My very first laser project, 2W Viasho DPSS 532

[Atlewee]

I have now started thinking of the enclosure.
I got a 10mm aluminium baseplate form a friend. 50x30cm. will make this smaller.

The question:
Is there any components that should be far from eachother?
Thinking about noise/heat.
Is there a layout that is pretty much standard or do everyone come up with theire own?
Pictures of your enclosure inside/outside is much appreciated!

Regards,
Atle

[Atlewee]

Today I got the DT40pro scanners.
It was very exciting opening the package.
I thougt it would be very easy to install, but I have some questions.

First of all, all components was alot smaller than I imaged.

Here is a picture of the box that arrived in good condition:


Gift box containing DT40Pro:




The powersupply:
(I have put the measurements on the components so that people that are planning the DT40pro they can start to think about the layout)



The scanner amps:
(very tiny! the only thing I could find to show the size was an ugly old apple)




And finally the galvos:



All parts together:




The fuses included, is that spare fuses for the scanner amps?




I also started thinking about the layout. have come up with two versions.
Please give me some feedback for improvements. I'm sure there is alot that could be done way better =) this is my first project.

Layout 1:




Layout 2:



I see that some guys have have huge cooling finns on the scanner amps, do I need this? Or is it sufficient to bolt them onto the 10mm aluminium baseplate?

I'm now waiting for the laser to arrive, Frank has sent the unit so it should be here soon. =) looking forward to that!
Please comment if you have any idea to make this better.


Regards,
Atle

[Banthai]

the only thing i see that you need is a safety shutter between the laser and the scanners ( with a flag that can handle 2W ) this is connected to the interlock pins via the ilda connector and to a remote emergency stop / keyswitch box

aall the best ... Karl

like this one .....

[Atlewee]

the only thing i see that you need is a safety shutter between the laser and the scanners ( with a flag that can handle 2W ) this is connected to the interlock pins via the ilda connector and to a remote emergency stop / keyswitch box

Thats a nice interlock box! =)

I was thinking of a key switch at the back of the projector.
And for the interlock:
Just an emergency stop button on a small box connected to the scanner with an XLR connector/cable.
This emergency stop button will be a normally closed contact holding the relay that is powering the laser head.
So if the interlock cable is disconnected, faulty or you press the emergency stop button the laser will loose its power.

Is that not ok?

[Pitts]

Hi

That looks a nice layout.

My DT-40 amps run pretty cool so those big heatsinks I have on mine are probably not necessary.

Just keep an eye on how you might avoid the fan blowing dust onto your galvo mirrors over time. The fan on the Viasho also has to be considered for this I think I might put a little baffle over the beam / galvo area.

I notice that your nice new shiny DT-40 Pros have already had the hardware mod done that Bill advised Jian about. So you should be OK.
May just have to tweek if all is not well when you get going.
There is a very good article on this galvo tweeking here on PL by Adam (Buffo) just do a search it will show up.

Cheers

Ray
NZ

[Atlewee]

I see other images of the DT40Pro on this forum and on the website.
On the scanner amps there are some potmeters on a black connector.
I don't have this potmeters on my amps, what are they for? should they be there?



I found the solution, but will let this post stay, in case anyone else is wondering about the same thing.
Answer here: http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ight=dt40+pots

[buffo]

Hi Atewee!

Looks like you're on your way to a great projector. Only thing I would suggest is that you consider moving your scanner amps... It's going to be difficult to get at the pots to adjust your tuning if you install them front-to-back like you showed in your picture above. It would be better to mound them side-by-side so you can get a small screwdriver in there to adjust those pots.

As for heat, mounting them vertically like that to a plate of aluminum should be good enough to keep them cool. I don't have a fan on my scanner amps, and they're fine.

Yeah, it looks like Jian has modified the DT-40 pro scanner amps and removed the notch filter. That's good news, as it makes them a lot easier to tune. (I had my amps modified by Bill Benner at Pangolin, so I don't have the notch filter either.)

Adam

[Atlewee]

Hi Atewee!

Looks like you're on your way to a great projector. Only thing I would suggest is that you consider moving your scanner amps... It's going to be difficult to get at the pots to adjust your tuning if you install them front-to-back like you showed in your picture above. It would be better to mound them side-by-side so you can get a small screwdriver in there to adjust those pots.

Adam

Thank you.
Thats a great tip! I did not think about access to the pots!
That would have been very unpractical.
The heat distribution to the baseplate will also be better that way.
Thank you again!

[FourDee]

In both your layouts, the USB connector is not accessible from the outside. Maybe you could even consider using your FB3 as a standalone dac. That way, if you ( some day ) build another projector, you would only need one.

[Atlewee]

In both your layouts, the USB connector is not accessible from the outside. Maybe you could even consider using your FB3 as a standalone dac. That way, if you ( some day ) build another projector, you would only need one.

Thankyou for the advice.
I'm thinking of one of these for the USB connection:


If I build another projector I want to be able to control both at the same time, so there will be one FB3 board inside each projector
This will be a "smart projector", I will actually skip the 25pin ILDA plug on the enclosure.
The main use for this projector is at club/disco beamshow
Main control will be DMX, and USB for uploading frames and stuff to the memory card.
If I need more advanced control, I will just use the USB connection.