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Thread: Just got Die4Driver, and I am sure I will need help... ;)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Central Florida
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    Lightbulb Just got Die4Driver, and I am sure I will need help... ;)

    Greetings and salutations!!!

    I just got my Die4Driver in the mail. Would have been here earlier but UK postal workers weren't happy with something, so they weren't working when I paid... Slaquers... Not too bad though, paid on 10/09, arrived in Florida on 10/17.

    I am opening this, well, cause a lot of you know me, or of me and know I'm not too proficient with electronic innurds and have burnt myself with a soldering iron more times than I have actually don't something productive with it. I did manage to get a greeny PSU's power connector reattached when it got loose, but that's my main accomplishment with an iron.

    So, when I get home in 3 hours I plan to try and hook this beastly board up and run my 30mW aixiz greeny off of it in hopes of getting analog modulation for it. Then I can figure out what is wrong with my lasever green...

    In 3 hours and fifteen minutes I expect to have aquired a few soldering questions that I would love to share with y'all. Especially you guys how have wired up one of these drivers before. And Robin... you don't have any plans in 3 or 4 hours do you?

    Grab a drink, and see you then.
    Love, peace, and grease,

    allthat... aka: aaron@pangolin

  2. #2
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    Default

    Ill be about on and off for the next couple of hours
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Default

    If you want safe practise, find some broken widget with a circuit board and remake a few of its smaller solder joints to get the hang of timing the applying and removal of iron and solder for the neatest cleanest joint possible. Once you can repeatedly and easily get them as good as the originals you're good to go.

    So long as your wires and pads are very clean it will be just as easy.

  4. #4
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    Pflugerville, TX, USA
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    I just did it. What worked well for me is lots of liquid flux, a good narrow tipped iron. Don't try with a $15 radio shack special, and a good magnifying lamp. Them position the component, and with just the slightest about of solder on the tip just touch one end of the component (while holding it down with something). Then the other side. Then apply a bit more solder if needed. It's very easy actually.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Central Florida
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks guys! I just got in and am looking at the board. It doesn't look too hard. There are only what, 5 or 6 places I need to add wires to. It looks like there is already a small amount of solder on those spots also. Just a lil heat and press. I hope. I may look around for a nice sized picture. I think Robin has one on his site.

  6. #6
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    Oct 2006
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    Question

    1st question...

    Where do I hook the blanking leads to? I can't find any pic where someone has hooked up blanking with it.

    2nd...

    Can I use a solid, single wire, like telcom wire/a pair out of a CAT 5 cable? I have a roll of cross connect wire and I try to use it for anything I can. It will also be eaiser to work with cause it is rigid.

  7. #7
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    the blanking leads attach to gnd and drv pads - these are near the 2 trimmers. During testing, connect the drv pad to the set pad. This will do the same as applying 5v to the drv pad.

    Of course you can use single core wire. Although it probably wont take being moved around too much...
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  8. #8
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    the blanking leads attach to gnd and drv pads - these are near the 2 trimmers. During testing, connect the drv pad to the set pad. This will do the same as applying 5v to the drv pad.

    Of course you can use single core wire. Although it probably wont take being moved around too much...
    Thanks dave!

    I was thinking of going from the board to a small bus bar, then to the wires that may get moved around, but I know your point.

  9. #9
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    Heres a quick pic Aaron... Bit out of focus... You can see I have set and drv linked, just so the driver doesn't need a blanking signal to work..

    You do know what rating the diode in the green laser is?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMGP2632.JPG  

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  10. #10
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    Lightbulb

    I think I have a newer revision. And no, I couldn't figure it out. When I put a meter in line with the diode it doesn't come on. I can put the lead on the probe metal and it comes on but I get no reading since I technicly took the meter out of the loop. I tried several ways to get the meter in the right spot but could never get the laser to come on. Robin set it at it's lowest setting. It is only a lil 30mW from aixiz. They look like the 50mW heads. I think you do or did have the same looking one. Open PSU.

    I finally got the blanking leads on. There are some fundamental technics and theorys on soldering I have no idea about, or any for that matter. They don't look too bad though. Now to the power leads. O, I am using twisted wire instead of the single line. I'd have broke that a dozen times already.

    Edit:
    Power leads were a lot easier...
    Last edited by allthatwhichis; 10-18-2007 at 06:33.

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