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Thread: RGB getting closer...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Rotorua New Zealand
    Posts
    528

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    Hi all..
    Gee, thanks guys for all the comments I will have to get a bigger hat so my fat head can fit in it.

    But first of all you guys take a bow everything on my RGB and my two greens came from you guys.

    In particular Adam (Buffo), Bill Brenner and Rob (Stanwax) and many others who have offered tips to me over past months) ...

    One way of course to keep it tidy is to think through the wiring layout ( I can cheat here a bit as I do electronics for a living). Very small nylon ties are very good at helping.
    You can also get the very small co-ax with twin twisted inners from audio cable. In fact how you do it is go to your local Pro Audio shop and see if you can get an off-cut from a multi core "snake" this will have small inner "co axes" and fully color coded.
    Mine came from a 10pair cable off cut I had left over. Snake cable also makes good ILDA cables with balanced lines (read differential input).

    Alignment... This was something I sweated over big time however in the end it was easy (at least so far). First set up using the green as was covered here very well some months ago (see Rob [Stanwax] article on alignment a must have for us newbies). Use the actual laser beam and measure it's height.
    Work out the shim heights. Now here is a little trick some may not be aware of, you can buy very thin, like 20 thous', aluminium. This is used in aircraft work
    . You could buy it in the USA from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty in LA or I am sure from many other aircraft suppliers.
    You then get as close as you can get with the "big shim" ( I was lucky with the Maxy as that turned out to be exactly 8mm a standard size). But if very close just start cutting up 20 thous shims, (I had to go back and lift the green by 20 thous to align with the blue) you can do this with ordinary snips. Just step up to where you want to be. Done !! Also dont forget aluminium foil maybe an option but without the sticky back)

    I see the advantage with shims as there is nothing to come out of adjustment ( I think and I hope) also there is good heat sinking.

    So the alignment took about one hour for my lack of knowledge and about ten minutes after reading Robs (Stanwax) article here on PL.

    So as I say, I am most grateful for all your kind comments but in reality it has been you guys that have made this happen.
    So let me say thank you once again.

    I will be back with some more pix and already I have some questions on various things so please be ready Adam / Rob and co' ..

    Now back to playing Snoopy's Xmas for the 30th time, the neighbours kids just love it.

    Thanks Guys

    RAy
    NZ

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Herts, UK
    Posts
    1,254

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    Very nice Ray, obviously lots of time and thought has gone into that

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    98

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    I had read that anything more than 2 lasers is very difficult to align. I'm wondering if all the beams are polarized the same and in phase.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Why do you say that? I would venture to guess that was very easy to align!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    1,355

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    It is true the more lasers you add to a projector the more difficult it will be to align. Just because everything has to be perfect in near and far field.

    As far as polarity. No. They aren't in fact if they were, that Maxyz module wouldn't work properly But really polarization in most cases is not needed to be taken into consideration. Unless of course you are combining multiple beams of the same color.

    Quote Originally Posted by nanoWatt View Post
    I had read that anything more than 2 lasers is very difficult to align. I'm wondering if all the beams are polarized the same and in phase.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Rotorua New Zealand
    Posts
    528

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    Hi again..

    Just a couple of things firstly I made a typo when I was spelling out Bill's name sorry about that but I am sure he knows who I mean.

    I forgot to answer some of the questions..

    Power : The RGB is made up of..

    Red . twin Maxi'z @450mw
    Green is a CNI 500mw
    Blue is a CNI 250 mw
    Galvos are DT040 Pros

    The higher powered green is to allow beam show use.

    One thing I have learned is that the higher powered greens also have a slightly "fat" beam at 3mm plus they tend not to be TEM00 at low power settings. This is not noticeable by the average viewer.
    I may change the green to a lower powered 2mm beam to match the very nice blue and red beams I have on this machine.

    As to cost I'll get back to you on that I haven't done a complete budget on it yet (too scared to look).

    Cheers

    Ray

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    1,355

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitts View Post
    Red . twin Maxi'z @450mw
    Green is a CNI 500mw
    Blue is a CNI 250 mw
    Galvos are DT040 Pros

    The higher powered green is to allow beam show use.
    Thats my thought too...

    One thing I have learned is that the higher powered greens also have a slightly "fat" beam at 3mm plus they tend not to be TEM00 at low power settings. This is not noticeable by the average viewer.
    I may change the green to a lower powered 2mm beam to match the very nice blue and red beams I have on this machine.
    Maybe you might want to look for a green PBS cube and have both... Just a thought. You might want to contact Bridge, and see if he can make the green PBS.

    As to cost I'll get back to you on that I haven't done a complete budget on it yet (too scared to look).
    i think we're all in that same boat I dont even have a blue laser in my projector and I am afraid.

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