Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 26

Thread: In the MIX

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,446

    Default

    Well, you'll probably end up doing what most of us did. Settle for less, and use analog modulation to dial the other lasers back to get your color balance.

    In my case, I started with a 100 mw blue because that's all I could afford. I added an 85 mw green (which normally ends up being turned down to around 60 mw or so before all the optical losses hit it) and a pair of Maxyz modules (which are also turned down a tad).

    Now I'm thinking about adding a second blue (with a PBS cube) to give me 200 mw of blue. Then I can crank up my maxyz modules to full. But that also means I'll want more green, so I might need to bump the green up to 100 mw or so. (And actually, I'm thinking about going with 250 mw of green so I can have the extra punch for beamshows.)

    You can get 100 mw of blue for around $750 if you're willing to take the chance on a US distributor. (We're talking Lasever here, not CNI.) Or you can save up and buy from LaserShowParts.com. Yeah, it's more expensive that way, but keep in mind that I've had to send my blue laser back to China TWICE at my own expense. Plus I'm currently without the use of my projector, at least until my blue laser comes back. So remember that there are trade-offs involved if you decide to go cheap like I did.

    Adam

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Essex, England
    Posts
    798

    Default

    I would use CNI but either way it's a lot of money.

    I think I will shed a tear when I do though.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    2,478

    Default

    Laser Lips-

    Found a great simple chart to help "visualize" a good white balance (or proper power proportions) and to make your calculations easy

    Buffo had an exceelent explanation and excellent references, but here it is in a nutshell-

    635=42.48% (of total desired output)
    532=25.09% (of total desired output)
    473=32.42% (of total desired output)

    Example- 500mW RGB centered at 635=
    R-210mW
    G-125mW
    B-160mW


    Centered at 660 RED-

    660=70.38% (of total desired output)
    532=13.18% (of total desired output)
    473=16.44% (of total desired output)

    Example 500mW RGB centered at 660=
    R-350mW
    G-65mW
    B-80mW

    (+/- a few mW's here or there. i didnt go down to fractions of a percent)

    -Marc

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    1,120

    Default

    I don't know where Dr Laser is quoting his numbers from, but he's posted several times in the last couple weeks suggesting that you need more green than blue.

    Actually I didn't pay attention to green I was calculating based on red as a most weak for a human eye. He has 440nm@660 which is as I said about ~130mw@635. (Actually formula for 660 is 4-1-1.5 So to be more exact 110mw)The formula I use for 635 is 2-1-1.5 2 red 1 green and 1 and half blue.
    So 110/2=55+27=80mw Plus green if it's placed at the back of the mixture chain will loose some of it's power because of optics. 440@660 is just not enough for 250mw blue and at the end it'll make a very very blueish white.
    Actually it'll be cyan.
    If 440 was @ 635 then yeah 440mw red 200 green 250 blue. But his is 660nm.
    I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Essex, England
    Posts
    798

    Default

    You know thats made be slightly happier... means I dont have to shell out shed loads to get a nice laser. I can get away with just 80 blue (although of course I'd like them ALL more powerfull)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    1,120

    Default

    Oppsss... sorry.
    2-1-1.5 is for 635
    4-1-1.5 is for 650
    6-1-1.5 is for 660
    8-1-1.5 for 671
    I hired an Italian guy to do my wires. Now they look like spaghetti!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,446

    Cool

    My problem is the 1 to 1.5 ratio for blue to green that you've been quoting. Based on the eye's response to color, that isn't enough blue.

    Adam

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    7,067

    Lightbulb

    I have to agree with Adam. My 30mW green matched very well with my 60mW blue. I'm not sure what my green is now as it is a 150mW that I have potted way down until it made a nice white/yellow/cyan with the others. I'd say around 30mW though compared to my 30mW that recent;y died, or I killed. I think mine is running 200R(660):30G(532):60B(473) or 6.7:1:2.

    But it will be up to your eyes with your projector. With your other two, I'd go for a 200mW blue, and make sure your green is the one going through the most dichros.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Essex, England
    Posts
    798

    Default

    I wish I had understood the numbers before I plummped for the maxzy's...Not that I'm unhappy with them Just that now I know I could have got away with a brighter red but had to put up with divergence, I would have been happy as I rekon I'm gonna be a beam show man rather than graphics, esepecially with the 20k scanners I've got. Oh well live and learn..

    So is the gist of this get a 200MW blue?

    Thanks all.
    G

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,489,446

    Cool

    There is a solution if you decide you want more red. I've managed to find a source for a dichro that will reflect 635 nm (at around 98% efficiency) and pass 660 (at around 95 % efficiency). Now, the damn things are expensive ($95 each if you buy a lot of 10 of them), but they're custom made to those specs so it's understandable.

    So in the future you could add, say, 150 mw of 635 nm red and essentially TRIPPLE the amount of red you have. (Because 635 nm red appears so much brighter to the human eye.) Of course, this assumes that we can get enough people interested in the custom dichro to complete the order...

    Bottom line - get your projector built and see how you like it. Then decide if it's worth spending more money to increase the power. With regard to your blue - if you can afford 200 mw then go for it. If not, then buy as much as you can afford.

    Adam

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •