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Thread: Correct laser power mixes.

  1. #1
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    Default Correct laser power mixes.

    Hi guys.
    simple question but needs alittle brains.
    if I have a 2 watt green diode laser what power will the red and blue lasers need to be to get the correct balance to make a perfect white?

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    swamidog is offline Jr. Woodchuckington Janitor III, Esq.
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    what frequency "green", what frequency "red", and what frequency "blue"?

    what color temperature is "perfect white"?


    Quote Originally Posted by apdevelopments View Post
    Hi guys.
    simple question but needs alittle brains.
    if I have a 2 watt green diode laser what power will the red and blue lasers need to be to get the correct balance to make a perfect white?
    suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.

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    Whatever it is, there's still not enough red.

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    Hi guys.
    The green I already have is a 2 watt 520nm laser.
    I havenít brought the red or blue yet. Hence the question.
    Itís going to be used on a beam table with effects for lighting on stage and club use.

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    Again?! Really?!
    "There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot, but there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence, transform a yellow spot into the sun." Pablo Picasso

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    There are no correct answer.
    I have ~1200mW 638 nm for <1W 520 green and ~1W of 462 nm.
    Sometimes i see too much of red sometimes the 'balance' needs more. All depend of your mood where you're using your laser closed or open space, how much is the haze ,the surface for the projecion etc.
    IMO for your 2Watts 520 nm i think you've to get ~3-4 Watts of 635-640 nm and at least 3Watts of 450-462 nm blue
    6W full diode RGB
    2X 4W 462-520-638
    4W 520 nm
    Beyond 2X FB3
    ☼▬▬▬In Lasers We Trust▬▬▬☼

  7. #7
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    This is my starting point. 4:1:2. 642-638:520-532:450-460. Build as two 700mw or more. One 1w green. One 2w blue

    Gives about 2.5-3w of usable light. For beams just use it all.

    Iím NEVER happy with white EVER. I change it hourly. I like a slightly cool white over a warm white. Unmatched beams with fringes from poor overlap drive me nutz. My glasses make even a perfect beam look bad to me. An audience would never care or notice.

    Getting a linear response in White is more important to me than just about anything. Iím into subtle colors and low brightness pallets.

    Good luck. Best answer is add as much red as you possible can fit on the scanners. Blue is pretty easy.

    Last yellow....520 makes a poor yellow. 532 is better but 520 is a nicer green. All trade offs. If you use up to six lines you can control it in most software. It is worth it. Ion was a pain but had itís advantages.

    Bottom line is it up to your taste.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kecked View Post
    Iím NEVER happy with white EVER. I change it hourly. I like a slightly cool white over a warm white.
    . .
    Last yellow....520 makes a poor yellow. 532 is better but 520 is a nicer green. All trade offs. If you use up to six lines you can control it in most software. It is worth it. Ion was a pain but had itís advantages.

    Bottom line is it up to your taste.
    Good advice, Kecked. Personally, I build all of my projectors with a target ratio of 2:1:3 of 638nm/520nm/450nm, but again that's my white preference. I build single mode diode builds so my beam overlap (depending on the collimation lenses chosen) can be damn near perfect even at 75 feet so I'm not thrown off by that . . except when things come out of alignment which happens more often than I'd care to admit.

    -David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkumpula View Post
    Good advice, Kecked. Personally, I build all of my projectors with a target ratio of 2:1:3 of 638nm/520nm/450nm, but again that's my white preference. I build single mode diode builds so my beam overlap (depending on the collimation lenses chosen) can be damn near perfect even at 75 feet so I'm not thrown off by that . . except when things come out of alignment which happens more often than I'd care to admit.

    -David
    David's setup is one of the only setups where I have seen a true White to gray fade out. Most projectors fade out to a subtle blue or red.
    Watching Lasers Since 1981

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