I bought these steppers to use instead of a thumbscrew on an mm1:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/40003...27424c4dJvYvEy
I bought these steppers to use instead of a thumbscrew on an mm1:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/40003...27424c4dJvYvEy
Trying to create a good diode mount....
Heloo,
In this way you may prefer more precision 28BYJ-48 steppers cuz of 1/64 ratio and hight precision of 0,18°. Here they can be bought with ULN driver for Arduino. In some way you can use LV8729 on your duino-board to achive full 1/128 stepping.
It will looks like that with some 3d-printed magic:
Last edited by Methelina; 05-24-2021 at 07:04.
Best regards,
Linda
Discord: Linda#7591
Yes and also to keep the projectors sealed.. Opening a laser projector up in a non clean enviroment or wanting to keep them truly waterproof means you really shouldn't open up a projector.. Or opening a projector up in a foggy room is not good..
One thing of driving with a stepper directly is resolution issues and microstepping means no. Holding torgue..it would take nothing to get horrible misalignment or have Vibrations interfere with the alignment... You need something that provides some friction
AHH I see no torque issue because you move the photons not the source! But now you have 4 galvo sets! RGB and XY. Killing a fly with a sledge.
Those are the parts from the flexure microscope I was thinking of. PJ you are right about torque but the thing is you can gear down from a faster stepper to get torque and also more effective resolution. Steps are steps but if you shrink the spacing on those steps through gearing you get finer resolution. In fact you can take through just three gears a very small torque and make a monster you can't turn with your fingers.
It's like a timebase based on 10mhz clock. If you divide down to seconds its about 23 divide by 2's. each time you double the accuracy/precision. different but related quantities.
Anyway so maybe the point is use a faster turning servo with less steps you gear down. We only use a very small part of the full movement. Get it close by hand then engage the system.
I see this as a nice I2C application.
Hey in fact how is this for making it complicated. Use a 1% beam splitter. IE a glass slide. Use a prism to break the beam into the three colors. Have that hit a one dimensional detector array from like cheap spectrophotometer. Use that info to make a closed loop feedback to keep the beams where you want them. Use a second one to pickup on the y axis or just a ccd array in general. Now it auto finds the center of the beam, overlaps, matches the divergence of each beam (using the ccd array you can profile the beam). Now go make it work....see you in a lifetime.
Gearing down indeed provides some resistance in the gears but lets not forget that there are issues like backlash and tolerance issues with gears.. it might be a non issue I am not sure!
Most certainly would worth trying though!
I like the idea of an xy set of mirrors. Not killing fly with hammer. I think you could use linear actuators to turn set screws on a worm gear. They don’t have to be fast. You could use a single motor and gearing to go between the two sets. Remember one stays constant. If you arrange it right all you do is rotate a gear to go between the sets of worm gears. The worms move an arc with a mirror. Think inside out section of a gear on a pivot point with a mirror glued to it. One motor per axis or now it’s a manual knob on top of the projector and you are the motor.