LED wiring in line-

[DZ]

Well, I'm sure you realize that the compliance guide is not the same thing as the actual regulation. The passage that I quoted above was direct from 21 CFR 1040.10. Also, the compliance guide was last updated back in 1989, whereas the actual regulation was just updated in April of last year. (Many of the changes were part of the whole "least burdensome approach" thing they've been implementing lately.)

I do, however I think the regulation regarding this lacks fine detail, which is made up for the in compliance guide. Last thing I'd ever want to run into is some bonehead CDRH rep saying, "Well didn't you consult the Compliance Guide?" Anyway, as mliptack suggested, the only reason I bring it up is to spur this conversation. It would be great to iron out the fine details such as this so we can all build quality, certifiable projectors.

You know, this might be an amusing topic to bring up with a CDRH rep.

Well, it will be interesting to hear the results which would benefit many of us here.

Regarding the STPx-8, or whatever, I'd be willing to bet, that the response time of the GM-20 is much better than the STP-8. Wish I had known you needed one, I just sold off my last one! Here's one I found on ebay, reasonably priced with armature. They really are an ideal solution. http://cgi.ebay.com/Scanner-Galvo-Ga...sid=p1638.m118 I just love the guys comment, buy this gm20 and go on tour and make millions of dollars!! Its from Laserman532, hey, isn't that a member here?

[mliptack]

Snagged it...

Ok, sorry this is going to go off topic for a moment (so sorta a second tangent...)

I've been designing the power circuit for my projector and I am taking into consideration... well pretty much everything...

I know the shutter needs to go in line before everything, preferably there should be one right at the aperature of every laser. The reason why I am bringing this up is because I am using an actuator for a grating effect in my projector, lets say the power supply for the actuators fail. The grating actuator closes a moment faster than the shutter actuator... ... well there isn't much of a question as much as a 'then what' scenario

I know that if you have any effect in your projector that you are using or not - if - by some fluke it turns on it should always be directed into a safely terminated area, just like any beam you are using. Or it should be completely removed or blocked before such an event could happen.

What would be another logical fool-proof and SAFE route?

I was thinking, well maybe I should have two separate 12v supplies for the actuators. But then it COULD be worse if the grating effect actuator fails, because the laser beam would not be terminated by the actuator.

This whole idea is actually not really relevant to my projector since the 12v supply I am using is also the control for the interlock (SSR - which supplies power to the laser power supplies) and I would imagine the SSR reacts just about as fast as the actuators.


Ok, I hope this made some sense... :-/
-Max

[mliptack]

Also... well this is back on track to the original discussion...

Could the Emission LED power on with a REALLY generous lead time?

I mean, with my circuit I am going to have an LED that shows the projector HAS power but is not necessarily on. Another LED with show that the projector has been Turned On VIA the key switch. Could that second LED also act as a laser emission LED if my SSR is on a timer circuit that would allow a several second delay? This wouldn't mean the lasers turn on, but simply WARN that it could happen.

-Max

[buffo]

Well, I called the CDRH today, and after getting bounced around several times I finally got in touch with the correct department. However, several of the folks in that department were tied up in a meeting, and the best resource they had (Dale Smith) had already left for the day. Sigh. I guess I'll call back tomorrow. Interestingly enough, Dale Smith was the head laser show guru back when I called the CDRH in 2003. Cool that he's still there... I'll post the results of my call tomorrow (assuming I get in touch with him).

Max, I'll be sure to post pictures and comments when I get that actuator from Fluff. If it works as a shutter, so much the better. If not, well - I can always go back to the solenoid I guess.

As for using the LED for power-on as an emission indicator, that's something I wanted to ask Dale. Technically it isn't indicating emission, since you would have the light on even at times when no emission is possible (because the shutter is closed, for example). But maybe it's OK to be extra conservative... I mean, so long as the light is on when there *is* emission, is it really a big deal if the light is also on when there isn't emission? I dunno, but I expect Dale will have the answer.

Good call snagging that GM-20 from Laserman 532 Max! And David, yeah, he's a member here. (His avatar looks like a Halloween monster mask.)

Adam

[mliptack]

Good call snagging that GM-20 from Laserman 532 Max! And David, yeah, he's a member here. (His avatar looks like a Halloween monster mask.)

Hah thanks, sorry if you wanted it Adam... I've been looking for a reasonably priced GM-20 for a LONG time, I couldn't pass up the deal.

I look forward to hearing what your CDRH man Dale says. I wonder if he could share some ways he has seen other people do it before.

-Max

[buffo]

I'll be sure to write up a summary of my discussion with Dale. Also, I got the contact info for the radiation safety officer for the CDRH regional office in Tampa. (The next-closest office was either Massachusetts or Ohio, take your pick!) I'm going to call him at some point in the near future and see if he has anyone that works near my area. If so, I'll try to set up a meeting so we can discuss things.

But one step at a time. First order of business is to call Dale tomorrow!

Adam

PS: Don't sweat it about the GM-20. I think these actuators from Fluff will work just fine. If not, I'm sure DZ will be able to find a source for me!