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Thread: wanted 100mw 532nm

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default wanted 100mw 532nm

    anyone got an analog 100mw green for sale
    apparently mines now full of jelly beans

  2. #2
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    Chris
    do you know if you existing module has TEC cooling or passive cooling? Though Jelly beaning will still happen with TEC (activley) cooled devices this should be much less than with a passive cooled module. Its down to how well the driver and cooling can cope with the laser acting in a transient state as its blanked. You may need to look for one and specify that it should be TEC cooled.

    Rob

    I hate Jelly beans - except the orange ones - they are yummy.
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
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  3. #3
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    Default wanted

    it is tec and if think if from a cheap china manufacture that have a lot of that trouble
    you may have read of my troubles here have a look at the pic on the end your comments are very welcome http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ead.php?t=4256

    as soon as i modulate it it starts switching modes and has a fat arse beam thats crap and has bad bad divergence
    desperate to replace and play with my new fb3

  4. #4
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    Chris
    You say its TEC cooled but driven by Robins Die4 drive....does this mean you have removed the connection to the original diode driver leaving the TEC control in place? Did you set the diode up to run with the same current from the die4 as it had from original driver?
    If you are running it higher you may need to tweak the cooling - this may not get rid of you problem but it may reduce it until you source a better laser or it may satisfy what you want.
    If you have a scope - or access to one - you can use it to look at the noise on the laser output. Its the noise that shows up as the Jelly Beans. The way I look at this is as follows.

    I have a really cheezy analogue multimeter that cost me about 1.50. Permanently attached to it on the end of some wires is a small PCB with a large area photo diode on that is connected to the wires (a small area one will work but you have a smaller target - you could probaly source this cheap free or second hand). The meter is set to either resistance or mA ranges - I twiddle with the ranges til I get it to register without pegging the meter. I use this for a quick and easy peak indication when tuning the alignment of my big whitelight, but I also use it to see the noise on dpss. I prop the sensor up (using blue tac (other poster putty is available)) so that the beam hits the PD. The raw beam is often too much and saturates the PD so the ghost reflection from a dichro is good. Then with a scope across the PD you will see the noise as the trace will not be straight but fuzzy. I observe this while the laser is modulated and tune the diode current and temp until the noise is minimum and the line is at its highest. Obviously you cant predict how the laser will be used you will just have to compromise and reach a sweet spot. You may find that backing off the current will allow a more consistent higher output - its not surprising when you think about it that this could work but many people would not expect it.
    Play around with it and you may just get results but tune the temp in small steps and allow time for it to settle before twiddling again.

    Rob

    ps i nicknameed my analogue meter 'peaky meter'
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  5. #5
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    Default wanted

    yes i did leave tec control in place and did drive at the right current
    but its back on the original driver now and still playing up, this is common wth this brand so i am told works ok with ttl but does not like the pwm/ttl of the fb3 put it on an alphalite and it behaves fairly well and no trouble at all cw so i just need to find an analog green at a reasonable or borrow one to see if its the fb3 playing up but i dont think it fb3 because the red works fine on the rgb blanking signals just fine just not that bright but both lasers are dimmer on the fb3 compared to the alphalite

  6. #6
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    Default

    The reason they were brighter on Alpha was because of the way it blanks - or more accurately it doesnt! If you draw a circle in a single colour and output it to the FB you will see that ther will be a gap at one side - this is because the laser is blanked off at the begining of the frame is turned on as the frame is drawn and turned off at the end of the frame. Alpahalite does not do this - during the drawing of a circle it would leave the laser on all the time until it reaches a part of the frame that needs blanking or it moves to a new frame or scene. Because of this the laser will appear brighter on some frames. Its because its on all the time and not off for a short period at the start and end of the frame. This will help your green as it will be in a stable and not a transient state.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  7. #7
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    Default

    I have a 100mw CNI green sitting here gathering dust - Its been gathering dust for the past 9 months or so, so its pretty much out of warranty, but its tested and good

    Make me an offer
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    Lasershowparts- Laser Parts at great prices
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