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Thread: For Sale TTL RGB 30K "kit"

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    96

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    So, this is the setup, minus a few things I know, it's a crappy picture.

    The scanner boards are in the top left. I zip tied the wires according to the serial #, up and out of the way. These are mounted.

    Middle part on the left, where the bag is, is my new FB3 controller, not yet mounted as I still need to hook up the power source and wire the projector connector.

    Bottom left is the mounted galvos. For some reason green reflects great, but goes through the y axis mirror.... Barely any diffraction of the beam, if that's what you call it....

    Just to the right of the galvos we have the green laser mounted on wood, mounted on the plate. I couldn't find anything else the exact height... Now, I outlined the laser, so the wood is getting cut to size tomorrow

    To the right of the laser, we have it's power supply. That will be mounted right behind it with the cords most likely tied to the side of the housing....

    Above that is the amp which has not been mounted because I need the little rubber stand things

    Other than the big mess, how am I doing so far?

    Tomorrow is a day with the multimeter.

    Because I have my red coming, would it be smart NOT to solder the wires together just yet. I'd hate to ruin them. I am just going to strip, twist, and crimp with electrical tape. That should work right?

    Also, I have NO clue how to use LiveQ. I just wanna make my diffracted laser wave :-D

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
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    7,067

    Lightbulb



    I don't see no pics man...

  3. #43
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    Nov 2007
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    96

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Ok,

    Here is what I need to do...

    I need to strip the power supply and attach it to the FB3 controller, the only thing is I do not know which wire is which for polarity. I know I have a multimeter somewhere. Unfortunately, it's from radioshack and cost me $33 I couldn't find one anywhere else One is plain white, and the other is white with gray dashes. Anyone know which is which?

    The most challenging part I think is going to be wiring the connector piece from the lasers and amp to the controller. I'm kind scared about doing that.

    Other than those two things, I just need to cut the wood and mount it, and mount the amp. Put a housing around the whole projector and it's done With only green that is...

    Nothing is being soldered this time around, because I'll have my other lasers hopefully on Saturday. With all three lasers in there, I'm going to need to expand the mounting plate, I don't think it will fit everything. What do others normally do with all the extra wires and power boxes? Stick them outside in another house?

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    If you like I will take a couple of snap shots of mine when I get home. It is a lil ghetto, but it should give you an idea or two. DZ and spec wired mine up at SELEM. I get a few of that for you and post them here later, probably in 6 or so hours.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    96

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    I have everything figured out. I got a crash course in electronics earlier, and I figured it all out

    The only thing I'm stuck on now is

    There is black, red, white, and blue. I don't know which one to hook up to x or y signal and ground, or anything. There is two cords, one each from the board and those 4 wires on each cord.


    I have x signal, x ground
    y signal y ground
    intensity signal
    intensity ground
    interlock a
    interlock b
    shutter signal
    shutter ground

    I don't know where those colors go

    Also, does the FB3 controller have to be plugged into everything else while turned on to work....because I turn on it's power source and it doesn't turn on....the polarity is correct.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    I am not sure which scanners you have, but you need to find out, probably in the manual, which colored wire is for what on your scanners. then you hook the:

    x+ to pin 1
    y+ to pin 2
    x- to pin 14
    y- to pin 15

    I think... There should be a help file you can open and see the ILDA pin out... Well there is in LD2000.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    96

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    Well, I was looking at the DMX board for the FB3, but I was corrected

    Still don't know which colors are which.

    And my FB3 doesn't power on The 5V DC is hooked up and USB is in

    The "manual" I have is two pieces of paper that say nothing of the colors.

    BLK-30 galvo-based scanner

    Still not turning on....I even double checked the polarity and to have a solid connection.....I am very disappointed....
    Last edited by Dj_Nexus; 11-15-2007 at 18:38.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
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    2,147,489,446

    Cool

    Did you buy your scanners from Dave and Aijii at LaserShowParts.com? Have a look at this link to the manual for the 30K galvos that they sell. If that looks like the set you have, chances are that they use the same wiring.

    If that's the case, then the red wire is X (or Y) -, blue is X (or Y) +, black is signal ground (pin 25 on the ilda connector), and white is the scanner feedback signal, which you don't need to connect to anything. (Just fold it back and tape it to the cable.)

    As to how to connect those signals to the ILDA cable, have a look at this post by Cruch where he included a color-coded diagram of which signals belong on which pins. Then just solder the correct wires to the correct pins, connect the ILDA connector to the output of the FB3, and you're all set.

    Looking at the picture in your post above, it appears that you've only got the green laser installed right now. In that case you want to connect the blanking lead from the laser to the Intensity + signal. That way the green laser will be on no matter which color the frame actually calls for. (If you were to use the green color signal instead, the displayed image would be missing large parts of the picture because it would only display the parts of the image that were supposed to be green, or had green mixed with some other color.)

    The shutter pins are used to control your shutter (usually a solenoid that blocks the beam). You'll likely need a relay to switch the higher current needed for the shutter, and be sure to put some shunting diodes across the relay so when it cuts off you don't send a spike back to the controller.

    The interlock circuit is designed to be a loop that runs through all interlock devices *and* through the ILDA cable itself. You wire a master relay somewhere inside your projector that controls power to everything. The power that runs through the pull-in coil for that relay runs through the interlock circuit. Then you put the keyswitch, the case-open switch, and any other interlock devices in series with that same circuit. The controller simply connects the Interlock A and B lines internally. So that way if you yank the ILDA cable out of the projector, everything shuts off because you've broken the interlock circuit and killed power to the maser relay. Likewise, if you shut the key off it kills everything. Or if you open the case, everything stops. Etc....

    Re: the FB3: Connect it to the computer via the USB cable, power it up, then load the software. If the software is talking to the FB3 you're all set. If not, then check your cable connections, and check your power supply. (Not sure if there is a fuse on the FB3 or not? Might want to look for one though...)

    BTW - you don't need to have everything mounted on the optical plate. If you want more room for other lasers (like when you make your RGB rig), all you need on the plate is the lasers, the optical mounts, and the galvos. The scanner amps, laser drivers, and power supplies can all be placed elsewhere inside your projector housing. (Many people like to put them below the optical table.)

    Check to see how hot the scanner amps get when they're actually in operation and the scanners are displaying a pattern. If they get hot, make sure you mount them to some sort of heat sink (some large chunk of metal should do fine - even the underside of the optical table is OK). If you can't attach them to a heat sink then you need to have a fan blowing on them to keep them cool. Same goes for the driver modules for the lasers. You want to keep them cool. (I think you'll be OK on that one; if memory serves, the modules you bought from Fred run pretty cool.)

    Adam

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    96

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    I click on the driver installation and it keeps saying pre-installation is complete. Plug in the device to activate the drivers. So, still no power to the FB3....I really really REALLY hope it's no defective.

    Relay...does that mean I need more parts What is this relay for the shutter, and shunting diodes? I'm lost with that. Are these NEEDED? I'll be right next to the power switch if anything happens. Assuming that's what the master relay is for. I don't need a key turn on or case open switch.

    Yes, those are the scanners I have so I will wire accordingly Thank you for your help

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