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Thread: Motorized mm1

  1. #1
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    Default Motorized mm1

    Someone asked. I forget who. Here is a good candidate stepper to fit on an mm1.

    thinking you take the gear off and solder or other on proper 80 pitch threaded rod. Then you just need a slit and spring to let the motor turn but not turn itself. Tap in two more rods and 3D print a holder. Use a spring to hold it tight. Might have some backlash so design a better mount idea. Other idea is glue piece of tubing that fits on the existing knob on the mm1 to the gear. Now it can slip if you go too far. You can try flex shafts too. I have not found any yet.

    The programming of this is off the shelf. Buy a stepper tester. Might cost 10.00 for each mm1. Accuracy unknown.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/38374679442...Cclp%3A2047675

    this one I think has the right screw
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/38380554903...Cclp%3A2047675
    Last edited by kecked; 06-20-2021 at 04:37.

  2. #2
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    Default

    I think it was me talking about motorized dichros.. this seems interesting!

  3. #3
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    Default

    The forces required to actuate a mount (of any kind) with proper damping AND long term stability (in this case an MM1 or similar) AND have the proper step precision / resolution (needs to be looked at closely, it is not hard, but not trivial either). I mentioned this briefly (during my talk) at SELEM a few years ago... a lot of the design trade-offs revolve around (no pun intended) the expected use, projection range, and angular resolution, etc.

    I had been looking at these for a series of linear motorized actuators / steppers, but the motion is still not fine enough without added mechanical motion reduction flexures.
    See: https://www.micro-steppermotor.com/s...oise-sm10.html

    I don't post much, life too hard and difficult (especially now), but maybe I'll finally start posting regularly... might help my psyche.

    AB
    Did my first "Laser Lumia Show" in 1974... and have never stopped experimenting !

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumia View Post
    The forces required to actuate a mount (of any kind) with proper damping AND long term stability (in this case an MM1 or similar) AND have the proper step precision / resolution (needs to be looked at closely, it is not hard, but not trivial either). I mentioned this briefly (during my talk) at SELEM a few years ago... a lot of the design trade-offs revolve around (no pun intended) the expected use, projection range, and angular resolution, etc.

    I had been looking at these for a series of linear motorized actuators / steppers, but the motion is still not fine enough without added mechanical motion reduction flexures.
    See: https://www.micro-steppermotor.com/s...oise-sm10.html

    I don't post much, life too hard and difficult (especially now), but maybe I'll finally start posting regularly... might help my psyche.

    AB
    my biggest question has been where to get the proper threading. I think it’s 80 tpi. I have found steppers with 500:1 planetaries attached but not the right thread. They all have gears.

    it’s a solved issue as kvant does it. I however want it for optical work with lasers not used for light shows. I have a nice tip and rotate stage I want to motorize so I don’t have to stick my face in front of a a switched ti:saph! I however can’t afford 5k an axis or even 1k and axis. I am sure this can be done for under 500.00 total for six axis including the control unit.

    I have heard and read of using flex shafts. If I can find them I can drill the screws already in the mm1 or stage micrometers and just jb weld them. I doubt there is much torque and it’s also like a fuse if there is. It might also be possible to thread the flex shaft? Not sure. Anyway thought I’d share what I found.

  5. #5
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    Default

    As stated MM1, MM2 (style) threads are typically1/4-80, some others are 3/16-100, and 1/4-100, all are fairly commonly available for DIY stuff.

    I typically buy from Victor (see: https://www.victornet.com/)
    https://www.victornet.com/detail/TAST-1/4-80.html
    Victor has tons of odd ball taps and dies.

    As well as good old McMaster-Carr:
    https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thre...-size~1-4-100/

    AB
    Did my first "Laser Lumia Show" in 1974... and have never stopped experimenting !

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumia View Post
    As stated MM1, MM2 (style) threads are typically1/4-80, some others are 3/16-100, and 1/4-100, all are fairly commonly available for DIY stuff.

    I typically buy from Victor (see: https://www.victornet.com/)
    https://www.victornet.com/detail/TAST-1/4-80.html
    Victor has tons of odd ball taps and dies.

    As well as good old McMaster-Carr:
    https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thre...-size~1-4-100/

    AB
    it’s like when you look in the fridge for something and can’t find it and your wife walks right up and hands it to you!
    I looked on McMaster first thing but under threaded rod!

  7. #7
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    I was assuming it would be as simple as attaching a fine geared motor to an existing mount like an mm1 indeed.

  8. #8
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    The McMaster ball end stuff fit perfect. Now to figure how to put the threaded rod on a stepper and I have it.
    the rods I got have a hex head. If I can find a coupler or hex shaped flex shaft all the better. Thinking just use a coupler and a set screw to hold the rod and stepper together. Still would be nice to put the stepper off the optics table so the flex hex would be best. Likely have to braze it on.

    next motoring micrometers on xyz stages. Basically the same just need different sized threaded rods.

    on second thought why be dumb. Grind a flat spot on the end of the rod and use a standard set screw coupler. Sooo much simpler than brazing.
    Last edited by kecked; 07-04-2021 at 06:41.

  9. #9
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    I picked up something similar to a MM-2 with 3 NEMA 17? steppers coupled to the screws using bellows type flex couplings. It was on ebay for about the price of the steppers.
    "There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot, but there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence, transform a yellow spot into the sun." Pablo Picasso

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by laserist View Post
    I picked up something similar to a MM-2 with 3 NEMA 17? steppers coupled to the screws using bellows type flex couplings. It was on ebay for about the price of the steppers.
    cool! What I’m really after is to automate an xyz rotation tilt assembly so I don’t have to stick my face in front of a Ti:saph at work. I thought the computer part would be the hard part but it’s the mechanical. So was looking for ways to drive the micrometers on the stages and decided to just couple to threaded rod that fits in the micrometers. The tilt rotate uses the rods as push rods but same deal.

    why they charge 5k for an axis I do not understand. Even if I use a 400:1 stepper it is only 50.00 and I don’t need 0.15nm resolution.

    also once I know this I can drive the big nema steppers and build a gcode gantry for a laser cutter. Amazing this is even possible at home. Fortunately I have talented folks willing to help out.

    Btw I found the ultimate if I could figure how to drive it. A ball and socket in one stage could give all axis motion. Add a z and rotation if you want. How would one drive such a stage? 6 actuators pushing a platform. Stay tuned or look up the guy on YouTube that automated a pool que! Now to find linear actuators small enough. Figure one push or pull in each corner of the platform. Calculate the position and do a little math to determine the length of the rods. Still needs few other axis but cool idea. For me the tip tilt is important. I can manually set the others.

    https://www.instructables.com/Stewart-Platform/ It’s all on GitHub
    Last edited by kecked; 07-05-2021 at 06:12.

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