The carmangary 30k galvos, the initial review

**Zoof** · 10-09-2007, 14:02

I noticed that too. Not sure what it means though. WJ is on my Raytrack35plus galvos which are actually DT40pros. I've seen in on some pics of DT40pros, including Andy_con's and also on the Laserpic galvos.

**mikkojay** · 10-10-2007, 10:04

I have a set of these and I really like them.
Gary has given me tons of help, first on wiring, now with c# code!
I also have a green laser just like the one in this picture:

I used a chunk of PCB breadboard to get it to the proper height as well (must be the great minds phenom)
Anyway, check this out- that green laser (at least the one that I have that looks just like it) has a positive ground

I damn near fried mine when I discovered this. I WAS using an aluminum shim to raise the module, but this shorted thru the table and caused the power supply's protection to kick in. I am now using the PCB material not only because it is the proper height, but because it is acting as an insulator at the same time. I don't think heat will be a problem, as I ran the thing for 30 minutes and the module never really got above room temp. My green is rated at 50 and is nice and bright. Teamed up with 229mw of Maxyz red, it combines to make a nice bright yellow.
Later, Mike

**Laser Ben** · 10-10-2007, 12:26

Yes, all lasers should be isolated if at all possible. It makes it have better blanking if I understand correctly.

**carmangary** · 10-10-2007, 19:06

Yep, I also have that green laser. I bought a piece of mica from McMaster-Carr (dirt cheap) that is great at isolating from my aluminum base plate and conducts heat well.

**allthatwhichis** · 10-10-2007, 20:09

Define isolated... Like they cannot be on, or touching, the same base plate?

I have the 30mW version of that greeny also. I found you can turn that pot up and almost double the power. I have not seen or felt the head get hotter either. I have it, my maxyz, and my CNI blue all on the same breadboard and the green and maxyz are both on copper risers, but they are all on conductive surfaces... Or do you all mean isolated power wise, like with a bus bar?

**carmangary** · 10-11-2007, 13:05

isolated electrically... or insulated from

**steve-o** · 10-11-2007, 14:44

Some laser innards are electrically insulated (e.g. Maxyzs) from their metal outsides. Some are not and can cause electrical problems.

**Laser Ben** · 10-12-2007, 11:39

Yep, the new maXYZ modules (or maXYXZ as spelled on mine

) have a mica tube around the module. It seems to do a good job and the extry protects it while adjusting focus.

**dream beamz** · 10-23-2007, 16:29

A few notes on the big dipper green. Use a thermal pad to isolate it if you want to but these dont get hot. Not because they dont get hot but because they dont transfer the heat well. Allthat, turn your pot back down, even though it doesnt feel hot on the outside, trust me it is hot and you will blow that diode out quick. I have about 4 of those dead because of that so thats when i decided to get to the bottom of the problem

If you have bought one of these diodes in the last 6 months then you are ok, i pointed out the problem and big dipper fixed it and sent me the new model, pictured below

Originally Posted by allthatwhichis

Define isolated... Like they cannot be on, or touching, the same base plate?

I have the 30mW version of that greeny also. I found you can turn that pot up and almost double the power. I have not seen or felt the head get hotter either. I have it, my maxyz, and my CNI blue all on the same breadboard and the green and maxyz are both on copper risers, but they are all on conductive surfaces... Or do you all mean isolated power wise, like with a bus bar?

**steve-o** · 10-23-2007, 16:51

Heres my take on it..

Thread: The carmangary 30k galvos, the initial review

Thread Tools

Posting Permissions