TTL-driven relays?

[wes]

well,this thread seems to be wrapping up so i think i would like to ask an off topic question.

what kind of plane(s) do you fly stuka?

i'm thinking A10s because they are dive bombers, as was the stuka.

[Stuka]

Wes -

The "Stuka" name comes from a unit I flew with out of Germany in Desert Storm. We were actually Army aerial observers flying the (then) unarmed OH-58D reconnaissance helicopter (which is now the armed OH-58D Kiowa Warrior, which I still fly).

The story I was told concerning the origin of "Stuka" is that in addition to the infamous WWII German dive bomber, the Germans had a special-ops reconnaissance team that also used the name "Stuka". The unit I flew with (since they were based in Germany, and also had the reconnaissance mission), adopted that name for their aircrew call signs.

That unit disbanded shortly after Desert Storm ended, and as a result I became the last pilot to use my war-time call sign, "Stuka 82". I figured that would be a meaningful online name to use, so it's stuck now (including in the form of a tattoo on my right arm!) for going on 17 years!

Damn, I'm getting old...


PS -

The Kiowa Warrior comes equipped with a couple of pretty cool lasers onboard, by the way!!

[wes]

thank you for that info.
have a happy homecoming dude.
thanks for your efforts for us.

[Stuka]

Thanks!!

Randy

[dsli_jon]

I'll probably use a GM-20 as my "shutter" device since is will spring-return to an "off" position. I figure it would be easiest build a fixed-voltage driver for the GM-20, and activate that circuit through a TTL / 5volt relay (or relay+driver circuit). I want to be able to trip the same relay (OR the GM-20 driver circuit directly) with other 5-volt inputs from case interlock switches, remote shutter safety switches, etc.

Hey Stuka -

Not sure if you're still looking for a simple solution for your relay-needs, but for something so simple like this / other projects, we've been using these for years with zero problems http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_detail...0121053,,,3,8& good, general purpose, opto-isolated, solid state (no moving relay parts, no need to energize separately) pretty bullet-proof -

As to 'where to find them', well, first - all due respect, ditch RS (they are not what they used to be in the 70s and 80s, even 90s, for electronics help) and 'let your fingers do the walking' - I'd think there would be a fairly-decent electronics surplus place near-by you (right??) If so, these are a fairly common item (other manufacx, too - specs, not make, are what to look for) and you should be able to get them (surplus) for $5-6 each (instead of $11 + ship direct from Opto - or, you can search the web or even try eBay - you'll be surprized what a little homework can get you!

As to "I want to be able to trip the same relay..." simple: just build an 'interlock' / safety/'kill' remos loop, where all those closures interrupt the 5V TTL IN-to this relay (until they are all closed/satisfied, etc)... simple as pie - well, simpler! But I am sure you already knew this one...

Certainly there are great boards out there for this, and I am sure good Mr Dave has hooked you up with his fine design (which is good for this, I am sure, and when you want to add more GM-20s/other actuators for other fx (machita, lumia, etc) later on, etc - but this was just to 'help out' with probably the simplest answer to your 'RFI', I recommend these little gems - work for many other things, too..(ie, we use them to software-control turning ON/OFF sub-systems in our 40W KTP sho-lasers, etc...) - anyhoo, hope this is helpful - PM me if you want any other info.... - peace, jon

[Stuka]

Very cool - looks like just what I need!
Thanks for the info!

Randy

[dsli_jon]

Very cool - looks like just what I need!
Thanks for the info!

hey Randy -

sure thing! yeah, they are pretty simple and multi-use - these will also serve if you were using a coil-type actuator (like a Ledex 12V rotary-solenoid, found in many Laserscope medical systems, among others...), any other questions, happy to help! - peace,
- j

[mikkojay]

Hey Stuka -
well, first - all due respect, ditch RS (they are not what they used to be in the 70s and 80s, even 90s, for electronics help)

AMEN! They will have tried to sell you three cell phones by the time you find the poorly understocked drawer with a few LED's, resistors, etc...

Also, I would second the idea of a solid-state relay. I use one to control the shop vac on my cnc wood router and it works like a champ.
Pretty cheap too.
-Mike

[greenalien]

In the UK, the RS part number for the Solid State relay recommended by dsli_jon is 241-3975, priced at £9.99 (+ VAT).

Is a GM20 happy with 15v DC applied continuously or does it overheat? I've got one in my bits box and would like to use it as a safety shutter.

[dsli_jon]

In the UK, the RS part number for the Solid State relay recommended by dsli_jon is 241-3975, priced at £9.99 (+ VAT).

Is a GM20 happy with 15v DC applied continuously or does it overheat? I've got one in my bits box and would like to use it as a safety shutter.

Hey Green -

1st, kudos on yor suggestion for the Laser Safety Forum - forwarded your post to Spec (admin) so we'll see what he says... 3 cheers!

2nd, well seeing has how that is +25%, I'd knock your 15V back with a little v regulator (mounted on a little electrically-isolated heatsink, of course to 12V, and then you have no worries...

Just FYI, this http://www.lasershs.com/laser_optical_actuator.htm is an excellent, low-cost actuator that we have used with success - though these ARE fast, (look at the specs!) we still use GM20s for beam positions, but these for simpler stuff, like beam shutters, (a GM20 is a bit $$ overkill for a shutter...) machita / lumia positions, etc... stable enough to use for fiber launchers, too, and smaller footprint - you can easily mod the arm to use longer ones as well...

oh, RE: RS, well you're lucky enough to still HAVE RS's with PARTS!!! Like Mikko there, said (LOL!) RS is good only if you want to spend $2.99 USD on 2 LEDs!!

Anyhoo, hope this helps - cheers!

- jon