesting the red should move around, just that the beam paths should be the same.
    I agree. Just back up the upper red diode.

    You might consider using cylinder lens pairs rather than the two anamorphic prism pairs. They will give better power throughput and in my experience they give lower divergence as well.

    size is not a huge factor so will make sure I leave space for changes and upgrades.
    Yes, do this. You will appreciate this later.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Monroe, Mi USA
    Posts
    815

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    Yes...Go with Cylinderical lenses...for ALL diode astigmatic correction !!! If you can arrange it so the beam path is of equal length....for the blue and green propagation....as it travels from the collimation lens to the first Plano convex Cylindrical...you can use only one (1) single set of cylindrical lenses...when using the NUBM07E and the NUBM01T diode !
    .
    I have done this...and it works a trick !! The geometry of the die must be very similar on these two diodes....because....the separation distance between the cylindrical plano convex and plano concave is exactly the same for optimal correction...so....one set of Cylindricals works !! These diodes have plenty of photons out the front end....more blue than you will need...but...that is ok !!...The color of this combination ...IMNSHO....is very, very nice !!
    .
    And yes...to giving yourself the ability for adjustment. Adjustability is a good/bad thing....Good for as close to perfect optical alignment...but...Bad....because....that which has the ability to be adjusted....then also has the ability to be knocked out of alignment....Sigh !! Optics are a harsh Task Master !
    .
    Interesting on the RTV adhesive use....does RTV adhere well to Brass also ? I assume it does !!
    .
    Good luck !!! Great to see another brave soul build their own rig !! The true value lies within the hands-on teaching this generates....and the eventual pride of creation !!! Keep us posted !!
    .
    Note: Just use a Dichro to combine the Blue and Green first....then put the combined beam thru one set of Cylindricals....then...add the Red last....for the Red line is going to be your least amount of optical power....so....IIRC...the least powerful....should go last....for in that fashion the least powerful goes thru the least amount of optics....so....suffers less optical loss !
    .
    The Blue and Green units would be side by side....as in your first drawing showing the side by side Red's....just off-set to each other so as to equalize the beam path length.......then one color needs to take a 90 degree bounce...and both Blue and Green then hit the dichro...combine....and then on to the C-lenses !!
    .
    Oh...I still remain of the opinion that the 2mm EFL collimation lens is preferred as a lens to use on the Oclarro 63193 LD's.....and yes...the Red's stay side by side....also with an offset to equalize beam path travel...and do keep the steering/bounce mirror to align / overlay the beams in the PBS cube !!
    Last edited by CDBEAM; 01-15-2016 at 20:55. Reason: Added note
    Beam Axiom #1 ~The Quantum well is DEEP ! Photons for ALL !!
    .
    Beam Axiom #2 ~Yes...As a matter of fact...I DO wear tinfoil on my head !!
    .
    Beam Axiom #3 ~Whe'n dout...Po ah Donk awn et !!
    .
    Beam Axiom #4 ~A Chicken in every Pot, and a Laser Lumia in every Livingroom !!
    .
    Beam Axiom #5 ~"Abstract Photonic Expressionism"....is "Abstractonimical" !!
    .
    Beam Axiom #6 ~ "A Posse ad Essea" ~ From being possible to being actual ...is the beam target !

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