"TO DO IS TO BE" - Nietzsche
"TO BE IS TO DO" - Kant
"DO BE DO BE DO" - Sinatra
I basically copied them from a spec sheet I found for Edmunds Optics mounts found here:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...productID=2782
They sell them for $75 and that is less than I would charge. It took me 4 or 5 hours to make each one because I only have a cheap Harbor Freight mini-mill.
I have one of those cheap 20 piece end mill sets from Harbor Freight. I also have a boring bar set that I use to create the holes for the dichros to fit into. I also used it to create a couple of mounts for those Aixiz diode holders. I have a bunch of other stuff but I hardly use any of it.
If you are going to buy anything from Harbor Freight you should consider getting a Harbor Freight credit card. It is actually issued by Bank of America. I earned a bunch of $20 gift cards by just paying for everything with my Harbor Freight card for several months.
Again thanks for the heads up! I probably would have been lost in the world of milling without your help!
Happy New Years!
Hell Yeah!
Your projector is looking good there, Gary! I *really* like the mounts you made. Awesome work. What pitch threads did you use on the adjustment screws? I had a buddy that was looking into making his own mounts, but he had a hell of a time finding the 60 TPI screws and taps. He felt that 40 TPI wasn't fine enough for his needs, so he abandoned the project.
However, I've got 32 TPI adjustment screws on my floating optical tables, and that seems to be enough, so I'm wondering what you ended up going with.
But again, very nice layout. Keep the pics coming! (How about some beam shots.?.)
Adam
I am sure you could buy the tech spec screws from Edmund Optics, although they are probably pretty expensive. I guess then all you need is the tap.... One step closer right? haha.
Thanks for the comments.
The screws I have right now are 40tpi. The adjustment is a little coarse but it doesn't make it hard to line things up at all. The only problem I have with them is that the tips are flat (like any normal machine screw) and when I turn them it causes the other piece of metal to move up/down and left/right (instead of just in and out) as it rides on the diameter of the tip of the screw.
I could probably make the tips pointy or rounded to fix the problem but I decided to over engineer it and have ordered some 1/4"-80tpi set screws with ball bearing tips and a matching tap. I hope that fixes it.