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Thread: Laser blanking problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    27

    Default Laser blanking problem

    Hi Guys

    I have a green dpss laser head & driver unit.
    The unit works perfectly but the blanking doesnt work with standard TTL blanking 0 volts off & +5volts on
    When the laser is turned on the beam is displayed & at the rear of the driver module there are 2 wires coloured red & yellow.
    When these wires are joined together the beam goes off.
    Can any of you guy`s assist me with a diagram e.t.c that will allow me to make the blanking of this laser work via 0 volts off & 5 volts on
    Ritchie

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    1,355

    Default

    My lasever is the exact same way, if you touch the leads together it blanks the output. As soon as I connected my wires to my FB3 everything worked fine.

    What hardware/software package are you using?

    -Max

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    27

    Default Ritchie Blanking Problems

    Hi max

    Thanks for your Reply

    My setup consists of 4 seperate lasers.
    3 seperate dpss green Systems 2 x 500mw & a 1Watt & A 1.5 Watt RGB system.
    All the lasers units are ILDA Compliant & can be driven from any ILDA Controller.
    The controllers i am useing are Pangolin & Laser Visuals .
    All of the lasers systems work perfectly on +ve TTL blanking but i am trying to get this single Green DPSS laser to work on +VE TTL Blanking.

    Cheers Ritchie
    Ritchie

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,488,500

    Cool

    I'm assuming that you want to use this green laser in a monochrome projector, which means you want to use the intensity signal and not the green color signal from your controller.

    Connect the red wire from the laser to pin 3 of the projector's ILDA connector (Intensity + signal) and connect the yellow wire to Pin 25 (ground) on the projector's ILDA connector.

    That should work. If not, then try reversing the two wires.

    International convention for DC circuits dictates red = + and yellow (note: not black) = gnd. So assuming they followed the guidelines when they built your laser, red should be the blanking lead and yellow should be ground. (But granted, this is a big assumption, which is why you may have to reverse the leads.)

    The intensity + signal (pin 3) will be at ground potential when the laser is to be blanked. It will be at +5 volts when the laser should be on.

    Adam

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    27

    Default laser blanking

    HI Adam

    Thanks for your reply.

    The laser does blank..but blanks the image & leaves the lines ???.
    The viasho lasers that i use have a switch at the rear for +ve & -ve blanking & when the switch is set to the wrong setting i think -ve it displays the same effect.
    So the laser requires some sort of +ve ttl to -ve ttl invertor

    Cheers Ritchie
    Ritchie

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,488,500

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by laserads View Post
    The laser does blank..but blanks the image & leaves the lines ???.
    Ok - that's easy to fix. You need to invert the blanking signal. Fortunately, that functionality is already built-in to the ILDA standard. Connect the yellow wire to Pin 25 (ground) and take the red wire that was connected to pin 3 (+ intensity) and switch it to pin 16 (- intensity). That should solve your problem.
    The viasho lasers that i use have a switch at the rear for +ve & -ve blanking & when the switch is set to the wrong setting i think -ve it displays the same effect.
    Yeah, some lasers have that built-in. It's a nice feature, but not many lasers have it. Fortunately the ILDA standard supports both, so it's not really needed.
    So the laser requires some sort of +ve ttl to -ve ttl invertor
    Nah - just use the inverted blanking signal on the ILDA connector. You'll be fine.

    Adam

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    29

    Default

    This is very common and very simple to fix. Just start off by having everything hooked up normally as you already have it then just put a 2k resistor between the blanking signal plus and blanking signal minus to see if that is enough to pull the signal down too ground. If not then work your way down the chain. We found in the past that 1k does it the majority of the time but in few occasions a 200 Ohm resister was required to achieve the desired outcome. I know I know it is so close to ground but it was the only way to turn it completely off in certain situations.

    OSLS

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