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Thread: GoldenStar RGB 3000

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Belgium
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    282

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    I believe the fiber is used as a rod lens to (partially) correct the slow axis divergence and not as a long barrel lens to destroy coherence.

    Quote Originally Posted by VDX View Post
    ... I have some fiber-coupled IR-diodes with 50 micron or 105 micron fibers, directly attached before the laser crystal - another type contains several diodes in the housing, which are precollimated and focussed in a 105 micron fiber ... could be the same with fiber-coupled VIS-diodes.
    Quote Originally Posted by VDX View Post

    So the laser beam is fed through the fiber and "homogenized" by removing the polarisation - essentially it's a LED-like light-source with the wavelength of the laser-diode and an emitter size of the fiber diameter ...

    Viktor

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    1,056

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    ... if the beam isn't inserted into the (long) fiber, but a short piece of fiber is placed perpendicular to the beam, then this is only a "cheap" replacement for a cylinder lens ...

    Viktor
    Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?426
    Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?425

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Caledonia
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    10

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    Just got the 4W unit, slightly bigger than the 3w. it has DT40 and better analog driver (you can see the 3 specific drivers, they all have a swtich on them from A&T- to T+ )
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    Just running on the Sd built in programms as i'm still waiting on the FB3Qs to arrive. i like the colors of the 4W unit better, the Cyan is magnificient ( a bit more turquoise than the 3w)
    More tests when quickshow is here !!

    here's a video of the 3w unit running auto on the weekend. pretty powerfull already !


  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Caledonia
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    10

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    Finally got that Fb3Qs wohooo. plugged it in... and woow the 4w is actually really deceiving... it is definitly worst than the 3w modulation wise. miss aligned as well. It is meant to have DT40 Scanner, but the ILDA grid is already out of shape at 28kpps on the 4w
    A few shoots of what's wrong, Sorry for the shitty background

    The 4w unit is on the left and the 3w on the right.

    analog linear modualtion grid, with at 28kpps
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    Analog Log Modulation at 28kpps
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    Color patter of the RGB3W unit (analog log modulatipon)
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    Color Pattern of the RGB4W Unit (analog log modulation)
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    Shot of missalignement
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    Modulation between the red and blue ( seems like there's a threshold for red on the 4w unit) where the 4W was supposed to have better modulation (with his 3 separate driver) The 3w wins again...
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    Now white beams... sharper beam they said... (from the bottom left is the 3w)
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    Can you confirm me there's something wrong with this unit or is it just, "what we get" for that price...
    My guess is something misaligned during transportation... can we fix those issues?..

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    5,207

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    The reason you see 2 red beams is because you have 2 diodes and they are combined in a knife edge arrangement.
    In the module they are like this || but passing the beam through the scanners changes the orientation to =
    The way to avoid that is to use PBS cube and 1/2 waveplate, but this is more costly. You get what you pay for, as they say. My W4W modules are exactly the same.
    The smearing is a combination of scanner, driver and controller.
    You can adjust this in the scanning settings, colour/blanking shift. The problem is that not all projectors will require the same, especially if hardware is different, so if you're running more than 1 projector per controller, you'll need to come up with a happy medium.
    What are the scanners in the 3W? PT-A40 or something else?
    http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems
    http://www.frikkinlazors.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Caledonia
    Posts
    10

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    Just got a very basic answear from Mimi Goldenstar, No words about about the scanner or modulation problems...

    "The red color need alignment,I send picture to you,you can adjust it.

    It have 2 red diode,the picture I send,one side not adjust,adjust other side and make it alignment.

    Hope it can help you."

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    Gonna try to re-align all that tonight... the thing is, how to know which of the 2 red diodes to re-align?

    On the RGB3W the scanner are labelled "PH683TH" comparing with goldenstar website, they look like the AL30K (driver wise).
    I am really deceived about the so called "DT40" that perform not as good as those AL30k. Even on beams, the 4W flickers more than the 3W
    Norty do you mean that you encounter the same kinda misalignement in your W4W modules?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    left is RGB3W

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Indiana
    Posts
    912

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    Quote Originally Posted by bricenc View Post
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    Gonna try to re-align all that tonight... the thing is, how to know which of the 2 red diodes to re-align?
    With the laser power turned almost all the way down (for safety) use a small flat black tool to "block out" each beam before the knife mirror while looking at overlap on a wall. Usually I project a large + sign or square to make it easier to see. It will be obvious what diode is out. It wont take much force to move the mount unless its glued.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Caledonia
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    10

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    Thanks for the tip ahah yeah i feel pretty dumb not thinking about it. Dead simple and efficient. Cheers!!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    5,207

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    As I said, its not misalignment if its a knife edge combine. The beams are literally next to each other, not overlapping.
    They may have a too big gap, which could be tightened, but you won't do that by adjusting the mounts like the picture shows.
    You need to slide one or other of the mounts back/forth to close up the gap a bit.
    If you adjust the left right, you will simply cause the beams to not be parallel to each other, so they will cross at some point, but be out of alignment at a further distance, and get worse as the range increases.
    Open the module, check what you have (it may have changed to PBS since I got mine, in which case it is misaligned)
    Then understand how it flows from diode to aperture. Then identify the bit that needs to be moved.
    I find this type of alignment is best performed with a bit of haze in the room, you can actually see when the beams are parallel in the module and on the exit.
    If the module hits a bounce mirror onto the scanners, the best thing to do is take off the top and front of the projector and remove/swivel out of the way the bounce mirro and project straight onto a wall.
    You'll get a beam like ||
    If you go via the scanners you'll get disorientated as they turn the beam 90 degrees, so a left/right movement in the module will give an up/down movement on the wall.
    http://www.facebook.com/SubsonicSystems
    http://www.frikkinlazors.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Caledonia
    Posts
    10

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    Thanks for this answer Norty, and all this knowledge you're sharing, that's 100 times more helpfull than talking with mimigoldenstar...
    So yeah i discovered much of what you explained trying to get those red to align for hours last night...
    But always ended up having a "diagonal shift" while trying to adjust the mount, i mean not purely horizontal and vetical, but a bit of both each time.

    here's the inside of mine.
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    So it's actually the mount (the one circled in blue in the ****) that has to be moved , needs to be moved back and fourth to get those red beams.
    Gonna give an other try with the laser projector taken apart.

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