Senior Member
Adam, saw the raised stuff your talking about and the prymids....infact the one I knicked/borrowed was the only one in the bog which had this type of pattern....its very old as it started life see through but it now quite yellow. It's also REALLY britle and It will be hard to cut nice shapes form....
I left a bit at work because I couldnt fit it in my bad but I have a feeling the cleaner would have cleared it away....I really hope not....I'll shoot you some over if it's still there.
The best lumia effects that I've found are with glass - either "granite" or "ice" (same textured surface as Graham is using). I can appreciate the ease of cutting plastic, but haven't found anything that produces as crisp an image as when using glass.
I just got a jig for cutting circles in glass, and plan to cut out some wheels that create some new and interesting effects. I'll post pictures this weekend. If this cutter works as advertised, I'll be glad to repeat my earlier offer for lumia wheels to any member on the forum at my cost for materials + shipping (read: cheap).
One effect worth trying is to place the beam through two wheels/pieces, slowly spinning one while holding the other one stationary. The effect I'm seeing (glass has an ice pattern like Graham is using) is a lumia pattern that appears to slowly lag or trail the current image as it spins....very nice effect.
Greg
Senior Member
wow,really nice.
Thanks for sharing.
Senior Member
Hi Greg, thast what Im after aswel....Ive seen wha I thought were computer graphics producing this effect but after I read a description I saw that it was indeed a real object doing it. You could say the effect was like the Windows screen saver thing thast bounces from side to side....it's that type of appear / dissapear type trail. What are you using for motors to turn the wheel? I suppose you would be better of usin the wheel by changing the beam path to point at the wheel... I'm quite happy though just putting hte plastic in the beams path and use a very slow moving animation. They are both producing the saem effect, although I think putting the platics AFTER te scanners will give you enlessely more effect than if you diret the beam into the wheel. How about this...One effect worth trying is to place the beam through two wheels/pieces, slowly spinning one while holding the other one stationary. The effect I'm seeing (glass has an ice pattern like Graham is using) is a lumia pattern that appears to slowly lag or trail the current image as it spins....very nice effect.
What is shows is the scanners turned to face away from teh normal exit window and face into the box, pointing at a mirror very close to the scanners held by an acttator ( or a movale arm ) which then directs the beam out of the box. Behind the movable mirror is another mirror which when exposed to teh beam will direct it through the still or rotaing plastic.
You then have the ability to scan the platic using multiple beams, shapes and colours rather than just directnig a static beam.
Forgive me if this has been done or suggested already. AS my box is so blimmin big I might give this a go...
Graham
Senior Member
Hey, Graham...Originally Posted by laserLips
Have you tried firing it through a crate full of empty beer bottles? I'm sure you could fit that in your case as well
Sorry mate, don't mean to poke fun, but I couldn't resist it. You've certainly got plenty of room for expansion.
Jem
Quote: "There is a theory which states that if ever, for any reason, anyone discovers what exactly the Universe is for and why it is here it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another that states that this has already happened.”... Douglas Adams 1952 - 2001
Hi Graham,
The Windows screensaver analogy is a good one, as the effect is close to that of the "beziers" option. I had not planned to use a lumia wheel as a scan-through effect, as I will probably just pick off a beam to shoot it through a wheel attached to a DC gearmotor (Hankscraft, escap or other small gearmotors).
Attached is a photo of some hardware I purchased awhile back from dsli_jon (nice find - thanks Jon!). This uses a rotary solenoid to lower the wheel into the beam/scanner path. The motor is a modified RC servo - about 1 volt DC works well. This is what I plan to use for any scan-through effects off of my scanners.
Greg
ARGH! Greg! So you're the one that got the last of dsli_jon's rotary actuators! Crap. I was hoping to pick one up from him, but he was sold out. Now I know why.
Can't blame you though. Those things are PERFECT for the job.
I've actually got several of the Ledex rotary solenoids though, plus I have a pair of very slow (1/2 RPM) motors that I can use to turn the wheel with. So in theory I've got everything I need to build my own. I just need to machine something close to that mount in the picture you posted... (That's going to be the hard part!)
Be sure to post some pictures when you get that thing set up with your projector!
Adam
Senior Member
It's ok Jem...I'm used to it after the DAC saga. Still havent rebuilt it yet......It sits next to the projector like it's little cousin.
Greg, erm....can I have that please? hehe only joking. Cool looking peice of kit. Looks perfect....It removes the need to use extra mirros for the other path ways...just rais it in to the ( scanned ) beam and hey presto.
I've got an acuator which I got form Fluff at the UKLEM. I asked numerouse people there including Jem and another helpful guy (sorry I cant remember your tag or name) I was asking you guys weather I could use it with the FB3 but there was a resounding no from you all. Where can I get soldnoides from?
Adam,
Sorry about that
Graham,
Keep checking with electronic surplus suppliers for rotary solenoids. You may also see these on fleabay on occasion. Many times these can be found as new surplus for less than $5 or $10 each (vs. $100+ new).
Greg
Graham;
If you bought one of the ST-8 actuators from fluff, they will work OK for moving a small mirror into the beam path, or as a beam block (shutter). They don't develop enough torque to move a heavy arm with a motor and a lumina wheel attached to it though. For that you'll want a Ledex rotary solenoid like you see in Greg's picture. (They develop a lot more torque.)
And yeah, there's no easy way to trigger a solenoid or other TTL device with the FB3. It's not designed for TTL output. (It does have TTL input, however.) So you'll have to run a separate wire to trigger the lumina wheel to move into place in your projector.
But if all you want to use the ST-8 actuator for is a shutter, then you can connect it to the shutter pin on your ILDA connector (pin 13) and it will work just fine. There's nothing about the FB3 that prevents you from using the ST-8 actuator as a shutter.
You'll need to supply a minimum of +10 volts to the terminal on the right. (+12 is design, but it will actually take up to +24 volts without damage.) The middle terminal is ground, and the left terminal is the signal to open (connects to pin 13 on the ILDA connector). It only needs about +3 volts to trigger, but it will also take up to +24 volts on the signal line without harm.
I'm using one in my projector right now as a shutter, and it works great!
Greg:
No problem dude. I was just yanking your chain a bit. I've got my lumina wheel mounted on a motor shaft, and I'm putting together a little stand to hold it in front of my projector for now. (No room to mount it internally anyway.) I should have it going in time for FLEM Mark II.
Adam
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