are you show ready?

[LaserGuy216]

is your projector 100% ilda compliant?

I have one key switch on the back that is in series with two cover switches and also with a connector on the rear of the projector for a keyed kill switch.....or the "OHH SHIT BUTTON"..... also Im working on the shutter relay..... and I have Work & Power LEDs..... did I forget anything?

[loopee]

I think you‘ll also need to include a laser emission light wired of the key switch, to indicate when the laser is on

And if you have a remote kill switch with a key switch that too should have a laser emission light

Refer to http://www.laserist.org/files/ILDA%20safety7b.pdf

[LaserGuy216]

Ahh Yes, I have a Run or Work (Green) LED & System Power (Red) LED.

So, what all do you have for your projector? are all your bases covered?

[Things]

Why bother with a laser emission indicator, surely the lasers provide enough of a visible warning >

Hahah just kidding, I am all for safety.

so far my scanner only has a keyswitch and a 5 second delay on the laser when the scanner is activated.

[buffo]

Why bother with a laser emission indicator

Because in the US, the CDRH requires it, that's why.

Also, remember that you need to impliment the interlock loop in the ILDA cable. That is, if you disconnect the ILDA cable, everything needs to stop. And you don't want to put 110V down the cable. Best to use a low voltage signal and a transistor.

Also, your interlock needs to "latch" open. That is, if you hit the kill switch, or someone opens the cover, or you unplug the ILDA cable, or you turn off the keyswitch - everything goes off and *stays off* until you clear all the interlock conditions and switches and *then* press the run/reset button. Don't want it starting up all on it's own, ya know...

My projector is wired with a remote kill switch and a local one. Both are normally-closed, push to open switches. I also have two "Run" buttons, one on the projector and one on the remote. They are nomally-open, push to close switches. Finally, I have two keyswitches - again, one on the projector and one on the remote box. All controls are redundant and function in parallel. Remove the ILDA cable and the projector quits. Remove the interlock cable and the projector quits. Hit either kill switch and the projector quits. Turn off either keyswitch and the projector quits.

I don't have case intrusion switches mounted yet, but that's the next step. (Not technically required for CDRH variance if you are both the builder and the operator, since you're protecting yourself, which is redundant, but I want it anyway.)

Once any interlock condition (or kill switch, or keyswitch) has killed the projector, all interlocks need to be cleared and all keyswitches need to be in the ON position, then one of the run switches needs to be pressed to reset the projector. If all interlocks are clear, it starts a count-down timer before powering up the lasers. Of course, there's an emission light too. (Actually a pair of them. One lights when the power-on cycle countdown begins, the other lights up when the lasers power up.)

Adam

[LaserGuy216]

Well I think that I have all that I need for this setup, as you can see I have a key switch for the rear of my prjector, and a case switch for the top cover of my projector, along with the remote "OHHH SHIT BUTTON" or keyed emergency stop button. all are wired in series so that if anyone of the 3 should be pushed, No Lase.....

I still need to figure out a remote run LED or laser emission indicator for my keyed stop button, should be simple. Now on the rear of the projector I do have a Main Power LED Red & a Work or Run or laser emission indicator Green LED.

Now for my shutter I'll be using FourDee's design http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...hlight=shutter this is a real simple & nice.

As it goes for a delay circuit, when I start up my rig it takes 10 seconds to warm up and lase, and if you trip any one of the 3 interlocks it takes 5-10 seconds to start lasing.....and this is all done with the dmx controller board that came with my galvos...

Why bother with safety, I want to make MONEY!!!! and put on quality shows thatdo not put anyones eyes or anything in danger.....

[dsli_jon]

Hey LaserGuy -

I think you‘ll also need to include a laser emission light

Don't forget that the 'Laser Emission' light needs to be #1, in the same side as your OUTPUT APERTURE / window - this is so, (according to CDRH-regs) you have 'visual warning' at the 'business-end' - most-of the 'import' projectors out-there put the 'laser emission' light in the BACK, where the keysw. / ILDA / DMX connectors, etc are - this will *guaranteed* get you 'written-up', IF you were ever to get inspected at a gig, by an astute CDRH-guy 'in the field'... it can be a 'nasty-little surprize'... (ask me how I learned this..) ;

...and #2, TECHNICALLY, the 'emission indicator' must be the OPPOSITE color of your 'dominant wavelength' laser-line - the thinking is, say you're running a 532-only projector, well, if you use 'safety goggles' (and yeah, yet another 'on-site detail' that an 'anal' inspector might write-up on - just ask anyone doing gigs in AZ, who knows the infamous J. Lamb (now retired...) ...for 532, well, you're prolly not gonna see a 'Green LED' emiss. indicator too-well, with goggles on, right? So, it should-be RED, ORANGE or WHITE, in that-case...

But for RGB Projectors, a White LED should have-you covered (even-though if you 'follow the CDRH-logic through', on this, how do you still SEE a white emiss. indicator, if your OD goggles are set to cut whitelight down-to 'safe' levels...would need an awfully-bright white LED, that would likely be quite an 'eyesore' at a gig...)... But then again, there is the 'letter of the law' and the 'spirit of the law', and
I am not a CDRH inspector , so proceed accordingly, dude... The indicator positioning, near the output-window, is definitely a 'weightier item', to get right, IMO...

PS - just saw your post... I will assume you already know that the keysw. must also-be of the type that the key is NON-REMOVEABLE when ON... if not, 'word to the wise'... Gotta love that CDRH, eh, buddy?!

Anyhoo, just a 'couple pennies' fer ya...
j

[LaserGuy216]

Hellz Yeah, good looking out dsli jon. I'll get on that bright white led, you know I would of never thought of that ........ and ohh yeah the keyed switch of the rear is the type that the key can not be taken out if its on, and the stop or kll switch if pushed needs a key inorder to be in the Run or Work mode..this is only is you hit the emergency stop button that it needs to be unlocked inorder to make the circuit complete and then its lase time.

[dsli_jon]

Hey Brother....

Hellz Yeah, good looking out dsli jon. I'll get on that bright white led, you know I would of never thought of that ....

Cool... Glad this helped... And you know, if once you put one in front, near the business-end', then, it's no problem to have another (whatever color you prefer) in the BACK, where YOU can see what is going on... We usually use RED for AC / Scan-sys power, and Green or Blue (yes, in the BACK ) for Emiss. / DMX, etc. You can also get 'fancy' and use a relay for 'fault' LEDs, (like ORANGE if something goes 'overtemp', etc...) Fun, fun, fun...

PS - where did you get that E-Stop? Pretty sexy-lookin'...

ciao
j

[LaserGuy216]

PS - where did you get that E-Stop? Pretty sexy-lookin'...

ciao
j

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-EMERGENCY-ST...3A1%7C294%3A50

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