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Thread: Pioneer 112 Results (red Hot)

  1. #11
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    cool I look forward to it

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

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  2. #12
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    Pflugerville, TX, USA
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    Can you give me a link to where I can get one of those 5.6mm counterbores? I have been wanting to buy one for my milling machine but don't know where to get it. Also, a link to the thermal expoxy?

    Thanks!

  3. #13
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    Oct 2006
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    Cleveland, Ohio
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    the thermal epoxy looks like this:
    http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm
    I have used it before and it's pretty good stuff. You should keep it in the fridge to make it last.

  4. #14
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    Sep 2007
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    ,essex, uk
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    Hi Carmangary, the tool I use to counter bore the aluminium rod is a 7/32 slot drill which I put in my lathe I drill the aluminium rod first at 4 mm which gives enough room for the wires and pins on the back of the diode to pass through then I use the slot drill to counter bore the aluminium to a depth of about 1.6/2mm depending on the type of diode it should not matter if you go a tiny bit deeper than having the diode flush with the end (the 5.6 mm part). Once I have drilled and counter bored the rod I then wire up the diode with some insulated small copper multicore wire as this is much more flexible than single core wire then I cut a couple pieces of heat shrink tubing 1/16 diameter about 3/8 long slide it over the soldered wires then make sure the tubing is as close as possible to the diode covering the diode pins and I hold the wires and diode in front of a fan heater for about 10 seconds until the tubing has shrunk tight around the wires and pins this stops accidental short circuits between pins and inside the aluminium tubing once it is mounted. I then test the diode for about 10 second taking it just pass threshold to make sure its ok, I then mix up the ARTIC SILVER THERMAL EPOXY resin comes in 2 tubes that you mix up equally one you have mixed it up if you do this at room temp you have about 7 minutes to put the resin around the counter bore tiny amount spread equally I normally have the diode wires already through the aluminium with a tiny weight on the wires about 1/2 oz keeping the aluminium bar vertical with the counter bore at the top held by a soldering assistant but a vice or any type of tool will do as long as it is sturdy I the let the diode come into position in the counter bore the little weight on the end of the wires makes sure that it keeps the diode in position I then carefully put more of the resin around the diode to ensure it takes the heat away from the diode, then its just a question of time if the air temp is around 21 degrees then in about 2 hours its normally hard enough to do what you like with the diode after several hours its solid this resin is good for a few reasons 1/ it does not put any excess pressure on the diode by trying to squash it into the fixing 2/it guarantees that it will hold it in position and 3/it will suck the heat away very quickly hope this helps give us a shout if you need more info
    i took a pic but im having trouble with image shack dont know why its being very un responcive

  5. #15
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    thermal epoxy: make your own?
    http://www.overclockers.com/tips683/

  6. #16
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    seems quite a bit of work to get what is already been made for you and the thing is the artic silver is a proven compound and is not conductive you get the same results evey time the 3.5 grams of the artic silver cost me £6 and had done over 30 diodes and im roughly half way through the tube i am not saying dont have a go at mixing your own up but if you want quick consitant results every time you cant go wrong with artic silver just my thoughts anyway
    Paul

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaz View Post
    seems quite a bit of work to get what is already been made for you and the thing is the artic silver is a proven compound and is not conductive you get the same results evey time the 3.5 grams of the artic silver cost me £6 and had done over 30 diodes and im roughly half way through the tube i am not saying dont have a go at mixing your own up but if you want quick consitant results every time you cant go wrong with artic silver just my thoughts anyway
    Paul
    My thoughts exactly - I wouldn't apply it without a testing - and arctic silver has been proven so it saves a lot of work.
    I found the link to the article on wavelength measuring.
    http://people.uncw.edu/ganl/fizix102..._s2005_102.pdf

    Would be very interesting to know if it is 660nm, 655nm or 650nm. Making a big setup will increase accuracy. Will you give it a go?

    cheers,
    z.

  8. #18
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    Feb 2007
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    Herts, UK
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    All very interesting stuff with the Pioneer diodes Paul.
    Are you bringing any of these diodes or modules along to UKLEM

  9. #19
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    Sep 2007
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    ,essex, uk
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    Sorry for the delay for some reason my dsl line was playing up last night heres the pic better late than never.

    i so so want to get to the uklem meeting but with my health at the moment i dont know the medication that i am on at the moment is giving me a hard time iv visited the doctors more times in the past 6 weeks than in the past 20 years due to me having a minor stroke several weeks ago( did not see that comming) i am unable to drive and public transport makes me ill thinking about it lol i think andy con is going to the uklem and he does live in the same county as me i dont know how he is getting there maybe i get a lift with him and share petrol or something ill have to drop him a line to ask
    also zoof what do you think i should use as the diffraction grating so i can try and obtain the wavelength
    Last edited by kaz; 01-31-2008 at 02:44. Reason: added something

  10. #20
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    Paul

    I hope you can make it to the meet - it would be good to meet you - sorry to hear of your troubles hopefully your situation will improve soon.
    As for gratings try using one from a CD/DVD drive, with a known wavelength you can work out the grating spacing allowing you to then calculate the wavelength of unknowns. If you havent got a CD/DVD grating drop me a PM with your address and I will stick one in the post to you.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

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