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Thread: Single-mode RGB modules

  1. #1
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    Default Single-mode RGB modules

    Can anyone recommend a decent, well-aligned single mode RGB module? I have tried these modules (or similar from China) and have yet to get one that is properly aligned. While I could try and realign it myself, I 'd rather not. Plus, the green in these modules looks more like 510nm~515nm, not 520nm. Mmmm minty! lol. I guess I am getting lazy in my old age but I'm looking to reduce space and save myself the time of chipping off the epoxy used on these dichro mounts just to get the FF convergence looking decent.

    Alternatively, if anyone can recommend a good RGB mount with decent brass dichro mounts, I might be willing to go that route.
    Last edited by absolom7691; 10-04-2020 at 14:36.
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  2. #2
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    I use mm1 on everything. If I could afford I’d buy the top adjust variety. Always wished for a 0.5 mm1. They are a bit large. I use to buy brass push pull ones from Dave down under.
    The atten modules always caught my attention as do the opt modules. Atten uses spatial filtering which is great. Other than that it’s roll the dice on eBay.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by absolom7691 View Post
    Can anyone recommend a decent, well-aligned single mode RGB module? I have tried these modules (or similar from China) and have yet to get one that is properly aligned. While I could try and realign it myself, I 'd rather not. Plus, the green in these modules looks more like 510nm~515nm, not 520nm. Mmmm minty! lol. I guess I am getting lazy in my old age but I'm looking to reduce space and save myself the time of chipping off the epoxy used on these dichro mounts just to get the FF convergence looking decent.

    Alternatively, if anyone can recommend a good RGB mount with decent brass dichro mounts, I might be willing to go that route.
    That looks like hot-glue to me Absolom. It should be easy to break the bolts free without having to remove the glue first.

    Regarding mounts, I agree with Kecked if space/cost is no object then MM1s or super-expensive top adjust are the best. Goldenstar sells a smaller MM1 knock-off that I like, but it isn't as good as a proper MM1. Tor brass, there are several options. I like the little ones sold by LaserTack in my space constrained builds. The design is almost identical to one that BBE/X-Wossee made and sold to LaserTack before they introduced their own. (Bad LaserTack!) BBE also had right and left angled versions that were very handy in tight builds. Sadly, BBE doesn't produce his anymore.

    Regarding modules, I think you should fix the one you have. If you wanted a super small one, Opt laser in Poland (not the same as Opt Shenzen laser in China) sells one that I've made some super tiny projectors with. It's expensive though.

    Generally though, modules can come out of alignment, so the ability to adjust is important. Especially for the super-tight single modes. I'm really picking about alignment myself, so it frustrates me when I see a projector that isn't perfectly aligned. I just bought a fiber corrected module from Opt Lasers in China where it is obvious that the near-field and far-field alignment are not great. That means opening it up (voiding any warranty) and fixing it. Hopefully there isn't any hot-glue in there.

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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the response, guys. The dichro mounts on those Chinese units are definitely an epoxy. I have two of those units and that stuff shrapnels when you break it loose! I am currently using MM1-like kinematics but I was looking for something a bit more compact. I guess I will stick with the MM1 setup I am using. Thanks again, guys.

    This is my current setup:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
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    Try using paint stripper. If the optic survives it won’t shatter. If it doesn’t you don’t cut yourself and you still needs new dichro.

  6. #6
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    Epoxy is easy to remove with a bit of heat. I've done this hundreds of times with dichros and PBS cubes without losing a single one. As long as there is no plastic going in the toaster oven / oven, you'll be fine.

    Bake the dichros/mounts at 170F for ten minutes or a bit longer if it is a big piece of alum. If there isn't too much epoxy, the hot dichros should pop off easily, otherwise gentle twisting or even a box-cutter may be necessary. Don't be afraid to rebake if necessary. Before anything cools, gently scrape off the epoxy from the dichros and then the mounts using a scraping razor. I prefer the long blade of a scraping razor as opposed to a box-cutter tool as the longer razor helps to prevent you from damaging the coating on the dichros. You can also remove the epoxy with your fingernail and that further reduces the chance of scratching your dichros. That said, even if you did make a little scratch on the dichros, it will likely be at the attachment point anyhow, so it isn't the end of that dichro.

    Note that clear epoxy comes off the easiest. The dark / tougher stuff is a bit harder to remove.

    Happy scraping!

    -David
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkumpula View Post
    Epoxy is easy to remove with a bit of heat. I've done this hundreds of times with dichros and PBS cubes without losing a single one. As long as there is no plastic going in the toaster oven / oven, you'll be fine.

    Bake the dichros/mounts at 170F for ten minutes or a bit longer if it is a big piece of alum. If there isn't too much epoxy, the hot dichros should pop off easily, otherwise gentle twisting or even a box-cutter may be necessary. Don't be afraid to rebake if necessary. Before anything cools, gently scrape off the epoxy from the dichros and then the mounts using a scraping razor. I prefer the long blade of a scraping razor as opposed to a box-cutter tool as the longer razor helps to prevent you from damaging the coating on the dichros. You can also remove the epoxy with your fingernail and that further reduces the chance of scratching your dichros. That said, even if you did make a little scratch on the dichros, it will likely be at the attachment point anyhow, so it isn't the end of that dichro.

    Note that clear epoxy comes off the easiest. The dark / tougher stuff is a bit harder to remove.

    Happy scraping!

    -David
    great idea.

    Being a chemist I go for the liquids first but this is mush better idea.

    Ps bake it outside and don’t breath the vapors. I’d not cook food in there until you bake it on high for 20 min or so. I’m thinking more of superglue than epoxy but you never know. David have you ever smelled anything? At those low temps you might not. A heat gun might be another option.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kecked View Post
    great idea.

    Being a chemist I go for the liquids first but this is mush better idea.

    Ps bake it outside and don’t breath the vapors. I’d not cook food in there until you bake it on high for 20 min or so. I’m thinking more of superglue than epoxy but you never know. David have you ever smelled anything? At those low temps you might not. A heat gun might be another option.
    I have a separate toaster oven for that sort of thing, but there isn't any odor from baking a bit of epoxy in my experience. Baking on paint or plastic coatings? That's done in a second garage with a dedicated toaster oven that is never used for anything edible.

    -David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

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